People often end up paying more for tires than they need to for one simple reason: They wait until they're in desperate need of tires before they begin shopping for them.
Just as people in a hurry to buy a new car because their old one conked out unexpectedly often make a hasty (and costly) purchase, so it is with buying tires when the primary object is to get it done -- not necessarily get the best deal.
The good news is that tires wear gradually -- so the only real excuse for being in a hurry to buy new ones is an unanticipated emergency, such as a severe puncture or sidewall damage that renders a tire beyond repair.
Emergency situations aside, it's easy to anticipate the need to replace tires months before it becomes necessary to do so for safety's sake. Provided one takes the time to do a period check of their physical condition.
A tire is considered worn beyond safe limits when one or more of the grooves in the tread reaches 2/32 of an inch deep. Most modern radial tires have "wear markers" -- horizontal strips that become visually apparent as the tread wears down to the 2/32 of an inch mark. You can also measure tread depth with a tread-depth gauge -- or simply take a penny and insert it in each groove, with Lincoln's head facing down. If you can see the top of Abe's head in any of the grooves, the tire should be replaced. (Any bulges in the sidewall, rips or tears are cause for immediate replacement. Avoid driving the vehicle, if possible -- and if you must drive it, keep your speed down. Sidewall bulges and other signs of major deterioration/damage could foretell an imminent -- and sudden -- catastrophic failure of the tire.)
By checking the tires' condition every 4-6 months or so, you'll know well in advance when it's time to begin shopping for new ones. And that will give you plenty of time to check with local merchants and take advantage of sales -- including online sales offered by retailers who may be able to significantly undercut the costs of a local "storefront" merchant.
The key point is you're not desperate to get the tires "today" -- so it doesn't matter if the sale isn't effective until the end of the month, or if it takes a week or so for the tires to be shipped to you and then a another couple of days to take them to a shop for mounting.
It's also ok to buy replacement tires a couple of months before you need them, so long as they are stored properly (see the manufacturer's recommendations or ask the tire seller about this).
Monday, January 29, 2007
Friday, January 26, 2007
Never touch your gas cap again!
Now here is an ingenious idea that just might make refueling easier.Stant's new InStant Fill™ fuel cap makes refueling easier. It’s easy to install and features a convenient trap door mechanism that accommodates the gas nozzle, eliminating the hassle of removing and replacing the cap when refueling. It also meets onboard diagnostic (OBD) emission specifications.
InStant Fill™ caps are designed to appeal to the following consumers:
* Elderly or arthritic customers: With no cap to twist, a source of discomfort is eliminated for those with arthritis in fingers, hands or wrists.
* Clean-hands customers: There is no dirty, smelly gas cap to touch, so hands will not smell of gasoline after refueling.
* Timesavers: Pushing the gas nozzle through the trap door is quicker than removing and replacing a standard cap.
* Race fans: Fill up like NASCAR does during a pit stop.
* Customers that have experienced a lost cap: There is no chance to leave the cap on the gas pump and drive away, if you do not need to remove it to refuel.
* Environmentally conscious customers: Since the cap is never removed during the refueling process, fewer gasoline fumes will evaporate into the atmosphere.
Check the Stant web site http://stant.com/part_locator/index.cfm?go=stant_part_locator
to see if the InStant Fill™ Caps are availiable for your vehicle.
Monday, January 22, 2007
Traffic Stop Do's and Don'ts
Once you see the flashing red lights in your rearview mirror, there's not much you can do about getting stopped. But how you handle being stopped can sometimes mean the difference between a warning and a ticket -- or at the very least, a better (or worse) experience in court.
The Do's:
* Immediately acknowledge the officer by slowing your vehicle and signaling your intention to pull over. Try to pull as far off the road (and away from traffic) as possible. By making the stop itself less dangerous and stressful for the officer, you have set the stage for a civil interaction.
* Once you're pulled over, turn off your engine and put your hazard flashers on -- so the officer knows you aren't thinking of running. (If you're on a motorcycle, remove your helmet as soon as you've stopped the bike.)
* If it is dark outside, turn on your vehicle's interior dome light so the officer can clearly see you; sit calmly and wait for the officer to approach the vehicle. Keep your hands visible. Even though you are just an Ordinary Joe (or Jane) and this is just a traffic stop, the officer doesn't know you or your intentions -- and it's possible you might be a violent criminal with a weapon. Your goal is to make it clear you're not.
* Answer the officer's questions in even tones and politely. But do not answer leading questions with admissions of guilt -- which will absolutely be used against you in court should you decide to contest the ticket.
* If you have any intention of contesting the ticket, do not immediately drive away once the paperwork has been signed and the officer has departed. Hopefully you keep a pen or pencil in the vehicle, along with a small notepad. Now is the time to write down every detail about the stop you can recall, while the event is still fresh in memory. Jot down things like the exact location of the stop, whether the speed limit was clearly posted, etc. Anything that may be relevant to a possible defense. The officer made notes; you should, too.
The Don'ts:
* Don't stop your vehicle in the middle of a busy road; impeding the flow of traffic won't win you any points for driving skill with the officer -- and he won't appreciate your making him have to get out and walk up to your vehicle with other cars whizzing past just feet away.
* Don't attempt to get out of your vehicle (unless the officer ask you to do so). Never approach the officer or his vehicle. This is a good way to get shot; at minimum, it will raise tensions -- just the opposite of what you want.
* Don't root around for things in the glovebox or under the seats -- even if all you are looking for is your insurance and registration paperwork.
* Do not be argumentative. Save it for court. In fact, if you intend to contest the ticket, it is in your best interests to give the impression that you are the type of person who will just mail in the fine. Be forgettable. At the least, you'll likely find the cop barely remembers you personally when your trail date arrives -- and unless you've given him a reason to personally dislike you, he probably won't object to a request that the charge be reduced (for example, from a moving violation with "points" to a non-moving violation that only carries a fine).
The Do's:
* Immediately acknowledge the officer by slowing your vehicle and signaling your intention to pull over. Try to pull as far off the road (and away from traffic) as possible. By making the stop itself less dangerous and stressful for the officer, you have set the stage for a civil interaction.
* Once you're pulled over, turn off your engine and put your hazard flashers on -- so the officer knows you aren't thinking of running. (If you're on a motorcycle, remove your helmet as soon as you've stopped the bike.)
* If it is dark outside, turn on your vehicle's interior dome light so the officer can clearly see you; sit calmly and wait for the officer to approach the vehicle. Keep your hands visible. Even though you are just an Ordinary Joe (or Jane) and this is just a traffic stop, the officer doesn't know you or your intentions -- and it's possible you might be a violent criminal with a weapon. Your goal is to make it clear you're not.
* Answer the officer's questions in even tones and politely. But do not answer leading questions with admissions of guilt -- which will absolutely be used against you in court should you decide to contest the ticket.
* If you have any intention of contesting the ticket, do not immediately drive away once the paperwork has been signed and the officer has departed. Hopefully you keep a pen or pencil in the vehicle, along with a small notepad. Now is the time to write down every detail about the stop you can recall, while the event is still fresh in memory. Jot down things like the exact location of the stop, whether the speed limit was clearly posted, etc. Anything that may be relevant to a possible defense. The officer made notes; you should, too.
The Don'ts:
* Don't stop your vehicle in the middle of a busy road; impeding the flow of traffic won't win you any points for driving skill with the officer -- and he won't appreciate your making him have to get out and walk up to your vehicle with other cars whizzing past just feet away.
* Don't attempt to get out of your vehicle (unless the officer ask you to do so). Never approach the officer or his vehicle. This is a good way to get shot; at minimum, it will raise tensions -- just the opposite of what you want.
* Don't root around for things in the glovebox or under the seats -- even if all you are looking for is your insurance and registration paperwork.
* Do not be argumentative. Save it for court. In fact, if you intend to contest the ticket, it is in your best interests to give the impression that you are the type of person who will just mail in the fine. Be forgettable. At the least, you'll likely find the cop barely remembers you personally when your trail date arrives -- and unless you've given him a reason to personally dislike you, he probably won't object to a request that the charge be reduced (for example, from a moving violation with "points" to a non-moving violation that only carries a fine).
Thursday, January 18, 2007
Test for Aged Tires Gains Traction
DIAMOND BAR, CA (Jan. 10, 2007) - Officials at the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) believe that they have developed a test for determining the durability of aged tires, according to a report from the Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA).The test involves subjecting a tire to high temperatures (up to 150?F) for eight to 10 weeks in a high oxygen environment. The test was given a stamp of approval by the Aged Tire Durability Task Group, a 33-member task force that includes representatives for tire makers, the auto industry and safety groups.
The task group was formed in 2002 to establish a tire durability test.The group also endorsed its own, separate durability test that would run tires at about 75 miles an hour for more than 30 hours. Read the full article at.. http://www.motorage.com/motorage/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=398149
Monday, January 15, 2007
Winter Weather Driving Tips
Just a few square inches of rubber at each of your car's four corners is all that keeps you on the road. It's pretty amazing when you think about it. Several thousand pounds of steel, plastic, glass and you -- all kept under control by four small "contact patches" of tire tread.
Now imagine what happens when you drive over slick, ice-covered surfaces. On a curve, the car will try to keep on going straight ahead -- and right off the road. The inertia keeps it going in that direction -- and the lack of traction prevents you from being able to make corrections.
If you are on a straight stretch that's covered with black ice and you tap the brakes (even if you have ABS) sudden weight transfer could cause the car to go into a sidewise slide. Often, the only thing that will stop it is an impact with another car -- or a telephone pole.
It's best to avoid driving in icy conditions, of course -- but sometimes we can't help being caught in a storm. So here are some practical driving tips to help avoid getting into an accident when the weather turns wicked:
* Reduce speed. Even if you have four-wheel-drive or all-wheel-drive, your vehicle's ability to stop/slow down on ice and snow is no better than any other car's. And you'll need more room to come to a stop on wet/snow/ice-slicked roads than you would on dry pavement. By dropping your speed, you also reduce the amount of time/space you'll need to safely come to a complete stop -- and significantly increase your odds of avoiding an accident.
* In winter weather, double or triple your following distance between yourself and the vehicle ahead of you. This will give you more time to slow down -- and more time to consider worst-case alternatives (such as steering into a ditch rather than piling into the car ahead).
* Avoid oversteering or "jerky" movements of the wheel. Change directions gradually and smoothly. Abrupt lane changes or sudden steering inputs can l throw the weight of the car around and that could be just enough to overcome whatever little traction you've got -- resulting in a spin-out or slide.
*If you need to stop quickly, depress the brake pedal gradually and smoothly (on cars without anti-lock brakes). If you sense the wheels about to lock up, back off the pedal and downshift the transmission into a lower gear; the "engine braking" effect will help slow the car without causing the wheels to lock-up. This works with both manual and automatic transmissions. With a manual, shift to the next lowest gear; with an automatic, move the shift lever from "Drive" to the next lowest position.
* If you have ABS, push the brake pedal all the way down for maximum braking force -- and do not let up. The ABS will prevent the wheels from locking up and you will still be able to steer the car. Make sure you know whether your vehicle has ABS -- and brake accordingly.
* If you don't have ABS and the brakes begin to lock, the car will often go into a slide; this is especially dangerous, because once you've lost control of the car, recovering control is often difficult, even for a very good driver with special training. For novice/average skill drivers, if a serious skid doesn't result in an accident, it's usually just a matter of being lucky. If your car does not have ABS and you feel the wheels locking up, lift off the brake pedal immediately. In addition to preventing (or at least lessening) the skid, you will recover the ability to steer the car -- which you'd have lost if you kept your foot down and the wheels remained locked up.
On ABS-equipped vehicles, meanwhile, the thing to do is push the pedal to the floor and hold it there; the ABS system will automatically prevent the wheels from locking up and the vehicle should therefore not go into a dangerous skid. Make sure you know for sure what kind of braking system your car or truck has before you need to know!
*Use momentum to your advantage. In other words, keep moving -- if it is safe to do so. While it's important to obey traffic laws, sometimes common sense overrides rigid adherence to rules. For example, if you come to a stop sign at the top of a hill with several cars coming up behind you, it's not necessarily the smart move to come to a complete stop and risk either getting stuck or, worse, sliding back down the hill and hitting the cars behind you. Assuming you can clearly see the intersection and there are no other cars attempting to come through, a "rolling stop" in such circumstances might be saferthan risking the loss of your traction and forward momentum.
* When a rear wheel drive car loses traction, typically the back end of the car will start to "fishtail." If this happens, back off the gas and attempt to regain control by steering in the direction of the skid. Often, just backing off the gas will cause the car to stop fishtailing -- and the tail will snap back into line. Avoid the temptation to hit the brakes in a skid; this will only make it worse. Gently steer your way out of it -- and try not to panic.
* Front-wheel-drive cars are usually better in the snow and ice than rear-drive cars because all the weight of the engine and transmission are on top of the drive wheels, which gives better traction and thus the car is less apt to spin-out than a rear-drive car. On the other hand, if a bad spin happens, the front-drive car is also a bit more tricky to recover precisely because most of the weight is on one end of the car rather than more equally distributed front-to-rear.
Some hints, tricks and suggestions:
*Put something heavy (a couple of 50-lb. bags of sand, for example) in the trunk of rear wheel drive cars (and 2WD trucks and SUVs) during winter months. The added weight on the drive wheels will improve traction -- and if you have sand in the trunk, you can use it to free yourself by spreading some on an ice-covered street.
*Make sure you have decent tires. "Yul Brynners" (bald tires) or high performance summer tires (which are almost as bad as baldies in snow and ice) should be avoided. All-season tires are fine, but for maximum grip (if you live in a part of the country with serious winter weather), the small hassle of switching over to specific-use snow tires is a smart move. A set of four snow tires is a whole lot cheaper than a $5,000 body shop bill -- and the jacked-up insurance premiums that go with that.
* If it's really bad outside, take the bus/train (or bum a ride) if you drive any kind of sports car. The combination of performance tires and low ground clearance that typifies these specialty cars and makes them so fun to drive on dry pavement is exactly what makes them the worst things to be in when it snows or if there is ice on the ground.
And if the worst happens and you find yourself in a skid that you can't control or steer out of, try to plan your impact to minimize the damage to yourself, others and your vehicle (in that order). For example, you may have enough time and enough control left to choose what you will hit. If possible, go for something with "give" -- such as a snowbank or grassy ditch. And try and hit it sideways, rather than head-on. You can use small trees and bushes to slow your vehicle down. At this point, don't worry so much about body damage to the car. Worry about damage to your own body.
The goal is to avoid a full-force impact with a stationary object, such as a big tree, utility pole or something like that.
And: It's always better to be in a single car accident involving just your vehicle than it is a multi-car accident. There's less total damage this way -- and you don't have to deal with the guilt of causing personal injury to someone else.
The best thing to do -- if you have an understanding boss -- is just stay home and sleep the day away.
Now imagine what happens when you drive over slick, ice-covered surfaces. On a curve, the car will try to keep on going straight ahead -- and right off the road. The inertia keeps it going in that direction -- and the lack of traction prevents you from being able to make corrections.
If you are on a straight stretch that's covered with black ice and you tap the brakes (even if you have ABS) sudden weight transfer could cause the car to go into a sidewise slide. Often, the only thing that will stop it is an impact with another car -- or a telephone pole.
It's best to avoid driving in icy conditions, of course -- but sometimes we can't help being caught in a storm. So here are some practical driving tips to help avoid getting into an accident when the weather turns wicked:
* Reduce speed. Even if you have four-wheel-drive or all-wheel-drive, your vehicle's ability to stop/slow down on ice and snow is no better than any other car's. And you'll need more room to come to a stop on wet/snow/ice-slicked roads than you would on dry pavement. By dropping your speed, you also reduce the amount of time/space you'll need to safely come to a complete stop -- and significantly increase your odds of avoiding an accident.
* In winter weather, double or triple your following distance between yourself and the vehicle ahead of you. This will give you more time to slow down -- and more time to consider worst-case alternatives (such as steering into a ditch rather than piling into the car ahead).
* Avoid oversteering or "jerky" movements of the wheel. Change directions gradually and smoothly. Abrupt lane changes or sudden steering inputs can l throw the weight of the car around and that could be just enough to overcome whatever little traction you've got -- resulting in a spin-out or slide.
*If you need to stop quickly, depress the brake pedal gradually and smoothly (on cars without anti-lock brakes). If you sense the wheels about to lock up, back off the pedal and downshift the transmission into a lower gear; the "engine braking" effect will help slow the car without causing the wheels to lock-up. This works with both manual and automatic transmissions. With a manual, shift to the next lowest gear; with an automatic, move the shift lever from "Drive" to the next lowest position.
* If you have ABS, push the brake pedal all the way down for maximum braking force -- and do not let up. The ABS will prevent the wheels from locking up and you will still be able to steer the car. Make sure you know whether your vehicle has ABS -- and brake accordingly.
* If you don't have ABS and the brakes begin to lock, the car will often go into a slide; this is especially dangerous, because once you've lost control of the car, recovering control is often difficult, even for a very good driver with special training. For novice/average skill drivers, if a serious skid doesn't result in an accident, it's usually just a matter of being lucky. If your car does not have ABS and you feel the wheels locking up, lift off the brake pedal immediately. In addition to preventing (or at least lessening) the skid, you will recover the ability to steer the car -- which you'd have lost if you kept your foot down and the wheels remained locked up.
On ABS-equipped vehicles, meanwhile, the thing to do is push the pedal to the floor and hold it there; the ABS system will automatically prevent the wheels from locking up and the vehicle should therefore not go into a dangerous skid. Make sure you know for sure what kind of braking system your car or truck has before you need to know!
*Use momentum to your advantage. In other words, keep moving -- if it is safe to do so. While it's important to obey traffic laws, sometimes common sense overrides rigid adherence to rules. For example, if you come to a stop sign at the top of a hill with several cars coming up behind you, it's not necessarily the smart move to come to a complete stop and risk either getting stuck or, worse, sliding back down the hill and hitting the cars behind you. Assuming you can clearly see the intersection and there are no other cars attempting to come through, a "rolling stop" in such circumstances might be saferthan risking the loss of your traction and forward momentum.
* When a rear wheel drive car loses traction, typically the back end of the car will start to "fishtail." If this happens, back off the gas and attempt to regain control by steering in the direction of the skid. Often, just backing off the gas will cause the car to stop fishtailing -- and the tail will snap back into line. Avoid the temptation to hit the brakes in a skid; this will only make it worse. Gently steer your way out of it -- and try not to panic.
* Front-wheel-drive cars are usually better in the snow and ice than rear-drive cars because all the weight of the engine and transmission are on top of the drive wheels, which gives better traction and thus the car is less apt to spin-out than a rear-drive car. On the other hand, if a bad spin happens, the front-drive car is also a bit more tricky to recover precisely because most of the weight is on one end of the car rather than more equally distributed front-to-rear.
Some hints, tricks and suggestions:
*Put something heavy (a couple of 50-lb. bags of sand, for example) in the trunk of rear wheel drive cars (and 2WD trucks and SUVs) during winter months. The added weight on the drive wheels will improve traction -- and if you have sand in the trunk, you can use it to free yourself by spreading some on an ice-covered street.
*Make sure you have decent tires. "Yul Brynners" (bald tires) or high performance summer tires (which are almost as bad as baldies in snow and ice) should be avoided. All-season tires are fine, but for maximum grip (if you live in a part of the country with serious winter weather), the small hassle of switching over to specific-use snow tires is a smart move. A set of four snow tires is a whole lot cheaper than a $5,000 body shop bill -- and the jacked-up insurance premiums that go with that.
* If it's really bad outside, take the bus/train (or bum a ride) if you drive any kind of sports car. The combination of performance tires and low ground clearance that typifies these specialty cars and makes them so fun to drive on dry pavement is exactly what makes them the worst things to be in when it snows or if there is ice on the ground.
And if the worst happens and you find yourself in a skid that you can't control or steer out of, try to plan your impact to minimize the damage to yourself, others and your vehicle (in that order). For example, you may have enough time and enough control left to choose what you will hit. If possible, go for something with "give" -- such as a snowbank or grassy ditch. And try and hit it sideways, rather than head-on. You can use small trees and bushes to slow your vehicle down. At this point, don't worry so much about body damage to the car. Worry about damage to your own body.
The goal is to avoid a full-force impact with a stationary object, such as a big tree, utility pole or something like that.
And: It's always better to be in a single car accident involving just your vehicle than it is a multi-car accident. There's less total damage this way -- and you don't have to deal with the guilt of causing personal injury to someone else.
The best thing to do -- if you have an understanding boss -- is just stay home and sleep the day away.
Thursday, January 11, 2007
New EPA mileage estimates for 2008 model year
Expect the mileage estimates published by the EPA to go down on 2008 model year vehicles, even if the vehicle itself has not changed. The percentage figures of the drops may be as high as 30 percent on some vehicles. The vehicles with the highest estimated mileage will be hit the hardest, including hybrid models such as the Toyota Prius.The changes to mileage estimates are being made to appease buyers of vehicles who are unable to match the EPA's estimates. This has been quite a topic of conversation lately, due to the proliferation of hybrid models hitting the marketplace. Numerous web boards have discussions related to actual mileage numbers that users of the vehicles are returning.
It would be good to mention here that the mileage estimates by the EPA are not the same as the Corporate Average Fuel Economy numbers used by lawmakers to enforce mileage regulations on carmakers. Also, while it is possible for drivers to achieve drastically lower numbers than the EPA estimates, it is also possible to meet or exceed them. The numbers are being changed more to reflect drivers' habits than technology problems. The old numbers reported by the EPA were not "wrong", they were real figures which are completely achievable if the vehicle is driven under the same conditions as those the vehicle was tested under. Unfortunately, few drivers drove in a matter even remotely similar to the EPA tests. So, the new numbers are ultimately a good thing for consumers, even though they may make green cars seem a little less so.
Monday, January 08, 2007
Semi-Storage Tips for Little-Used Cars
Many of us have a second car that isn't used much; maybe we keep it under a car cover in the garage or -- worse -- just let it sit there in the driveway. This is not wise -- unless your goal is to end up with a 3,000 pound pile of West Virginia lawn sculpture.
In fact, a car with higher miles that's used every day can be in better shape -- and even last longer, ultimately -- than a car that's basically left to rot. And that is exactly what happens to a vehicle that is not properly stored or properly kept-up if it's used only occasionally (less than a couple of times per month).
For example, rubber seals and gaskets in the engine will dry out, crack and eventually leak if the engine is not fired-up and run until it reaches operating temperature. Engine oil keeps them pliable. But it has to circulate to reach many of these gaskets and seals. And for it to ciruclate, the engine has to be running.
Clean, fresh engine oil is also vital to the health of internal engine parts. Normally, the oil is supplied under pressure (or by splash effect) when the engine is running -- and afterwards a thin coat will remain on these surfaces, protecting them.
However, the film of oil that protects those internal metal surfaces will eventually dissipate -- or worse, congeal into a blob of sludge. Sludge can cause sticking valves, oiling system problems and other engine maladies -- while rust can form on the insides of cylinder walls from the mositure that gets into the engine during long periods of disuse, when there is an absence of lubrication.
Old gas inside carburetors and fuel systems leaves varnish and deposits; the gas also leaks into the engine and will wash the protective film of motor oil off of internal parts and contaminate the oil in the sump (oil pan).
Grit and gunk can cause accelerated wear, even catastrophic engine failure, when you try and start the thing after months sitting idle. At minimum, it will likely cause hard starting/rough running and poor overall performance.
Corrosion can also build up in the passages of the cooling system -- with crud building-up in the engine's cooling passages, radiator, and the heater core. This will reduce the efficiency of the cooling system and could lead to overheating -- and expensive repairs.
Some automatic transmissions can be ruined (or their lives shortened) by infrequent use; the hydraulic fluid that makes them work is also a lubricant that keeps parts such as the front pump in good working order. If seals dry out or internal passages get blocked by crud accumulated from disuse, a failure can occur when the car is eventually restarted; hydraulic problems/lack of proper oil circulation can ruin an automatic transmission very quickly.
Moisture will eventually ruin brake parts. The fluid gets contaminated and the rubber lines begin to dry rot -- or rot from the inside out. Rubber seals at calipers and wheel cylinders wear out and rust can form on disc brake rotors.
To avoid all this, you must do one of two things -- either prepare the car properly for long-term storage -- or operate the car for about half an hour or so at least twice a month.
"Operate" meaning actually drive it -- not just running the engine at idle while the car sits just there. If you don't actually drive the car, gear oil doesn't circulate in the axle and transmission (manual-equipped cars), the brake rotors and drums don't turn and the engine -- when it isn't running at more than idle speed -- isn't getting the same workout it would if you actually drove the thing.
Some people don't realize it, but simply starting the car and letting it idle is one of the absolute worst things you can do. It's especially hard on late-model, emissions-controlled vehicle because the catalytic converter and related components do not work properly until normal operating temperature has been reached. To maximize the life of these parts (as well as keep your contribution of noxious gasses to the environment at a minimum) drive the car almost immediately after you start it.
A 30-45 minute toodle will recharge the battery, circulate oil to internal seals, allow the engine to purge itself of volatile and corrosive compounds, keep the cooling system in peak shape (assuming you've kept up with maintenance of that by regularly flushing it and adding fresh anti-freeze and water), and keep the transmission/axle or transaxle (on front-drive cars) lubed.
Do this faithfully -- and adhere to a proper maintenance shedule -- and the car will last a long, long time. Fail to do it and you will have a very heavy but largely useless object d' art in your driveway.
As regards long-term storage, there are many books available on the subject (see the "transportation" area of your local book store), and it would take a separate article to detail the process. But it's definitely worth looking into if you have a car you don't plan to use for more than a couple of months at a stretch. At least, that is, if you value the car in question. For a vehicle that won't be used for six months or longer, proper storage is an absolute necessity.
Most people, however, will get by just fine with the above "twice a month" rule.
In fact, a car with higher miles that's used every day can be in better shape -- and even last longer, ultimately -- than a car that's basically left to rot. And that is exactly what happens to a vehicle that is not properly stored or properly kept-up if it's used only occasionally (less than a couple of times per month).
For example, rubber seals and gaskets in the engine will dry out, crack and eventually leak if the engine is not fired-up and run until it reaches operating temperature. Engine oil keeps them pliable. But it has to circulate to reach many of these gaskets and seals. And for it to ciruclate, the engine has to be running.
Clean, fresh engine oil is also vital to the health of internal engine parts. Normally, the oil is supplied under pressure (or by splash effect) when the engine is running -- and afterwards a thin coat will remain on these surfaces, protecting them.
However, the film of oil that protects those internal metal surfaces will eventually dissipate -- or worse, congeal into a blob of sludge. Sludge can cause sticking valves, oiling system problems and other engine maladies -- while rust can form on the insides of cylinder walls from the mositure that gets into the engine during long periods of disuse, when there is an absence of lubrication.
Old gas inside carburetors and fuel systems leaves varnish and deposits; the gas also leaks into the engine and will wash the protective film of motor oil off of internal parts and contaminate the oil in the sump (oil pan).
Grit and gunk can cause accelerated wear, even catastrophic engine failure, when you try and start the thing after months sitting idle. At minimum, it will likely cause hard starting/rough running and poor overall performance.
Corrosion can also build up in the passages of the cooling system -- with crud building-up in the engine's cooling passages, radiator, and the heater core. This will reduce the efficiency of the cooling system and could lead to overheating -- and expensive repairs.
Some automatic transmissions can be ruined (or their lives shortened) by infrequent use; the hydraulic fluid that makes them work is also a lubricant that keeps parts such as the front pump in good working order. If seals dry out or internal passages get blocked by crud accumulated from disuse, a failure can occur when the car is eventually restarted; hydraulic problems/lack of proper oil circulation can ruin an automatic transmission very quickly.
Moisture will eventually ruin brake parts. The fluid gets contaminated and the rubber lines begin to dry rot -- or rot from the inside out. Rubber seals at calipers and wheel cylinders wear out and rust can form on disc brake rotors.
To avoid all this, you must do one of two things -- either prepare the car properly for long-term storage -- or operate the car for about half an hour or so at least twice a month.
"Operate" meaning actually drive it -- not just running the engine at idle while the car sits just there. If you don't actually drive the car, gear oil doesn't circulate in the axle and transmission (manual-equipped cars), the brake rotors and drums don't turn and the engine -- when it isn't running at more than idle speed -- isn't getting the same workout it would if you actually drove the thing.
Some people don't realize it, but simply starting the car and letting it idle is one of the absolute worst things you can do. It's especially hard on late-model, emissions-controlled vehicle because the catalytic converter and related components do not work properly until normal operating temperature has been reached. To maximize the life of these parts (as well as keep your contribution of noxious gasses to the environment at a minimum) drive the car almost immediately after you start it.
A 30-45 minute toodle will recharge the battery, circulate oil to internal seals, allow the engine to purge itself of volatile and corrosive compounds, keep the cooling system in peak shape (assuming you've kept up with maintenance of that by regularly flushing it and adding fresh anti-freeze and water), and keep the transmission/axle or transaxle (on front-drive cars) lubed.
Do this faithfully -- and adhere to a proper maintenance shedule -- and the car will last a long, long time. Fail to do it and you will have a very heavy but largely useless object d' art in your driveway.
As regards long-term storage, there are many books available on the subject (see the "transportation" area of your local book store), and it would take a separate article to detail the process. But it's definitely worth looking into if you have a car you don't plan to use for more than a couple of months at a stretch. At least, that is, if you value the car in question. For a vehicle that won't be used for six months or longer, proper storage is an absolute necessity.
Most people, however, will get by just fine with the above "twice a month" rule.
Thursday, January 04, 2007
GM Fuel Sending Unit “Flipping”
Operation of a typical in-tank fuel level sending unit is based on variable resistance. As the float moves up or down according to fuel level, the resistance in the sending unit varies. This varying resistance is processed by the engine control module (ECM) and the resulting information is sent to the instrument panel cluster (IPC) for display on the fuel gauge. In the past, the sending unit was set up so that high resistance indicated high fuel level,
and low resistance indicated low fuel level.
Sulfur contaminants found in some of today's gasolines can form deposits on the sending unit, resulting in higher-than-intended resistance . The high resistance from the deposits could be misinterpreted as a high fuel level, when in fact the fuel level is low. The driver may run out of fuel, even though the fuel gauge is not indicating low or empty.
To offset this effect, engineering has begun "flipping" fuel senders, reversing the circuitry. This means that high resistance now indicates low fuel level and low resistance indicates high fuel level. So, if deposit build-up adds to sender resistance, the gauge will err in the direction of indicating less fuel than is actually in the tank.
The "flipping" process began in the 2004 model year continued through model years 2005-06. The remaining vehicles will have their fuel level sending units "flipped" for the 2007 model year:
- Cadillac CTS
- Cadillac SRX
- Cadillac STS
- Cadillac XLR
- Chevrolet Corvette
- Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
- Chevrolet Malibu, Maxx
- Pontiac Grand Prix
- Buick LaCrosse (Allure)
TIP: When diagnosing fuel sender operation, it's critical to refer to the appropriate model year information to be sure which resistance specifications apply.
Monday, January 01, 2007
The Low-Down on High Octane Gasoline
Are you tempted to buy a high-octane gasoline for your car because you want to improve its performance? If so, take note: the recommended gasoline for most cars is regular octane. In fact, in most cases, using a higher octane gasoline than your owner's manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won't make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner. Your best bet: listen to your owner's manual.
The only time you might need to switch to a higher octane level is if your car engine knocks when you use the recommended fuel. This happens to a small percentage of cars.
Unless your engine is knocking, buying higher octane gasoline is a waste of money, too. Premium gas costs .15 to .20 cents per gallon more than regular. That can add up to $100.00 or more a year in extra costs. Studies indicate that altogether, drivers may be spending hundreds of millions of dollars each year for higher-octane gas than they need.
What Are Octane Ratings?
Octane ratings measure a gasoline's ability to resist engine knock, a rattling or pinging sound that results from premature ignition of the compressed fuel-air mixture in one or more cylinders. Most gas stations offer three octane grades: regular, usually 87 octane, mid-grade, usually 89 octane and premium, usually 92 or 93. The ratings must be posted on bright yellow stickers on each gasoline pump.
What's The Right Octane Level For Your Car?
Check your owner's manual to determine the right octane level for your car. Regular octane is recommended for most cars. However, some cars with high compression engines, like sports cars and certain luxury cars, need mid-grade or premium gasoline to prevent knock.
How Can You Tell If You're Using The Right Octane Level?
Listen to your car's engine. If it doesn't knock when you use the recommended octane, you're using the right grade of gasoline.
Will Higher Octane Gasoline Clean Your Engine Better?
As a rule, high-octane gasoline does not outperform regular octane in preventing engine deposits from forming, in removing them, or in cleaning your car's engine. In fact, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency requires that all octane grades of all brands of gasoline contain engine cleaning detergent additives to protect against the build-up of harmful levels of engine deposits during the expected life of your car.
Should You Ever Switch To A Higher Octane Gasoline?
A few car engines may knock or ping, even if you use the recommended octane. If this happens, try switching to the next highest octane grade. In many cases, switching to the mid-grade or premium-grade gasoline will eliminate the knock. If the knocking or pinging continues after one or two fill-ups, you may need a tune-up or some other repair. After that work is done, go back to the lowest octane grade at which your engine runs without knocking.
Is Knocking Harmful?
Occasional light knocking or pinging won't harm your engine, and doesn't indicate a need for higher octane. But don't ignore severe knocking. A heavy or persistent knock can lead to engine damage.
Is All "Premium" Or "Regular" Gasoline The Same?
The octane rating of gasoline marked "premium" or "regular" is not consistent across the country. One state may require a minimum octane rating of 92 for all premium gasoline, while another may allow 90 octane to be called premium. To make sure you know what you're buying, check the octane rating on the yellow sticker on the gas pump instead of relying on the name "premium" or "regular."
The only time you might need to switch to a higher octane level is if your car engine knocks when you use the recommended fuel. This happens to a small percentage of cars.
Unless your engine is knocking, buying higher octane gasoline is a waste of money, too. Premium gas costs .15 to .20 cents per gallon more than regular. That can add up to $100.00 or more a year in extra costs. Studies indicate that altogether, drivers may be spending hundreds of millions of dollars each year for higher-octane gas than they need.
What Are Octane Ratings?
Octane ratings measure a gasoline's ability to resist engine knock, a rattling or pinging sound that results from premature ignition of the compressed fuel-air mixture in one or more cylinders. Most gas stations offer three octane grades: regular, usually 87 octane, mid-grade, usually 89 octane and premium, usually 92 or 93. The ratings must be posted on bright yellow stickers on each gasoline pump.
What's The Right Octane Level For Your Car?
Check your owner's manual to determine the right octane level for your car. Regular octane is recommended for most cars. However, some cars with high compression engines, like sports cars and certain luxury cars, need mid-grade or premium gasoline to prevent knock.
How Can You Tell If You're Using The Right Octane Level?
Listen to your car's engine. If it doesn't knock when you use the recommended octane, you're using the right grade of gasoline.
Will Higher Octane Gasoline Clean Your Engine Better?
As a rule, high-octane gasoline does not outperform regular octane in preventing engine deposits from forming, in removing them, or in cleaning your car's engine. In fact, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency requires that all octane grades of all brands of gasoline contain engine cleaning detergent additives to protect against the build-up of harmful levels of engine deposits during the expected life of your car.
Should You Ever Switch To A Higher Octane Gasoline?
A few car engines may knock or ping, even if you use the recommended octane. If this happens, try switching to the next highest octane grade. In many cases, switching to the mid-grade or premium-grade gasoline will eliminate the knock. If the knocking or pinging continues after one or two fill-ups, you may need a tune-up or some other repair. After that work is done, go back to the lowest octane grade at which your engine runs without knocking.
Is Knocking Harmful?
Occasional light knocking or pinging won't harm your engine, and doesn't indicate a need for higher octane. But don't ignore severe knocking. A heavy or persistent knock can lead to engine damage.
Is All "Premium" Or "Regular" Gasoline The Same?
The octane rating of gasoline marked "premium" or "regular" is not consistent across the country. One state may require a minimum octane rating of 92 for all premium gasoline, while another may allow 90 octane to be called premium. To make sure you know what you're buying, check the octane rating on the yellow sticker on the gas pump instead of relying on the name "premium" or "regular."
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