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Friday, December 26, 2008
A look at Ford's most advanced assembly plant that operates in rural Brazil
Friday, December 19, 2008
Aged Tires And Tire Safety
http//abcnews.go.com/Video/playerIndex?id=4826897
Saturday, December 13, 2008
The Five functions of Motor oil
1) Lubricate and Prevent Wear & Reduce Friction
Oil must prevent the metal-to-metal contact that will result in wear to the moving parts. Moving surfaces are continuously separated by a film of oil.
2)Protect Against Rust and Corrosion
Acids formed by the normal oxidation of oil, are a potential for rust and formation of corrosive engine deposits.Corrosion inhibitors which are part of the additive package help to protect non-ferrous metals by coating them.
3) A detergent- to Keep Engine Parts Clean
Partially burned fuel will escape past the rings into the crankcase Detergents are part of the additive package to clean-up existing deposits in the engine, as well as disperse insoluble matter into the oil.
4) Cool Engine Parts
The cooling system performs about 60% of the cooling job of the engine. It cools the upper part of the engine including the cylinder heads, cylinder walls, and valves. The crankshaft, the main and connecting rod bearings, the timing gears, the pistons and other components in the lower engine are cooled from the oil flows around the parts.
5) Seals- Combustion Pressures
The surfaces of the piston rings, ring grooves, and cylinder walls are not completely smooth. Motor oil fills in the hills and valleys and greatly improves the seal. They also help with seal swelling, keeping oil from leaking out of the engine pasted seals. Stops blowby!
Saturday, December 06, 2008
Recalls Via Email
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has unveiled a new initiative to notify vehicle owners electronically when their car is recalled. The recall alerts can be received via e-mail or RSS-feeds on personal computers, cell phones or PDA devices-automatically and free-of-charge. However, consumers must sign up to receive the notices. Do so at ..
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/subscriptions/index.cfm
Saturday, November 29, 2008
Interview with a Volkswagen Diesel Expert
Exclusive Interview with Volkswagen's Diesel Expert from Auto Channel on Vimeo.
Saturday, November 22, 2008
"The Real McCoy"
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Is there a way to tell whether my timing belt is good?
Yes, there is no way to tell if a timing belt is good. You can only tell if they are bad. The part of the belt that fails is covered by a cosmetic layer of rubber.
The inside of the belt is made of fabric that gives the belt its strength. The fabric can't be seen so you can not tell if it is good by looking at the cosmetic rubber covering. The normal rule is the mileage or four years whichever comes first, but do check with your specifics from the manufacturer because in recent years timing belt change intervals have increased.
Saturday, November 08, 2008
New Consumer information site on autos
Consumers can visit http://www.safercar.gov/ and click on the “E-mail” or “RSS” option to register for the new notification service. Lots of information that used to be found only at http://www.nhtsa.gov/ can now be found at the new site http://www.safercar.gov/.
check it out!
Saturday, November 01, 2008
Installing only two snow tires
Well, conventional wisdom says that when installing snow tires on a front drive vehicle they should be on the front, but that can cause disastrous rear wheel spin which is much more difficult to correct, especially in bad weather conditions. So it is true, that snow tires should be put on the rear wheels. While snow tires on the rear will give better results, snow tires should be put on all four wheels for the best results. But if you can only afford two snow tires, regardless of whether it is a front or rear wheel drive vehicle, put them on the back!
Saturday, October 25, 2008
Greasing the parking brake cable
No, Pumping grease into a parking brake cable is not a good idea because, often the lubricant winds up working it’s way down the cable into the rear brake assembly where it contaminants the rear shoes. If the brake cable is sticking or freezing up because water is getting inside, or it is rusted best thing to do is replace it!
Saturday, October 18, 2008
Storing small gas engines
Yes, if it’s possible on your engine, turn the engine over by hand until you feel the compression stroke. This closes the valves and prevents moisture from getting into the engine.
On the gasoline issue, there are 2 schools of thought here. One is to drain all the gas leaving the fuel system dry for the winter. The problem with this is that water can collect in the system because of condensation. The water will cause as much or more damage then the gas will. But leaving the fuel system full will cause just as much trouble due to stale gas and the solids that collect at the point of evaporation. The latest thinking for storage is to fill the tank with gas that has been treated with stabilizer. The stabilizer keeps the gas fresh and helps prevent the build up of deposits. The full tank keeps the condensation from happening. Note that after you fill the tank with stabilized fuel you must run the engine so that the fuel enters the carburetor, an almost forgotten step!
Saturday, October 11, 2008
Turning off the wipers when it quits raining
True, it’s the friction from the wiper blades dragging across the dry windshield that puts extra strain on the wiper motor and can cause the wiper motor to burn out prematurely. It is best to turn them off, if it stops raining. *
*From Motorwatch "Mr-know-it-all"
Saturday, October 04, 2008
The radiator pressure cap
1) Filler cap to access the cooling sytem.
2) Closure cap to keep coolant in the radiator.
3) Pressure cap to prevent overheating by pressurizing the system to raise the boiling temperature of coolant and allow the automobile's engine to operate at more efficient higher temperatures.
4) Pressure relief valve to safely and harmlessly vent excess pressure into the overflow jug.
5) Vacuum relief/siphon valve to draw coolant from the overflow jug back into the radiator to prevent air from entering the system and allowing the coolant to perform its function more efficiently.
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Quarter test for tire wear!
The Tire Rack** say that popular lesson is outdated, compromises safety, and
should give way to the Quarter Test.
In the old Penny Test, seeing the top of Lincoln's head while holding a penny upside down in a tire tread groove indicated a tread depth of2/32-inch (1.6mm) or less, and that the tire needed replacing.
"The Penny Test was an indirect result
John Rastetter, director of tire information
that depth (2/32") that most warranties remain
to drive longer on tires that don't provide enough
Tire Rack tests showed that doubling the tread
are voided will improve safety by cutting braking
traction in the wet. "We know these changes won't
encouraging drivers to pay more attention to their
Wet/Snowy roads + Worn tires = A real problem.
How to properly check tire tread depth can be
http://www.tirerack.com/treaddepth
** Parts of article from The Tire Rack website
Saturday, September 20, 2008
Is parking on a hill bad for your tires?
No, tires get far more wear on exit ramps at highway speeds then when your not moving. Parking on a hill puts stress on another part of the car, called the parking pawl. This is a part inside the automatic transmission that makes the car lock when you put the selector in park. However, putting it into park without first setting the parking brake will make it hard to shift back into gear. If you don't use the parking brake on a hill, the car will lurch back slightly when you take your foot off the brake and this lurch is hard on the transmission, not the tires!
Saturday, September 13, 2008
When do you need to use premium gasoline?
Saturday, September 06, 2008
Gm Dexcool settlement time is running out!
General Motors has reached settlement in a class action lawsuit stemming from alleged defects in Dex-Cool, the GM developed coolant used in GM vehicles since the mid-1990’s. Under the terms of the settlement, those who owned certain V-6 powered GM vehicles may be eligible for payments as large as $800 each.
The settlement applies to as many as 35 million customers and is considered one of the largest products liability lawsuits against any automaker. Dex-Cool was blamed for cooling system failures, including leaks and clogged radiators.
Under the provisions of the settlement, only those who have paid for Dex-Cool related repairs will receive payments. The amount to be paid will depend on the age of the vehicle at the time of repairs, with the largest sums paid to those whose vehicles were closest to new in age at the time of the repairs. Those who made multiple repairs will be able to claim multiple payments.
The settlement applies only to those who purchased GM vehicles with 3.1, 3.4. 3.8, and 4.3 liter V-6 engines within 7 years and 150,000 miles of new.
General Motors has previously claimed that Dex-Cool, the first of the organic acid technology based coolants (OAT) used by a major auto manufacturer, was not responsible for the various problems attributed to it by some vehicle owners. It has taken the position that problems attributed to Dex-Cool were the result of improper vehicle maintenance by owners are commingling Dex-Cool with non OAT coolants.
Time is running out. If you wish to submit your claim by mail, you must mail the above documents, postmarked no later than October 27, 2008. For more info call 1-866-245-4291
or visit http://www.dexcoolsettlement.com/faq.php3#Q7 which has a listing of specific vehicles(year model)that are covered.
Saturday, August 30, 2008
choosing a Muligrade oil
Yes, in the winter base your decision on the lowest temperatures that you will encounter and in the summer the highest temperature that you expect. In general the greater the oils viscosity range the more the oil is prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown, do to high polymer content. A 10w-40 and a 15w-30 require a lot of polymers which is what they add to an oil which allows it to get thicker when it gets hotter, but it does not lubricate. Group III and group IV oils use polymers in order to achieve that range of viscosity. Polymers also burn with forms ring sticking deposits and other problems. The more polymers there are the less oil there is in the container to lubricate your engine. Overall it’s best to avoid polymers, and do that by using group V oils.
Saturday, August 23, 2008
Fuel injector cleaners and gasoline additives- Save Gasoline!
Yes, fuel additives help prevent carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber, and on the back face of the valves. These rob the engine of power, which means less gas mileage. So clean the injectors or use a gasoline additive that keeps the injectors clean, will help clean off the carbon and that will improve engine efficiency, which will means better gasoline mileage for you going down the road.
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Sport utility vehicles in accidents
No, This assumption that large SUV’s are safer is based only on rollover statistics which are not enough to make such a blanket statement like that. The crash risk of death injury is the greatest in a passenger car that is involved in a frontal or side impact crash. In frontal crashes more than 6 passenger car drivers die for every driver killed in a van or pickup truck. A 6 to 1 ratio. More than 4 passenger car drivers die for every driver that is killed in an SUV.
Saturday, August 09, 2008
Particles in serpentine belts
Saturday, August 02, 2008
Henry Ford did not..
Yes. The gasoline powered car was invented by two different men in the late 1800's, Gottlieb Daimler and Karl Benz, working independent of one another. In order to fulfill a government contract to make muskets, EliWhitney pioneered the assembly line process 100 years before Ford.
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Washing a car with a Sponge
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Diagnostic Tech: '97 Olds Cutlass Supreme
I guess the car owner didn't want to waste a lot of time putting things back together in case he had to scrap out the car (grin). You may think that an ignition switch is where the key goes but that is an ignition lock. The actual ignition switch is electrical and mounts to the top of the lower portion of the steering column. In the picture above it is left hanging below the brake pedal. Since the switch has been removed and only one bolt is left holding the steering column in place I can drop the column down and show you what you'll see in the switch mounting area with the switch removed.
The long metal rod is an actuator for the switch. When you turn the ignition lock back and forth the actuator moves back and forth. The end of the rod you see sticking up fits into a slot in the ignition switch. The ignition switch body fastens solidly to the column with two machine screws and when the actuator moves it causes the inner portion of the switch to move creating paths for voltage to operate the various electrical systems in key on, accessory and crank positions.
Since the switch is hanging there so handy I can insert a small screwdriver into the slot and operate the switch using the screwdriver as an actuator.
When I slide the switch to the crank position I should get ignition voltage to the yellow wire at the switch, and I do. But, I don't get starter engagement. The antitheft system on this car uses a small resistor pellet in the key. Even though I'm not using the key to actuate the ignition switch the key must be in the lock cylinder so that the theft deterrent module can read the pellet resistance. If the resistance isn't correct then the module won't enable the starter. The trouble here is that since I already know this I have the key in the lock cylinder and still have no starter engagement.
I have power at the yellow wire when the switch is in crank position. This power should show up at the starter relay fuse #11 in the fuse block. It does and the fuse is good. From the fuse the power should go to the transaxle range switch, through the switch in park or neutral to the theft deterrent relay. Now the theft deterrent relay and the theft deterrent module are accessible (just barely) if you remove the glove compartment. Feel around in the area directly above and you'll find them. There are metal screws to mount them in place. Now it could be that the car just needs a starter and the cranking voltage is reaching all the way to the solenoid. It could be that the range switch is bad and the voltage is never reaching the relay. What I'm going to do though is test the key resistance since all of this wiring is still laying there handy in the column area. If you look closely at the wiring coming from the steering column you will see what first appears to be a large orange wire but if you follow the wire to its connector at the lower end you will see that it is two small white wires covered by an orange sheath. Disconnect those two wires from the car harness and place your ohmmeter test leads on the column side of the harness. With the ignition key in the lock cylinder you should get a resistance reading that matches the resistance of the key pellet. You can measure the pellet resistance directly by placing a lead on each side of the pellet, one on one side of the key, one on the other.
This key pellet measured 1,100 ohms at the key but infinity at the wires. That means that either the lock cylinder isn't reading the key or there is an open in the wiring. Not reading the key can be a bad lock cylinder but it can also be a bad key with the pellet worn too badly to make good contact within the cylinder. There are 15 legitimate key codes, each with a different resistance range. When you take the key to your GM parts department they can place the key into a tester that will check the resistance and tell them the pellet code number. If it is the key that is not good it should show up while trying to read the pellet code. If you know the resistance you can tell the parts person the pellet code number even if the key doesn't read well enough for his tester to show it. There is a chart for this.
Now to verify that the antitheft system is the problem and to give you a better idea of where to find the theft deterrent relay I have removed the glove box and the metal screw mounting the relay so that the wiring can be accessed. The two yellow wires should be powered with the switch in the crank position. They are. The yellow/black wire should be grounded by the theft deterrent module to enable the starter. It is not being grounded because the module doesn't see the correct key pellet resistance.
You could jumper the big yellow wire to the big purple solenoid wire and the starter would engage with the switch or you could jumper a ground to the yellow/black wire and the starter would engage with the switch but the car wouldn't run because there is a fuel enable circuit as well. This is the point though where the rumors are true. If you know the resistance that the module is looking for you can place a resistor of that size in the car harness connector of the two small white wires and the system will allow fuel and starter to be enabled. Another interesting note, the modules are not programmed when new. Each new module will "burn" in to the first resistance measurement it sees on a crank and that will be what it looks for each time.
Since the goal here is a proper repair what I need to do next is remove the turn signal switch. With the turn signal switch out of the way I'll be able to see the two white wires at the lock cylinder. I expect to see one of them is broken. This is very common because the flexing of the wires while turning the key over the years eventually causes a wire to break. Sometimes the break will be inside the insulation and not seen but can be found by carefully pulling on the wires.
I won't go through the procedures for turn signal switch removal. They can be found in any good repair manual. You'll need a couple of special tools. One for removing the steering wheel and one for removing the steering wheel lock plate.
I didn't disconnect the turn signal wiring or airbag clockspring but pulled enough slack to get them out of the way. I can see the broken wire.
This lock cylinder will need to be replaced. I usually cut the connector off at the lower end and pull the wires up through the column. A trip to the friendly GM dealer gets me a new lock cylinder and key with good wiring and the proper resistor pellet.
To feed the wiring of the new lock cylinder down through the steering column I usually run a piece of mechanic's wire down through the column tube until it has several inches sticking out at the bottom. At the top, loop the metal wire to the lock cylinder wire connector, tape it all in place and pull the wire down through the steering column.
After that it is just a matter of putting everything back together. As a plus, the car even starts and runs now!
Kenneth Hayes
AKA Deranger
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Why are cell phones banned, while in flight?
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Diagnostic Tech: '98 Buick Century 3.1
Since I had power at the fuse I knew the ignition switch was working. I didn't know if the power was reaching pin 23 of the C2 PCM connector but I also didn't know if I was getting power to the starter solenoid. I only suspected I was not. What I decided to do next, since the starter was very accessible, was to check for power at the solenoid. I clamped a jumper wire to the S terminal at the starter solenoid and the other end of the wire to a test light placed under the hood in a position I could see from inside the car. Since the test light did not indicate power when I turned the switch to start position I knew I had no power to the S terminal of the starter solenoid.
This starting system uses a crank relay. When the PCM sees the crank signal from the ignition switch on pin 23 of the C2 connector the PCM can close the crank relay by grounding pin 76 of the C2 connector. When closed, the crank relay allows the power from the 40 amp crank fuse in the underhood junction block to reach the transaxle range switch. When the range switch is in neutral or park position the power will pass through the switch to the S terminal of the starter solenoid.
This seemed like a good time to connect a scan tool to the car. With a scan tool I might see if there was a reason for the PCM to not engage the starter, such as a problem with the anti-theft system.
Well, there was a problem with communication. My scan tool would not communicate with the PCM. When I have that happen I try to make sure I've entered the vehicle information correctly. The information was correct so I tried to use the OBDII system to access the datastream instead of the GM system but still had no communication. It seemed like a good time to try a different scan tool. The second scan tool didn't help. I still had no communication. I checked for power and ground at the diagnostic connector. There should be battery power at pin 16 and ground at pin 4.
The power and ground were fine. A good class II data line communication can be easily seen with a graphing meter. The class II serial data is at pin 2. Sometimes there is a lot of communication, sometimes less. I had communication activity but I couldn't tell if any of that was from the PCM. There are several modules sharing the class II data bus.
What I could tell is that the bus was operating and there was communication on the line. What I wanted to know next is if I had a good bus at the PCM. The class II serial data line at the PCM is at pin 59 of the C1 (blue) connector. I used the graphing meter to check the data line at the PCM by backprobing pin 59 and I had a good bus. Next I cut the dark green wire feeding pin 59. That would mean that any activity I measured on the PCM side of the wire was coming from the PCM and any on the harness side was coming from another module. The harness side had a good signal. There was no signal from the PCM. I made a check of powers and grounds at the PCM connectors and pronounced this PCM dead.
I left the data wire cut and after connecting a new PCM I had a communication signal on the graphing meter coming from the PCM. I repaired the wire and reconnected the scan tool to look for communication. Success! I had a datastream on the scan tool. A peek at trouble codes gave me P1610 Loss of PZM/BCM Serial Data, P1626 Anti-theft System Fuel Enable Circuit and P1631 Theft System Password Incorrect. I guess the most worrisome part was the car still would not start. The starter would not engage. I suspected the P1610 was related to my having the open wire at the PCM connector and that the two Theft system codes could be handled with a password relearn. I cleared the codes from the PCM and used the following procedure to learn a new password.
Turn the key off, wait at least 30 seconds.
Turn the key to start, just as if you are starting the car, then release the key to run, just as if it had started.
The security light should either be flashing or on steady. Just let it do whichever it likes until it goes out completely. This can take as long as 30 minutes.
Once the security light goes out turn the key back to off and wait another 30 seconds.
Go back through the same procedure, turning the key to start, waiting for the light to go out again. You may have to repeat the entire process as much as a half-dozen times.
The first time you turn the key to crank and the car actually starts you are done.
On this car, the third time I hit crank it fired up. I had to go back into the PCM data to clear any codes that set during the procedure (P1630 and P1631) and then it was outta here!
Kenneth Hayes
AKA Deranger
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Using candle wax to stop belt noise
Saturday, July 05, 2008
Fuel pump longevity
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Inflatable Electric Cars
XP Vehicles, Inc. is an electric powered automobile technology startup with patent protected technologies utilizing safe non-grid-connected energy cassettes to produce the electricity to run a polymer airbeam, carbon fiber constructed ultra light automobile. Goes 300 Miles on one charge. Hot swapping can increase the range indefinitely. Hot-swap XPack Multi-CoreTM Battery/Fuel Cell power plant has been patented Vehicles can be flat-pack shipped directly to users. Users perform final inflation. Cost less that $5,000. This may be a real innovation. Special stabilization provides stability on the road. Some speculate that air cushion makes the cars very safe in collision. May be able to survive going over a cliff!
Listen to the clip of Jim Russ and Dr. Richard Shurtz, President of Stratford University, and host of Tech Talk, a program about computers and information technology talk about this amazing vehicle.
Visit the Website at: http://www.xpcarteam.com/
Saturday, June 21, 2008
The most important sensor in a car that will improve miles per gallon?
Saturday, June 14, 2008
Storing Tires
Saturday, June 07, 2008
Brake Wear
The reason is that almost always the semi-metallic brake pads are used in the front and organic pads in the rear. It turns out that the semi-metallic's wear better than the organics, meaning they last longer! Organic pads are softer and tend to wear out faster, but they do cut down on noise. However you will see variations of this and some cars now use ceramic pads on all four corners.
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Water for Gas, does it work?
Saturday, May 24, 2008
The maximum mark on the brake master cylinder
No, not necessarily! With today’s cars that have ABS brakes the master cylinder has a maximum mark and you should not fill it passed it. As long as none of the brake warning lamps are not lit, that is how high you should fill it. If you fill it more then that you could cause damage and fluid could have brake fluid overflowing all over the engine compartment.
With ABS brakes just filling it to this maximum mark can be a problem. ABS brakes have an accumulator that pressurizes fluid, and there has to be some reservoir left for this fluid to go into. So filling it up to the max mark should only be done after the system has been depressurized.
Saturday, May 17, 2008
Turning the front wheels while stopped
Saturday, May 10, 2008
Using torque-limiting sockets
I have heard that using a "torque stick" with an impact gun to install wheel lug nuts is not enough to prevent brake rotor distortion. This practice could result in the on set of brake pedal pulsation. Is this so?
Yes, impact guns have a high enough speed to cause the first nut to catch and hold the wheel at a slight angle relative to the hub even if a torque limiting socket is used. The wheel will not seat correctly and wil lcock against the mounting flange ofthe hub as the other lug nuts are tightened. The lug nut will pull against the rotor hub, stress it, which leads to brake rotor distortion. Avoid this by using a torque wrench.
Saturday, May 03, 2008
Rodents in automobiles and HPS
Field mice ,squirrels, rodents, what do they all have in common when it comes to automobiles? They love to build nests and in of all places ,some of them in the cabin filter areas.
What is bad about all this is they leave mice droppings all around and a very serious air born virus can result. It is called HPS. Why is this so bad?
Hantaviruspulmonary syndrome (HPS) is
a deadly disease transmitted by infected rodents through urine,
droppings, or saliva. Humans can contract the disease when they breathe in the air born virus.
People get HPs when they breath in hantaviruses.
This can happen when rodent urine and
droppings that contain a hantavirus are stirred up
into the air. People can also become infected when
they touch mouse or rat urine, droppings, or nesting
materials that contain the virus and then touch
their eyes, nose, or mouth. They can also get
HPS from a mouse or rat bite.
Be careful when cleaning up a car that has such nests, so that
you are not at risk for HPS by Improperly cleaning up mouse and rat
urine, droppings, and nests. Where a breathing mask, rubber gloves, and don't blow this stuff around with an air hose. Make sure the entire area is sprayed with a strong disinfectant.
To help avoid all this make sure you keep food away from close proximity of the areas.
Saturday, April 26, 2008
Evap monitors-Do Diesel engines use them?
No, they don't need to. It has to do with what is called Reid Vapor Pressure"RVP". This is an established method for measuring a fuel's volatility( the tendency of a liquid to evaporate under a given set of conditions). According to the EPA the least volatile blend of gasoline has a RVP of 7.4 psi at 100 degrees F. Diesel fuel No. 2 has an RVP of .022 psi at 100 degrees F, making evap emmisions a non-issue in diesel powered vehicles.