Dashboard deception- Will my Air Bag work?

I have heard that it is possible to be driving a car where the air bags don’t work even though no air bag warning light comes on. Is it true that the air bag light could be disabled and there is no way of testing the air bag without deployment?

Yes, it is true that the air bag might not work even though there is no warning light lit! However there is a way to test if the air bag will work without deployment! There are two primary ways for air bag systems to be compromised . First you buy a used car without having the car’s safety systems checked as part of your pre-purchase procedure. Another way is as simple as taking your car to an unknown body shop. Airbags are expensive and when anything is expensive crooks will find a way to cheat you on purchasing the item or outright steal it. These crooks often called curbstoners, frequently buy cars that have been in an accident that caused the air bags to deploy. They fix the body of the car with bubble gum and body filler then set about “fixing” the airbags. Because the high price of replacement airbags was a major reason why the car was totaled, the curbstoners fix is not to replace the air bags but to make them look like they have been replaced.

They do this by buying what is called “fake airbag covers” and stuffing them with rags and folded newspapers. The result is an airbag that looks new but has nothing inside it and no ability to protect anyone in an accident. They finish by disabling the SRS warning light.

To avoid this when you buy a used car get a Carfax Vehicle History Report. But more importantly have a technician perform what is called an airbag computer diagnostic scan.

Motor oil in small gasoline engines

My Briggs & Stratton manual calls for SAE 30 weight. What is wrong with using a 10w-30? On my snow blower it says use a multi viscosity oil such as 10w30! What’s the difference? It is the same type of engine.

The reason straight 30-weight is specified is because air-cooled engines don’t need viscosity improvers since they typically aren’t operated in sub-zero temps. Multi-viscosity motor oils use viscosity improvers (VI’s) in order to get oil to behave like a 10-weight oil at freezing temps, and then to thicken and become a 30-weight oil at 212 degrees F. Since the VI’s take up space in the container, that leaves less room for the oil—which is the actual lubricant. Remember, VI’s don’t lubricate—they only thicken. In other words, a can of straight 30-weight oil has more lubricant than a can of 10w-30 oil. However, a snowblower would benefit from a 10w-30 due to the lower temperatures the engine must run in.

TIRE EXPIRATION DATES

I have heard that tire expiration dates are hard to determine because there are so many variables that affect tire aging. So is there a way to determine just how old are the tires on your vehicle?

yes! The date of manufacture is indicated by the last group of digits in the DOT manufacture code on the sidewall of the tire. The number is often stamped in a recessed rectangle. The DOT code tells who manufactured the tire, where it was made and when. The last group of digits in the code is the date code that tells when the tire was made.
Before 2000, the date code had three digits. Since 2000, it has had four. The first two digits are the week of the year (01 = the first week of January). The third digit (for tires made before 2000) is the year (1 = 1991). For most tires made after 2000, the third and fourth digits are the year (04 = 2004).

For example, if the date code is 8PY806. The 8PY is a manufacturing shift code, and the date the tire was actually made was 0806, which is the 8th week (08)in the year 2006 (06).
The date of manufacture is essential information for car owners and tire buyers because tires deteriorate even if they are not used.

Auto Insurance term "Steering" what does it mean?

I had collision damage done to my vehicle. My Insurance company says
they require that repairs be made by a specific repair shop or individual. Is this so?

NO! this is called Steering, and as defined by the Auto Damage Appraisers Licensing Board, is the act of directing a claimant to or away from any specific autobody repair shop or requiring that repairs be made by a specific repair shop or individual.

If you are told that it will take longer to get your car repaired or cost more if you choose your own shop, BEWARE. You are probably being steered. Comments such as "We won't reimburse paint and materials," "We don't pay that rate," "We won't guaranty the work if you bring your car there," or "We won't pay the difference" are misleading and usually untrue. Insurance companies are required to negotiate in good faith with any registered collision repair shop on the proper cost to repair the vehicle to pre-accident condition. You pay insurance premiums and contract to pay a specific deductible in the event repairs are required. In effect, you've already paid for proper repairs.

Why should you choose your own collision repair shop rather than one "suggested" by the insurance company?

There are compelling reasons to choose an independent, trusted repair shop that you know will make sure your vehicle is restored to its pre-accident condition. Insurance appraisers work for insurance companies. Repair shops work for you. They look out for your best interest. They will negotiate directly with the insurance company for the proper repairs so that your vehicle is safe for you and your family. An independent collision repair shop, will serve as your advocate in the repair process. Preferred or referral repair shops contract with insurance companies regarding the costs and repair procedures. The insurance company sets the rules and the preferred or referral repair shop simply follows them to keep the insurance companies' costs down. These cost reductions have to come from somewhere. They may affect the quality and thoroughness of the repair service and/or the quality and condition of the parts used. You have paid your insurance premiums with the expectation of receiving safe and proper repairs, not cheap repairs.

Physics & Automobiles

Have not seen something like this since the old Mouse trap game. Enjoy!

Diagnostic Tech: '92 Astro Van, 4.3Z

I had a '92 Astro Van come in on the hook for a no-start. The engine was a 4.3 with throttle body fuel injection. The owner said the van had been stalling and sometimes failing to start for some time now. He had replaced the fuel pump and filter because he thought it seemed to be running out of fuel. No testing had been done and the same problem remained after the fuel pump replacement. When I turned the key on I could hear the fuel pump run. Turning the key to start engaged the starter, the engine spun nicely and... it even started right up! It isn't uncommon for a no-start to be towed in and then start once it gets here. I'm sure there is an applicable Murphy's law for that.

What I did notice though was an intermittent engine cut-out. A sure fire sign of a secondary ignition problem. Even though the van owner was still sure he had a fuel problem, I decided to take a look at the ignition system. On the Astro van the ignition system is easy to access once the engine cover is removed. I immediately saw what was probably causing that cut-out symptom I had noticed. There was a burn mark where the secondary spark from the coil wire had been jumping to a vacuum hose instead of following the intended path to the distributor cap. That meant that the resistance in the secondary, downstream of the coil wire was so great that the spark found it easier to jump to the vacuum hose. A mental list of plugs, wires, cap and rotor was forming in my mind.

As I began the work of replacing the secondary ignition parts I began to be amazed that this engine was running at all. The coil wire tower in the cap was completely burned away.

The rotor was burned through and the distributor was severely corroded.

After a cleaning with electrical contact cleaner and penetrating oil the distributor was found to be in good condition. I replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. The van ran very well after that with no more stalling or cutting out. At 264,000 miles I wouldn't be surprised if it did need that fuel pump as well.

Kenneth Hayes

aka, Deranger

Types of timing belts

I have heard that there are two different types of timing belts that are found on vehicles today. Is this so?

Yes, Originally belts were constructed of neoprene, which is still used, but due to increased engine demands , a new “tougher” belt has been constructed. It is made of HSN(highly saturated nitrile material that has high tensile strength cord construction to minimize stretch and tough wear resistant fabric on the working tooth surface, designed to handle wide speed variations and constant driveline power requirements.