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Monday, December 30, 2013
Friday, December 27, 2013
Tuesday, December 24, 2013
Monday, December 23, 2013
Monday, December 16, 2013
Tuesday, December 10, 2013
Monday, December 09, 2013
Sunday, December 08, 2013
Tuesday, December 03, 2013
Monday, December 02, 2013
Monday, November 25, 2013
Monday, November 18, 2013
Monday, November 11, 2013
Tuesday, November 05, 2013
Monday, November 04, 2013
Monday, October 28, 2013
Monday, October 21, 2013
Monday, October 14, 2013
Saturday, October 12, 2013
Wednesday, October 09, 2013
Monday, October 07, 2013
Monday, September 30, 2013
Replacing A Broken Ball Joint
Caution: Be sure to include all safety measures when doing this yourself(not shown)
Monday, September 23, 2013
Monday, September 16, 2013
Monday, September 09, 2013
Monday, September 02, 2013
Monday, August 26, 2013
Monday, August 19, 2013
Monday, August 12, 2013
Monday, August 05, 2013
Monday, July 29, 2013
Monday, July 22, 2013
PowerFrame batteries
Not all batteries are the same. Make sure yours is one made from this technology!
Watch the video below then go to To learn more.
http://powerframe.com/us-en
Tuesday, July 16, 2013
Monday, July 15, 2013
Monday, July 08, 2013
A/C Pro
Sam Memmolo Radio and Tv host explains how you can recharge your A/C yourself with this A/C pro recharge product!
Tuesday, July 02, 2013
Monday, July 01, 2013
Cleaning EGR Passages with a Speedo Cable
I found Scotty's video about EGR Passages to be entertaining and as
usual catering to the "fix it" crowd of the "It's simple and easy and
quick" with the mentality that auto repair is easy and cheap.
I gave up on using Speedo Cables for EGR Passage cleaning after my first couple attempts, DECADES ago. They just don't work for this, they're far to Wimpy. Ya might as well chuck-up a string of yarn in your drill for this use. I don't exactly know how this myth of Speedo Cable in a Drill for EGR Passage clean-up started, but it persists none the less.
You see, EGR passages that are plugged with Carbon Deposits is normal over time and mileage, but these deposits are ROCK HARD, unless the Engine is an oil-burner, then they are a bit gooshy. Think about the basic chemistry of combustion, our fuel of choice is a HydroCarbon and Carbon is one of the elements that is left-over, nothing is perfect.
I have had to use hammer and chisel on a few, and a regular drill bit in a drill can speed things up. I do have a unique parking brake cable that I salvaged and conscripted to EGR Passage cleaning for the "easy" ones that are gooshy. It has a steel ring or band that is crimped onto it from the factory. I cut the cable about a foot long and left the end away from the crimp about 6 inches long. MUCH MUCH better than a wimp wet noodle Speedo Cable.
I never sprung for one of these Snake Bits
because my time tested methods served me well.
The deposits usually condense on the "cold" side. The part between the EGR and Intake.
Most of the time I can reach through a wide open Throttle with some custom-made 90 and 45 degree "poke and scrape" tools that I made, of course I have the EGR Valve off also.
A few notes about detecting plugged passages...
Just yank the EGR Valve off and start the engine! On a MAP based system the engine will scream at about 3 grand (don't worry, it's safe) if the passage between the EGR and Intake is open, AND you'll be able to feel if the OTHER passage is flowing, the Exhaust port to the EGR.
Many of today's cars though are MAF based, you'll want to duct tape over the Intake port before starting (so it will start and run) and be ready to hold the throttle whilst you take off that duct tape to check for STRONG vacuum on that port.
There are a few other ways to check for proper EGR flow using a vacuum gauge and/or Scanner, but I'll get into that another time as I'm mainly wanting to comment about this particular video.
And his comment about soaking the EGR Stem with a penetrant? Don't trust it! I have NEVER EVER had a successful "repair" doing so. They ALWAYS came back STALLING and SPUTTERING at idle and off-throttle because the dang thing stuck AGAIN!
I will say this though, IF the EGR is stuck open because a chunk of HARD CARBON booger is trapping the valve open at the Pintle, you are probably safe to clear it and re-use the Valve.
BUT, if the Valve stuck open because of the STEM being sticky or binding, DON'T BE FOOLED, it will stick again and continue your grief.
Also, I was impressed that he used at the end, the On Board diagnostic system to detect and confirm the repair. However, an important part was left out! OBD Regulations state that the System can only clear the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp, ie Check Engine light) after at least TWO CONSECUTIVE trips that run the same failure test within 10% of the load and rpm wherein the failure occurred. It IS a good way to confirm a repair, but it takes TIME. The car must cool down and also be driven multiple times, not something Scotty mentioned. Far better to use proper diagnostic and repair techniques from the get-go.
Best Regards,
Mike.
I gave up on using Speedo Cables for EGR Passage cleaning after my first couple attempts, DECADES ago. They just don't work for this, they're far to Wimpy. Ya might as well chuck-up a string of yarn in your drill for this use. I don't exactly know how this myth of Speedo Cable in a Drill for EGR Passage clean-up started, but it persists none the less.
You see, EGR passages that are plugged with Carbon Deposits is normal over time and mileage, but these deposits are ROCK HARD, unless the Engine is an oil-burner, then they are a bit gooshy. Think about the basic chemistry of combustion, our fuel of choice is a HydroCarbon and Carbon is one of the elements that is left-over, nothing is perfect.
I have had to use hammer and chisel on a few, and a regular drill bit in a drill can speed things up. I do have a unique parking brake cable that I salvaged and conscripted to EGR Passage cleaning for the "easy" ones that are gooshy. It has a steel ring or band that is crimped onto it from the factory. I cut the cable about a foot long and left the end away from the crimp about 6 inches long. MUCH MUCH better than a wimp wet noodle Speedo Cable.
I never sprung for one of these Snake Bits
because my time tested methods served me well.
The deposits usually condense on the "cold" side. The part between the EGR and Intake.
Most of the time I can reach through a wide open Throttle with some custom-made 90 and 45 degree "poke and scrape" tools that I made, of course I have the EGR Valve off also.
A few notes about detecting plugged passages...
Just yank the EGR Valve off and start the engine! On a MAP based system the engine will scream at about 3 grand (don't worry, it's safe) if the passage between the EGR and Intake is open, AND you'll be able to feel if the OTHER passage is flowing, the Exhaust port to the EGR.
Many of today's cars though are MAF based, you'll want to duct tape over the Intake port before starting (so it will start and run) and be ready to hold the throttle whilst you take off that duct tape to check for STRONG vacuum on that port.
There are a few other ways to check for proper EGR flow using a vacuum gauge and/or Scanner, but I'll get into that another time as I'm mainly wanting to comment about this particular video.
And his comment about soaking the EGR Stem with a penetrant? Don't trust it! I have NEVER EVER had a successful "repair" doing so. They ALWAYS came back STALLING and SPUTTERING at idle and off-throttle because the dang thing stuck AGAIN!
I will say this though, IF the EGR is stuck open because a chunk of HARD CARBON booger is trapping the valve open at the Pintle, you are probably safe to clear it and re-use the Valve.
BUT, if the Valve stuck open because of the STEM being sticky or binding, DON'T BE FOOLED, it will stick again and continue your grief.
Also, I was impressed that he used at the end, the On Board diagnostic system to detect and confirm the repair. However, an important part was left out! OBD Regulations state that the System can only clear the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp, ie Check Engine light) after at least TWO CONSECUTIVE trips that run the same failure test within 10% of the load and rpm wherein the failure occurred. It IS a good way to confirm a repair, but it takes TIME. The car must cool down and also be driven multiple times, not something Scotty mentioned. Far better to use proper diagnostic and repair techniques from the get-go.
Best Regards,
Mike.
Monday, June 24, 2013
Monday, June 17, 2013
Monday, June 10, 2013
Monday, June 03, 2013
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
Monday, May 27, 2013
Tuesday, May 21, 2013
Monday, May 20, 2013
Sunday, May 19, 2013
Monday, May 13, 2013
Friday, May 10, 2013
Monday, May 06, 2013
Monday, April 29, 2013
Tuesday, April 23, 2013
Monday, April 22, 2013
Monday, April 15, 2013
Sunday, April 14, 2013
Monday, April 08, 2013
Monday, April 01, 2013
Monday, March 25, 2013
Monday, March 18, 2013
Monday, March 11, 2013
Tuesday, March 05, 2013
Monday, March 04, 2013
Monday, February 25, 2013
Monday, February 18, 2013
Monday, February 11, 2013
Monday, February 04, 2013
Mr Know It all
A Small segment from the Classic Nutz & Boltz radio show from years a ago!Listen by clicking on
the music note, then download and open from the top menu on the SkyDrive page
the music note, then download and open from the top menu on the SkyDrive page
Monday, January 28, 2013
Monday, January 21, 2013
Another Mr.Know.It.all segment!
Monday, January 14, 2013
Sunday, January 13, 2013
Monday, January 07, 2013
Thursday, January 03, 2013
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