Some Summer Car Care Tips

It seems safe to say winter is over, spring has sprung and just around the bend it will be summer time

again. With the summer weather comes the hot temperatures. Is your car ready for the summer?

Have you had the engine cooling system checked? No, I don't mean the air conditioner when I say

"Cooling System" I mean the system that prevents the engine from running too hot. The antifreeze, fan

belt or belts, water pump, thermostat and radiator. I've worked on many vehicles that had overheated

because the cooling system was not checked and a simple thing like the fan belt that drives the water

pump broke causing the engine to overheat. A small investment that would have prevented a very

expensive repair to the engine had the cooling system been checked for summer use. If your vehicle is

five years old or more you should have the cooling system drained, flushed and new antifreeze installed.

The radiator, water pump and fan belts should also be carefully inspected. I would recommend a qualified

auto technician perform this service.

How about the windshield wiper blades? They usually get pretty beat up over the winter months due to the

snow and ice. Now is a good time to replace them. There are some auto parts stores that will even replace

the blades for you at no extra charge.

OK, now lets get to the tires, you know, those four round things that keep your car from touching the

ground. It seems most owners neglect ever checking the condition of the tire wear much less the

pressure in the tires. Good tire condition and proper inflation will give you safer handling and better fuel

economy and with the cost of fuel, that is a real plus.

Well we now have the engine running cool, we can see out the windshield when it rains and our vehicle

rides and handles great so off we go only to find that it is hot as you know what inside of our vehicle.

WHAT happened to the air conditioner.
Most of the vehicles today will retain their refrigerant charge for a good number of years but should be

checked for proper performance by a qualified technician in the AC field. Yea, I know what your going to

say. If my system doesn't get cold like it did when I first bought it, I can go to a Wal-Mart or other parts

store and buy one of those recharge kits and do it myself. Now, I'm not saying you can't, what I'm saying is

that a low refrigerant charge may not be the problem and that by adding additional refrigerant to the

system you may be creating a dangerous condition of excessive high pressure which could cause a

refrigerant hose to rupture which may cover you with refrigerant and cause injury to your body especially

your face or eyes, or a compressor to seize up and damage drive belts or other parts of your vehicle. I

strongly recommend you have the system serviced by a qualified AC technician.

Recharging your automobiles A/C, yourself

It's going to be summer soon, and in many parts of the world, things are going to be heating up. Make sure your A/C is running at its best. If the AC isn't quite as cool as it used to be, the solution might be as simple as recharging the system. The air coming out of the vents should probably be between 40*F and 50*F unless it's very hot outside. If the air coming out is much warmer than this, your A/C is probably not functioning properly.

Cautions: The A/C system is under high pressure. Also, while R134a isn't as bad for the environment as the older R12, there is still a heavy fine for venting R134a into the atmosphere. You should never take apart your A/C system without proper training and refrigerant recovery equipment. Wear protective glasses at all times while servicing your A/C. Also, you will be working under or near the car while it is running. Please observe all safety precautions and refer to our disclaimer for carfix_online at the bottom of every email!

With the car running and A/C on Max, pop the hood and listen for or watch the A/C compressor pulley. It has a clutch, so the center of the pulley may spin intermittently. It should start and spin for 30 seconds or longer. If after 90 seconds it never spins, make sure your A/C is turned on. If it spins for just a few seconds, stops, then starts again after a few seconds, it is short cycling. Either of these could be caused by low refrigerant levels. There may be a leak or something more serious at fault.

Interdynamics makes it very conventient for a DYI’er (do-it-yourself) to recharge a R134a system. There quick charge charging gun QCK-2CS,(a video of it can be seen later in this article) and you simply connect the hose to the low-pressure port, screw a can of refrigerant into the Quick Charge, squeeze the trigger to dispense and release to stop. Quick Charge will automatically give you a pressure reading on the built-in gauge. Quick Charge is completely re-usable.

Locate the Low-pressure A/C recharge port of your system. The low-pressure port usually has a blue or black dust cap and is located on the larger diameter metal tubing that runs between the evaporator (in the dashboard) and the compressor. If you can’t find it or your not sure stop here and seek professional help!

With the car off, a rule of thumb is that the pressure should read about the same as the ambient temperature in Fahrenheit. If it's 80 degrees outside, the pressure at this service port should be somewhere around 80 PSI.

Start the car and run the A/C on high with recirculation as shown below. This will make sure that the A/C pump is running as hard as possible. If the A/C compressor isn't running (you can usually hear it), the pressure may read high. If the A/C compressor never starts, or if it's short-cycling, the readings could be off. If the system needs recharging, start adding refrigerant to the system per the instructions that came with the recharge kit. For the Interdynamics charging gun, you simply read the pressure, then momentarily hold the trigger down to add refrigerant. Release the trigger, and check the pressure again.

A few other things to note. There is a high-pressure service port under the hood (covered with a plastic cap, near the radiator). A high pressure gauge hooked up to this port, combined with the low pressure gauge in the recharge kit, can point out a failure with the expansion valve or the compressor. These high-pressure gauges use a different size of connector, and are not usually sold with the "do-it-yourself" style A/C recharge.Note: You can't repair an AC system properly with just a low side gauge. It requires a low side and high side reading to know what is actually going on!

The video below is taken from the “The Two guys” TV show.

It shows the Quick Charge
charging gun and how it is used.

http://www.id-usa.com/video/interdynamics-shortvideo(WindowsMedia-DSL).wmv

What to Do and Not Do in the Event of an Accident

What to Do and Not Do in the Event of an Accident

What You Need to Know After an Auto Accident

The worst thing has just happened to you. You have had an accident. There's never a good time to have an accident but it always seems to happen at the worst possible time. So what do you do? First off you need to stay calm. It's a totally natural reaction to lose your head or panic right when you need to be rational. Just after the accident is the time you should be taking note of all the information you will need to ensure that you are fully compensated and covered for any damage done to your property or to you. Talk to witnesses, get their contact details, make notes and take pictures if possible at the time of the accident. You'll be glad you did as it will be difficult to accurately recall all of the details as time passes. Finally remember not to admit that you caused the accident, even if you did.

Right after the accident this will all be the last thing you think of, so make a checklist and keep it in the car.
While you are at the Accident Scene, note the following details
You will need:
Driver Details of everyone involved in the accident. Don't forgrt to add yours too. These details should cover the Drivers Name, driving license details, and driver insurance details including the insurance company name, policy number, and contact details. Finally remember to get the car license plate number. If you are carrying a camera take pictures of the accident scene, the damaged vehicles, and any injuries that were caused by the accident. Note the contact details of any witnesses such as name, address, phone number and email address so that you can follow up with them later.

Post-Accident Follow Up
Complete your own fully detailed description of the accident as soon as possible after it occurred. You can fill this in with the details and any pictures that you took at the scene of the accident. If you were injured then take pictures of your injuries. Follow up with the witnesses to the accident and get their written details of the accident. If the Police attended the scene of the accident ask for their report.

After the Accident
If you were injured you will need to keep track of the following medical expenses and visits:
Any hospital visits and treatments at hospitals such as MRI, x-ray, physiotherapy and laboratory services. Over the counter and prescription medications.
You should keep track of the dates, times and reasons you had to visit a doctor or the hospital, and keep a note of the time off of work due to the accident. If the time off caused a loss of income, you should get a letter detailing all of the lost income from your employer. Similarly if you are still in school you should keep track of all of the hours of missed schooling due to the accident.
While you are undertaking medical treatment you should take pictures of your injuries to show their progress over time. Keep a log of the date and time of the picture and add details of any pain that you are experiencing, how you are feeling, and any distress or discomfort that you experience as a result of the accident.
Keep track of all other expenses related to the accident. These will include some of the following: Property damages such as car repairs, damage to barriers, fences and signs.
Some other indirect expenses may also occur such as a cancelled vacation due to injuries sustained in the accident or the cost of a rental car while yours is repaired. Finally there are other miscellaneous costs, such as ointments,lotions to treat your injuries, and bandages.

Finally
Never reply to any questions or queries from any other party involved in or related to the accident, such as insurance companies or attorneys without first consulting your attorney. Do not settle any bills or sign any documents until you are sure of the extent of current and future medical expenses related to the accident, and have agreed on it with your attorney.

(From an article by Steve Dolan)

Do you need to use fuel system additives?

If you only drive long distances and do no stop-and-go driving there is very little need to use fuel system additives to keep carbon buildup from forming on the intake valves, as long as your using a Top Tier gasoline. This will give you the minimum additives required by the auto manufacturers. Is this so?

Yes, however for most drivers, additional additives are needed to keep carbon buildup from forming on the intake valves. Lack of gasoline detergent additives in modern gasoline coupled with high concentrations of alcohol causes carbon buildup on the intake valves. The carbon builds up on the back face of the valves, causing different symptoms.

The carbon acts as a sponge and absorbs the incoming air/fuel mixture causing a lean condition which results in hesitation when accelerating. In extreme cases can cause a lean “pop-back” condition which manifests as a misfire/backfire into the intake manifold. Carbon which sticks to the intake valve stem or on the valve guide will make the valve stick open. When the engine is turned off and engine cools down, the carbon turns hard and causes a valve to become stuck in the open position. The next time the engine is started it will have a dead cylinder because of the valve remaining open. This results in a no-start condition or dead cylinder. Proper chemical decarbonizing treatment can remove this carbon from the engine.

Synthetic Oil: Scam or Real Deal?

Look on the shelf of your local auto parts house and you'll see more oils than breakfast cereal choices at the supermarket. It wasn't so long ago that you had about a half dozen to pick from, and since they were all made from the same gunk, it didn't matter much anyway. Then in the early 1970s popped up a new batch of lubricants -- synthetic oils. Made popular by brands like Amsoil and Mobil 1, die-hard gear heads, racers and enthusiasts started using synthetic oil exclusively. Unfortunately, it wasn't until almost two decades later that the major oil companies started offering synthetics to the masses. Despite the number of benefits over mined oil (the stuff they pump out of the ground), Americans still haven't fully embraced this advanced technology.

So what's the difference? Synthetic oil is produced in a lab, which means the only stuff in it is what they put in it. Despite the high-tech refining of crude oil, there are still contaminants in the oil that can build up and eventually damage an engine. Changing your oil and filter removes any loose particles that form, but often the build-up occurs in an isolated area of your engine, usually where it gets really, really hot. This build up can clog oil passages and valves, which can eventually lead to reduced engine life.

There are also ecological benefits to using synthetic oil. Its viscosity (ability to lubricate) stays higher than mined oil at high temperatures, enough to even affect your gas mileage. Since it breaks down much more slowly than petroleum-based oil, you can greatly extend the time between oil changes. One truck driver drove his semi 409,000 miles on synthetic without changing the oil! Think of how much less oil would have to be collected and recycled if we used half as much every year.

The bottom line is synthetic motor oils are an easy choice. The extra couple of bucks you spend for an oil change will be returned in no time at all. Better is better, whether its engine life, gas mileage or environmental impact.

(From an article by Matthew Wright)

Automatic Transmission fluid changes

I have heard that dropping the drain pan and doing a complete filter change will remove most of the old transmission fluid in an automatic transmission. Is this so?

No, the drain and filter change leaves more then half of the automatic transmission fluid behind in the transmission and mostly in the torque converter. A flushing machine is the only way to remove all of the fluid in your transmission

Information About Radar Detectors

Radar detector models nowadays are the result of combining trouble-free ergonomic designs with state-of-the-art technology. They provide motorists with inexpensive, much needed protection from troublesome speeding tickets and hazards on the road.

How are radar detectors able to this?

From the name itself, radar detectors detect beams that usually come from police radar, which measures the speed by which vehicles are traveling on the road. A radar detector will provide a warning signal even before the police radar can measure the vehicle's speed, buying the motorist some time to adjust his driving speed and be saved from a speeding ticket.

What should you look out for a radar detector?

The Type. A radar detector has three types, namely remote-mount, corded, and cordless.

A remote-mount detector is mounted permanently to your car, ensuring an installation that is clean and almost undetectable by thieves.

A corded detector is usually mounted on the car's windshield using suction cups and is considered to provide the best kind of protection.

A cordless detector, on the other hand, is easily transported between cars, and gives an installation that is cleaner than its corded counterparts.

City Mode. City mode is a very important feature because it lessens the sensitivity of your radar detector, especially in the city, such that you get a lesser number of false alerts.

Laser Detection. A radar detector with a laser sensor detects beams in front of the car, but not on your sides or behind. Three hundred sixty degrees of laser detection, on the other hand, assures you of more protection since there are a couple of sensors to watch out for pulses on your sides, as well as the rear. It is more reliable, but of course, more costly.

Spectre and VG-2 Protection. These shielding features are important since they inform the motorist if the police have a Radar Detector Detector (RDD). Spectre is considered as a more sophisticated RDD technology and is being used by several Canadian states. Some detector models provide Stealth, a kind of protection that warns the driver and turns off the radar detector. Pricier models provide Invisible, a kind of protection that shields the radar detectors from Spectre, VG-2, or both, such that they will continue working without being traced.

Digital Voice Alert. More modern versions are equipped with digital voice alerts that will inform the driver of any laser, beam, or pulse that they were able to pick up. No need for the hurried motorist to take his eyes off the road and examine the display of your radar detector.

Instant-On Protection. The truth is you can no longer defend yourself if Instant-On radar has already been aimed at your vehicle. Your speed will already have been measured by the time you are alerted by your radar detector. However, if another vehicle was the target of radar, a radar detector with Instant-On Protection will be more K-band receptive and sensitive, such that you will be alerted right on time to slow down. It is this K-band receptivity that allows manufacturer promotion of Instant-On Protection from radars.

There you go - everything you need to know about the benefits of using radar detectors, how they work, as well as the features that you should look out for in them. Go ahead. Make yourself and your vehicle safe.

(From an article by By Mario Chompass )

Changing to a different motor oil

I have heard that if you have used the same motor oil for the life of the car, then the best recommendation is to continue to use the same oil. Is this so?

Not so, switching over from petroleum oil to synthetic oil is one of the simplest and easiest ways to increase fuel mileage, power and engine longevity. The only time it isn’t recommended is when your engine has been neglected and you have a major buildup of sludge inside the engine. Since the synthetic is a highly detergent oil a bunch of sludge might come off and plug up the oil pump intake screen and cause catastrophic engine failure. Otherwise you can change over to synthetic slowly. Put in a quart, run it till your oil change interval comes around. Next time put in 2 quarts run it and at the next oil change then change to 100% synthetic oil.

Hybrid Things to Know

Hybrid vehicles of all types are becoming fairly commonplace sights -- but there's still a lot of mystery (and misinformation) about what hybrids can and can't -- or shouldn't -- be asked to do.

Q: If I run out gas, can't I just drive to the next gas station on the batteries?

A: Absolutely not. Doing so risks completely discharging the hybrid battery pack, which could mean you end up having to pay for a complete replacement (at a cost of potentially several thousand dollars in a worst case scenario). Never drive a hybrid with an empty gas tank.

Q: What's the "Regenerative Braking"?

A: Hybrids recharge their battery packs in two ways. Electricity is generated by the operation of the internal combustion engine -- and by recycling the kinetic energy of forward motion that would otherwise be lost as heat through braking. This is known as regenerative braking.

Q: Why would anyone buy a hybrid SUV or luxury-performance vehicle? Isn't the point of the exercise saving fuel?

A: Yes, exactly. While hybrid SUVs, pick-ups and luxury-performance cars may not be as fuel-efficient as a compact economy car, they have the potential to be far more fuel efficient than they might otherwise be. Not everyone can get by with a compact economy sedan. Some buyers need the extra room/capability of a larger vehicle -- or simply want more luxury or better performance -- just not the sky-high gas bills that often come with that. Hybrid drivetrains in SUVs, pick-ups and luxury-performance cars let these buyers have their cake and eat it, too.

Q: What is a "mild" hybrid?

A: There are two types of hybrids currently on the market. So-called "mild" hybrids are hybrids that operate primarily on their internal combustion engines. The vehicles operate in pure electric mode only when the vehicles are stopped in traffic. Sometimes, the electric motor acts as a "pusher" when vehicle is being accelerated -- but the vehicle never drives on battery/electric power alone. "Full" hybrids, on the other hand, can be driven at speeds up to about 30 mph on battery power alone -- with the gas engine coming online only when higher speeds (or loads, as when accelerating rapidly) signal the onboard electronics that additional power is required. Mild hybrids typically offer a 5-10 percent potential fuel efficiency increase over an otherwise similar non-hybrid vehicle. Full hybrids can achieve much higher fuel efficiency -- 20-40 percent better than an otherwise equivalent non-hybrid vehicle.

Q: Do hybrids have different warranties than regular cars?

A: Yes. Most new hybrids have special warranties that cover hybrid-specific components, including the battery pack and electric motor(s). This "separate" warranty is usually longer than the warranty on the non-hybrid components of the car. Typically, hybrid components are covered for at least eight years and 100,000 miles.

Q: Are hybrids cost-effective?

A: It depends. The typical hybrid costs about two to three thousand dollars more than an otherwise equivalent non-hybrid version of the same vehicle. If you drive a great deal (especially in stop-and-go city-type driving, where a hybrid is at its most efficient) or gas prices go up considerably over the time you own the vehicle, then you may quickly make up the higher up-front costs in over-the-road savings. On the other hand, if your driving is mostly at higher speeds, on highways (where a hybrid is least efficient), don't put that many miles on your vehicle -- and gas prices don't go up from where they are at the time of this writing (about $2.25 per gallon for regular unleaded) then you may never break even on your hybrid vehicle purchase. It's important to do the math for your specific situation, type of driving -- and so on -- before you come to any decision.

From An Article By Eric Peters

Rental cars- Are they good buys?

Are former rental cars good buys because rental fleets are well maintained and serviced according to strict "severe service" intervals?

NO! In order to hold down costs the rental car companies maintain their fleets following the least amount of maintenance, not severe service, in order to still maintain the manufacturer’s warranty. Most of these cars are used for short trips to and from the motel, airport, and can wind up with severe engine oil sludging. In addition many rental cars will always consume oil because they were never properly broken in during the first 500 miles of operation.

I had a great day

Just a quick note about something that happened to me that most of us old-timers could appreciate. It seems that some young boys in the area have been working on a 1968 Dodge Coronet that their grandfather had in the barn. They were cleaning it up and doing minor body repairs to it. They are taking body shop at the Votech School and this is their project. They were having problems starting and keeping it running. One of my neighbors told their dad and he told them that I use to work on those old beauties, so they contacted me.
I checked it out and to make a long story short, the car needed a major tune up, which consisted of points, condenser, plugs, plug wires, fuel and air filter. I never got rid of most of the stock I had when I was in business so I had most of the parts I needed, yes I even had a set of points and condenser. I dusted off the old tach and dwell meter and set up the ignition. The boys set the gaps on the plugs and put them in, I of course supervised. Fired up that old 318 and set the timing and adjusted the carb and it sounded pretty good. Were going to have to rebuild the carb as the accelerator pump and gaskets need replacing but for an engine that is almost forty years old, it sure sounded good to me.
If you could have seen the look on those boys faces when that car started and ran. It was worth more than words can say to this old boy.

Replacement bulbs for Xenon-headlight equipped cars

I have heard that Replacement bulbs for Xenon-headlight equipped cars might not match colors, making the headlights appear as if they are shining in two different colors. In order to get the same matching color characteristics, should I always replace both Xenon bulbs at the same time, in pairs?

No! At $180 a bulb, that can be a big mistake. All that's needed is to allow the new bulb operate for a week or so as they take some time to break in and develop their characteristic factory "blue" color.

Eight Biggest Do-It-Yourself Mistakes

Do-it-yourself repair work can save you time and money -- in addition to giving you a lot of satisfaction. But you have to be careful to avoid beginner's mistakes, which can end up costing you more in time and money than you would have spent farming the work out to a professional mechanic -- and sour you on the idea of ever getting under the hood yourself again.

These include:

* Randomly pulling parts before you know what's wrong -- This is a common beginner's mistake that quickly leads to frustration and an empty wallet. Doctors don't begin treatment before evaluating the patient and making a diagnosis. It should be no different with any automotive "operation." Find out what's wrong first -- then fix it.

* Attempting a repair without having a shop manual to refer to -- Easily the number two pratfall on any list of beginner DIY mistakes. Never disassemble components without knowing how they fit back together, etc. A shop manual will typically have schematics, photos, diagrams and so on -- as well as a step-by-step procedure for each repair. "Winging it" without the manual is about as bright as trying to prepare an elaborate gourmet dinner you've never made before -- without the cookbook.

* Not using the proper tools -- This is commonplace because few beginners have a full set of mechanic's tools; in particular, the often specialized equipment needed to properly perform certain diagnostic and repair procedures. Using the wrong tool can lead to physical damage of the part being worked on -- in addition to skinned knuckles and a lot of cursing. If specialized tools are required, be sure you have access to them -- and know how to use them properly.

* Not having the right place to work -- It's important to have a safe, secure area to work on your vehicle. The shopping mall parking lot isn't it. A covered space with good lighting is ideal. And if you need to raise the vehicle, make sure it is parked on a level (and solid) surface, not grass. Beginners get killed or badly injured every year when an improperly supported car either rolls on top of them or slips off the jack stands and crushes them.

* Rushing it -- Deciding to tear your car apart late Sunday afternoon but needing to have it ready to make the commute Monday morning is a recipe for disaster. And a common beginner DIY mistake. Always allot sufficient time to finish the job; don't try to emulate a NASCAR pit crew. Those guys have it down to a science and have many years of experience. You don't. Expect delays as a result of things you didn't anticipate -- such as needing to get a part in the middle of the job, or spending an hour on getting at a bolt you thought you'd be able to remove in a minute or two.

* Getting mad -- This mistake often springs from the loins of the other mistakes already listed. You've got the car's guts all over the driveway and have no idea how to get them back together. Or you lost something. Or something's not fitting right. Whatever. This kind of thing happens to professional mechanics, too. The difference between them and a ranting do-it-yourselfer is the pro knows when to step away for a minute, have a cup of coffee, a smoke -- whatever -- and relax about it.

* Rigging it -- It can be tempting to "home engineer" a fix that isn't quite what the manual called for, but seems like it ought to work. This is ok in an emergency -- as when you're dealing with a broken down car in the middle of nowhere and just need to get it to run long enough to get you somewhere -- but don't do it otherwise. It can be tempting, sure -- but more often than not, the "fix" ends up causing more problems than it solved. Do it the right way, "by the book."

* Refusing to ask for help -- Pride definitely goes before the fall, in politics and car repair alike. Even the best of us don't know everything; the smart among us know it's no sign of weakness to ask someone who does. Just the opposite. If you can't figure out what the manual says, or are having trouble getting something to work, there is no shame in seeking the counsel of others, be they more experienced friends, online resources -- even a professional mechanic at a car dealership, etc. (They're often quite willing to help out; it just takes your having the guts to go up and ask them.)


(From an article by Eric Peters )

Do Synthetic oils have a molecular structure that can cause leaks?

It is widely known that all Synthetic oils have a molecular structure that is much smaller than conventional oils and therefore synthetic oils must use seal swelling additives in order to stop the oil from leaking out. Is this so?

NO! Synthetic oils are unique that there structure is more uniform then petroleum oils not smaller. In Petroleum oils the molecules are larger and not as even in size as synthetic oils. Just because synthetic oils have more uniform molecules in size, has nothing to do with seal failure or oil leaks. For example, the Olefins in Mobil 1 tend to cause seal shrinkage and seal swelling additives are used to counteract this tendency of like group IV synthetics. However ester based lubricants group V’s (example: Neo)tend to cause seals to expand, and the need for seal swelling agents is totally unnecessary.

Alternative Ticket Fighting Strategies

You've probably read articles about fighting traffic tickets -- but the reality is many of us (probably most of us) just don't have the money to hire a lawyer -- or the time/expertise (let alone gumption) to actually challenge a ticket on our own.

There are some alternatives, however.

* Plead "guilty -- with explanation":

Sometimes, you can get a reduced charged by pleading guilty -- but with an explanation. Provided you have an otherwise clean record --and the charge itself is relatively minor -- often, this can yield good results.

Remember -- what they want most is money. The charge itself is of secondary importance.

A great deal depends on the judge, however. Some are hard cases; others more reasonable. Before you decide to go this route, it's smart to get to court early and watch how your judge handles other cases -- especially those similar to your own. If you think, based on his actions, that he's going to throw the book at you -- you can always request a continuance; in many states, these are granted automatically upon request. Simply tell the judge you are not ready to go to trial. A continuance will push your court date off for another few weeks or so and give you time to prepare a defense -- or hire a lawyer.

* Bargain

Traffic court's a lot like buying a new car -- because there's lots of haggling involved. You can ask the judge (or the prosecuting/commonwealth's attorney) about the possibility of agreeing to attend driving school and/or pay a fine in return for dropping the charge against you -- or changing the charge to a non-moving violation, which avoids DMV "points" being assigned to your driving record. That means your insurance company won't have a pretext for a rate hike. In some counties/states, certain charges aren't reported to the DMV at all -- especially if it's an out-of-state ticket. (Mostly, these include non-moving violations such as "defective equipment" -- a common "lesser charge" that's often assigned in lieu of the original moving violation.)

The key thing, however, is to avoid the moving violation conviction -- even if it means paying a larger fine than you'd otherwise have paid for just the ticket/offense you were originally charged with. A one-time hit to your wallet is infinitely preferable to having that ticket held against you for anywhere from three to five years -- the length of time it will be on your DMV record -- and used by your insurance company to justify higher premiums. The total cost of a single moving violation on your DMV record can easily exceed the one-time hit of a fine for "defective equipment" (or whatever) many times over. And keep in mind: If you should be unlucky enough to receive another ticket before the old one "drops off" -- your jeopardy has just doubled. The points stack up -- and your insurance goes through the roof. How likely is it you can go for another five years without gettting nailed again? For many of us, that's a virtual impossibility!

(As an aside, it's possible in some states to take the DMV-authorized "driving school" online -- and avoid the hassle of spending an entire Saturday re-living high school detention. See http://www.trafficschoolonline.com for more information.)

Bottom line: Either of these alternatives -- pleading guilty with an explanation or bargaining your way to a lesser charge -- can be more cost-effective than hiring a lawyer or spending days/weeks of your own time doing what's necessary to fight the ticket yourself. Most of us have jobs and responsibilities that make that very difficult, if not impossible. And it can be very intimidating for a layman to go up against the system, subpoenaing records, questioning the ticketing officer in open court -- and so on. By challenging the system in this way, one also runs the very real risk of antagonizing the court -- and becoming the target of an angry judge looking to "teach someone a lesson." It's true you can always appeal a conviction (in many states, a traffic law case may even entitle you to a jury trial, if you want to take it that far). But that involves yet more time, yet more expense. How much of either can you afford to spend on a traffic ticket beef?

Yes, there's the principle involved. If it's a really unjust ticket, you may be motivated to go all the way -- and do whatever it takes to beat the rap. But sometimes, it's smart to pick your battles -- and go for the best outcome you can realistically hope for given time and other constraints.

Refueling Fires

Not to be argumentative but, I take exception to
the answer and the reasons given.

Safety is my foremost goal, I want to be sure that
everyone still shuts-down their car while refueling
for the utmost in safety.

While I do agree that static discharge is probably the
most common reason for refueling fires, I disagree with
a "mythbuster" type attitude that refueling fires don't
or can't happen because of a running engine.

Gasoline is NOTHING TO BE TAKEN LIGHTLY!

I've personally been in two gasoline fires in
my career and want you to understand that there
is NO WARNING of the ignition and fire and NO TIME
and NO WAY 'undue' the event!

Here is the question and rationale that goes with the answer for those
that may have missed it in the monthly quiz:

***QUOTE***
3)True or false:

A car could catch fire if you don't turn off the engine while refueling.

False: In the old days that was a problem because of the potential of the
engine back firing, with gas fumes present. Today, modern engines do not
backfire. Outside of static electricity problems modern cars could have
a problem with evaporative emissions systems sensing a problem and
turning on a check engine light, which in most cases would reset itself
in time once the gas cap is replaced.
***END-QUOTE***

Now some real world FACTS to consider.

In my decades of servicing automobiles and trucks I have
personally witnessed:
*More than a dozen cars or light trucks that unexpectedly and
spontaneously suffered a wiring fire IN MY BAY.
*AT LEAST ONE CAR A MONTH that is backfiring (dismisses the above
assumption that modern cars don't backfire).
*Many dozens of cars or light trucks that unexpectedly and
spontaneously began leaking or spraying fuel IN MY BAY.

You guessed it, they were all running!


Some reference info...
www.pei.org
http://www.quiktrip.com/gasoline/gasoline_safety.asp

Both of the above sites are authoritative.
You'll find that both of them recommend to turn off the engine
while refueling.

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3988/is_200410/ai_n9470573

Here is a quote from the findarticles site:
* As of March 2004, 39 states had reported fires to the Petroleum
Equipment Institute (PEI). The number of fires that have occurred may
not be accurate as some fires are extinguished quickly and never
reported. However, fires continue to occur.

* Wearing rubber soled shoes does not protect the consumer during
refueling. It insulates the wearer, making it more difficult to
discharge static buildup to the ground.

* On the average, it takes only 1 to 3 minutes to refuel an automobile
(a full-size SUV, 3 to 5 minutes).

* Gasoline vapors are heaver than air. As gasoline is dispensed into
the vehicle fill pipe, the vapors fall to the ground. If a vehicle is
running, these vapors can migrate under the vehicle where the engine
fan can circulate the vapor/air mixture over the engine and other
ignition sources. Beyond the issue of static, a running car presents a
number of "ignition sources" for fuel vapor:

* The exhaust components of a modern car literally can glow red hot
during normal operation.

* The typical ignition system creates above 40,000 volts.

* Starting a vehicle during refueling can result in a flash fire if
the gasoline vapors are near the starter and alternator when it is
engaged.

* One gallon of gasoline is equivalent to 20 sticks of dynamite.

* Gasoline can produce vapors than can ignite at all temperatures,
even at -45°F
...*End of quote*...

Also, there are still vehicles that are equipped or sometimes
retrofitted with "spark arrestors" on the tailpipe.
That should tell us something...

Be safe,

Mike.

Is there a difference between brands of gasoline?

It doesn't matter what brand of gasoline you use in your vehicle today, because all gasoline is about the same? This is not true anymore with the advent of Top Tier Gasoline. Currently, many gasoline retailers provide fuels with lower-quality additive packages that can build up deposits on fuel injectors and on intake valves. Others can build up deposits in combustion chambers and may lead to intake valve sticking. These lower levels of additives can have negative impacts on engine performance and vehicle responsiveness.

Here is a list of Top Tier Gasolines. Make sure your buying your gas from one of them, to avoid the problems mentioned above!

QuikTrip
Chevron
Conoco
Phillips
76
Shell
Entec Stations
MFA Oil Company
Kwik Trip/Kwik Star
The Somerset Refinery, Inc.
Chevron-Canada
Aloha Petroleum
Tri-Par Oil Company
Shell-Canada
Texaco
Petro-Canada
Sunoco-Canada

To learn more visit http://www.toptiergas.com

What To Avoid When Buying Your Next Car

Buying a car can be quite a process. Not only do you have to find a car you like and haggle for the best price, you have to worry about how you will pay for it. So many people have such high car payments that they struggle to pay their bills. They fall back on credit cards. They think that the cards are the problem, when in fact the car payment is at the foundation of their troubles.

When you are looking to buy a car, you need to know how much you can really afford to spend. You should spend no more than 15% of your after-tax monthly income on your car payments. Your car payments shouldn't exceed this amount.

If your family must have more than one vehicle, focus on having one good family vehicle that has a loan on it and one that is paid off. Two car payments at once are really pushing it for most people. For example, if you make around $40,000 before-taxes each year, you shouldn't be spending any more than $400 a month on your car payments. That doesn't get you to far.

Keep in mind that there is more to a car than the monthly payment for the loan. You will also have insurance to pay for. This can vary depending on the make, model and your area. Some vehicles also have higher repair and maintenance costs. Consider these costs when choosing the type of vehicle you are looking to purchase. And don't forget gasoline expenses!

If money is an issue for your family, a used car is really the best deal out there. New cars depreciate so quickly within the first two years. A used car really is a better deal. If you really want a new vehicle or are concerned about warranties, look for a vehicle that really holds its value well.

You need to know how to handle yourself when it comes to financing. You should always be prepared. Go home and work out the figures before you sit down with the finance manager. Know if the rebate or low interest rate is a better deal. Look closely at choosing the shortest loan as possible. If you can pay off the loan in 36 months, you are choosing the best financial option.

Be careful when buying a car. If a manager pushes you to move too fast, walk away for a while. Slow things down and really let the numbers add up. Don't let them change the numbers around for tax purposes (to save you money). Take your time and make sure that you are getting what you want.

Cracks in a serpentine belt! Is this an indication to replace it?

The presence of small cracks in a serpentine belt are not an indication the belt is about to fail and needs to be replaced. Widely spaced small cracks are acceptable on ribbed serpentine belts. Some indications of potential serpentine belt failures include:

a. Three or more cracks within a 3-inch section of the belt.

b. Cracks extending from the tips of the ribs to the belt body.

c. Chunks of the ribs are missing.

d. There is a buildup of belt material between the ribs.

How To Wire Your Car For Trailer Lights

With summer around the corner there will be a lot of people pulling those campers and trailers. Make sure you get those lights wired and working correctly.

What you will need:

12 Volt Test Light
Heavy Duty 12V Flasher
Wire Crimper or Pliers
Trailer Light Connector
Electrical Tape
Before You Start:

Follow these instructions carefully. Read and be sure you understand them before you begin. Gather together all of your tools and supplies before you begin. Allow plenty of time to do the job so you don't have to hurry. Remember that these are general instructions. For more detailed instructions pertaining to your specific vehicle, consult an appropriate repair manual.

Safety is important whenever you're working around machinery. Beware of hot objects, sharp instruments and hazardous materials. Don't substitute tools unless you're sure you won't compromise either your safety or the performance of your vehicle. Never work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Use jack stands to support the vehicle while you work. Work on a solid, level surface. Never jack a car up on dirt or grass.

Wiring your vehicle for trailer lights is easy and only takes a few minutes. Most factory and custom built trailers are wired with a flat 4-wire, quick connect receptacle. There are two basic types of this connector available - a shield type and the standard type, either of which is compatible with the other. The wires on either type of receptacle are color coded - white, yellow, green and brown. The most common or widely used wiring code is:

Brown wire to the tail or parking lights
Green wire to right turn signal/stoplight
Yellow wire to the left turn signal/stoplight
White wire to common or chassis ground

An exception to this wiring code is if your vehicle has a 5-wire system that incorporates an amber or separate turn signal light in the rear of your vehicle. In this case you will need to purchase a trailer light converter that adapts the trailer's 4-wire system to your vehicle's wire system. They are available at your nearest Auto Store and come with complete and detailed wiring instructions. Just ask an experienced sales person for assistance.

Several types of wiring kits are available, from the basic economical kit with plug-ins and wire, to the deluxe kit that comes complete with chrome mounting brackets. Choose the kit that best fits your need and your pocketbook. The first step for wiring your vehicle for trailer lights is to locate the taillight wiring harness.

Most taillight wiring is accessible from inside the trunk or near the rear bumper. Next, find a suitable spot to connect the quick connect harness to, and double check to make sure the harness is long enough to reach the connector on the trailer. If additional wire or connectors are needed, just ask, your nearest Auto Store should have what you need.

Next, connect the clip end of the test light to a good, clean metal chassis ground. Next, turn the headlight switch to the headlamp/parking lamp "ON" position. With the test light, probe the wires (Figure 3) until the test light comes on and stays on. Connect the brown wire to that wire with a quick connector (usually supplied with the kit). Remember to turn off the headlights once connected.

Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" or "RUN" position and activate the right turn signal. Once again, probe the wires with the test light until the light flashes. This wire will be the right turn signal and right brake light wire. Connect the yellow wire to this wire. Turn off the ignition.

With the ignition switch still in the "RUN" position, activate the left turn signal. Once again, probe the wires with the test light until the light flashes. This wire will be the left turn signal and left brake light wire. Connect the yellow wire to this wire. Turn off the ignition.

The last wire to connect is the white wire. Locate a good metal chassis ground and connect the white wire there using sheet metal screw, or attach it to an existing ground wire. Your installation is complete.

Now hook the harness to the trailer connector and check all the lights for proper operation. If not all lights work at first, double check the quick connectors for proper connector or check the trailer light bulbs. You may want to tape all connections with electrical tape to help ensure trouble-free connections in the future. Place the wired trailer connector back in the trunk or secure underneath the car, clear from any exhaust pipes or road obstructions.

Remember to double check trailer lights every time you hook up to your trailer and recheck them about every 100 miles when towing. I would also suggest you install a heavy-duty turn signal flasher to carry the additional electrical load of the trailer lights.