Mass Air flow Sensors(MAF) & cleaning

The mass airflow sensor is placed in the stream of intake air. It measures the intake flow rate by measuring a part of the entire intake flow. It consists of a hot wire that is supplied with electric current from the ECM. The temperature of the hot wire is controlled by the ECM a certain amount. The heat generated by the hot wire is reduced as the intake air flows around it. The more air, the greater the heat loss. Therefore, the ECM must supply more electric current to maintain the temperature of the hot wire as airflow increases. The ECM detects the airflow by means of this current change.

The Mass Air Flow sensor is a very delicate sensor.
Between very fine dirt and the trend towards oiled filters it's very important to keep the MAF clean. MAF sensors also can get contaminated from a variety of sources: dirt, oil, silicon, spider webs, potting compound from the sensor itself, etc. When a MAF sensor gets contaminated, it skews the transfer function such that the sensor over-estimates air flow at idle (causes the fuel system to go rich) and under-estimates air flow at high air flows (causes fuel system to go lean). This means Long Term Fuel Trims will learn lean (negative) corrections at idle and learn rich (positive) corrections at higher airflows.

In the past there really was not any safe way of cleaning them without risk of damaging them. Today CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner is the safe and an effective alternative to using aggressive chemicals like brake parts cleaners or carburetor cleaners.

Tips to ensure you get the car service you pay for:

_ Always get a written estimate for parts and labors.

_ Make sure the estimate states that the shop will contact you for approval before performing any work exceeding a specified amount of time or money.

_ When you pick up your car, ask the service manager to explain all work completed and all replacements made.

_ Get a completed repair order describing the work done. It should list each repair, parts supplied, the cost of each part, labor charges, and the vehicle's odometer reading when you brought the vehicle in as well as when the repair order was completed.

_ Ask for all replaced parts and that any major new parts that have been installed be pointed out to you, if possible.

_ If the shop guarantees its work, get the guarantee in writing.

Tires, date codes, & Tire Industry Association (TIA)

Weathering and ozone cracking causes superficial cracks on
the sidewall surface around the tire circumference.
This condition is typical of tires which have
been in service for a long time.
You should check the date code on the tire.
To find the tire date code look on the
sidewall for a stamped string of letters
and numbers following the DOT.


The last four digits of the string indicate the week and year of
manufacture (e.g. 3206 would be the 32nd week of 2006).
Tire cracks can also come from exposure to ozone from
sunlight or storage next to ozone sources (e.g. electrical
equipment, air purifiers, vehicle exhaust).
According to the Tire Industry Association (TIA),
other possible causes include use of damaging tire
cleaning/dressing products, improper
inflation pressure, exposure to excessive heat, or by long
term parking when the tire is under load and deflected.


If the cracking is superficial they can be continued in
use, according to the TIA. For safety reasons, discard
tires over 6 years old or with less than 50%
remaining tread. Discard any tires wherecracking is
severe or structural material (i.e. cord) is visible

Are Hybrid Electric Vehicles The Answer To The Out Of Control Fuel Prices?

Major car manufacturers have made claims that the hybrids are the vehicles of the future. This is due to the demand that people are now making as a way of negotiating the overpriced gas prices that have risen steadily over the past few years. The hybrid vehicle is certainly the solution that many people have been searching for.

Gas prices have increased so dramatically over the recent years that many people are using public vehicles as way of going about their everyday lives instead of using their cars. So are hybrid electric vehicles the answer?

It appears so as since the launch of hybrid vehicles and promise of cost savings the sales for many hybrid cars were much higher than expected. It is fully understandable that many people have keenly awaited the launch of the hybrid automobiles on the car market.

It's time to discuss the technical aspects of the hybrid. Such vehicles are generally referred by that name if they run on joint power. Which is currently petrol and electricity which is stored in large capacity batteries.

The reason why hybrid cars save fuel is because the car is not permanently running on petrol. There are time when the car is powered by the electricity from the batteries. This is the reason why the consumption of gasoline is dramatically lowered thus reducing the petrol bills of the owner.

Over the years the technology that is involved in making a hybrid cars is constant evolving which is helping the manufactures make significant strides in modifying and making continuous improvements.

Hybrid vehicles use a rechargeable energy storage system that is also referred to as RESS which comes with a propeller that supplies the fueled propulsion power that drives the car. Other countries refer to the hybrid automobile as a petroleum electric hybrid which also goes by the name of hybrid electric vehicle that use petrol to help provide the cars internal combustion engines, technical term being ICEs and the electric batters provide the requirement to power the electrical motors.

The major car companies from all over the world are currently in tight race to produce hybrid cars on a large scale. They seem to believe that hybrid electric vehicles the answer to many commuters large gasoline bills. The competition is getting so stiff that these types of cars are becoming more intensely marketed with the cars becoming more stylish.

Opportunities do really come in time of crises so giant car makers are rushing to each offer the consumers their own hybrid car versions and models and at the same time, underpin rising demand for such cars, equating logically to higher sales and company revenues.

Japan's Honda and Toyota corps are definitely market leaders in the race to control the hybrid car market not only in Japan but in US and many other countries from around the world. The price increase of petrol is playing a key part but also people are becoming more aware of the environment issues that arise from driving a regular vehicle on a daily basis.

Other car manufacturers follow suit, and it is expected that in the next couple of years, more and more hybrid vehicles are to be unveiled in the market by the two car makers and their aggressive competitors.

No wonder, because hybrid vehicles are tagged not only as oil and cost-saving cars but also as environment-friendly vehicles. Yes, you read it right.

Because hybrid vehicles have reduced gasoline consumption, it follows that smoke and greenhouse gas emissions are also significantly reduced.

Buying a hybrid vehicle is like killing two birds with one stone. Now only will you be saving on oil and gasoline costs but you will also be playing your part in saving the environment by cutting down on gas emissions that are having a very negative affect on the earths atmosphere.

Road Force Variation & Measurement

Road Force Measurement is new to the automotive service industry. This new measurement identifies tire and wheel uniformity, which has been measured for years in assembly plants and manufacturing facilities. Road Force can be used to solve uniformity related tire and wheel vibrations. Tire/wheel assembly uniformity can only be measured under load. The load roller on the GSP9700 performs a computer simulated "road test". It measures the tire/wheel assembly to determine how "round" the assembly is when rolling under a load. If a tire were not exposed to the road surface, then balance would be more than sufficient. However, not all tires roll round under a load. For example, an egg-shaped tire/wheel assembly can be balanced about its axis, but an egg-shaped tire-wheel loaded against a surface would not give a smooth ride.

Explained another way. If you were to drill a hole through a concrete block in such a manner that you could attach it to a spin-balancer, you could, by adding or subtracting weight make that concrete block spin smoothly with absolutely no vibration. Now take that same concrete block, or more specifically 4 of them, and attach them to your vehicle. Smooth ride? No!

To understand the effects of radial force variation on vibration, a model of a tire can be used. The sidewall and footprint can be understood as a collection of springs between the rim and the tire contact patch. If the "springs" are not of uniform stiffness, a varied force is exerted on the axle and causes it to move up and down as the tire rotates and flexes. This movement creates a vibration in the vehicle unrelated to balance.


Getting back to the Hunter GSP9700. It solves vibration problems balancing can't fix!
The machine works through a large roller which is pushed against the tread of the tire with 700 pounds of force as the tire rotates. During this force application cycle there are micro-sensors inside the machine that monitor variances in road force. A computer in the machine converts these readings into numbers for the technician. These numbers tell if the tire is good or bad and also if the road force variation can be brought into spec by rotating the tire on the wheel. Sounds complicated, but only to a point. In the hands of a trained technician the job can be performed without a hitch. By having this done, you instantly know
– are the tires good
– are the tires bad
– do I need to replace the tires
– do I need to matchmount the tires
– do I need to look elsewhere in the car.

You can view a video of how the Hunter GPS9700 works on the following link.
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/images/video/gsp9700_T1_video.cfm

Black & Decker BB7B Simple Start Battery Booster

Now here is a great Stocking stuffer for the Holidays! Give your car battery a boost from inside the comfort of your car with Simple Start new from Black & Decker. No jumper cables to mess with, no way to improperly connect, no voltage surges that can damage your car's computer! So simple anyone can hook it up and in a few minutes your battery is ready to start your car!

Simply insert the Simple Start’s DC adapter into the car’s 12 volt DC outlet and wait several minutes. A boost indicator LED and audible beep lets you know when your battery is charged and ready to start.

In my opinuin a great present to give someone for the holidays.
The Simple Start Battery Booster From Black & Decker:

. Charges & starts vehicle in minutes through car’s 12V DC accessory outlet
. 12 volt DC charging port for charging cell phones
. 2 LED area light built-in for emergency use
. Compact design for storage; fits in most glove compartments
. Rechargeable from 12 volt DC vehicle outlet or 120 volt AC household charger, in charge mode

Auto Industry's 10 Best and Worst Cars for Depreciation

Cars, unlike parcels of land, do not appreciate in value over time. They normally depreciate. Moreover, vehicle owners have to know the cars that hold value best. Which cars do not easily depreciate? According to the Consumer Reports' depreciation ratings, import brands lead in car resale value while the domestic models are on the adverse position.

It was found out that those affordably priced cars like the Toyota Prius hybrid, Scion vehicles and Mini Cooper hold their value better than sports and luxury vehicles in the market. The best cars are made by either Japanese or European nameplates. On the other hand, the worst cars with high depreciation are mostly domestic brands, which are commonly used by rental companies and fleets.

The best and worst cars in depreciation are rated by Consumer Reports based on the difference between the MSRP of a 2004 model when new and its present retail value. The average depreciation was approximately 45 percent over the first 3 years. Those cars that belong to the top 10 are above average while those at the bottom are below average. The Manufacturer Suggested Retail Prices (MSRP) of the cars were rounded to the nearest $500.

The best car depreciating rating was given to Toyota Prius. As a fact, there is an overwhelming demand for this particular car. Toyota parts for Prius were further improved by several upgrades that include extra batteries, stealth mode, chargers and solar panels. A used Prius can be had at approximately $22,000. The top 10 best cars for depreciation are Toyota Prius, Mini Cooper ($17,500 to $25,500), Scion xB ($14,000 to $15,000), BMW M3 ($49,000 to $56,500), Lexus RX ($36,000 to $46,000), BMW 6-Series ($72,000 to $79,000), Lexus GX ($46,500), Acura TSX ($30,000), Scion xA ($13,000 to $13,500), and Honda Civic & Civic Hybrid ($14,500 to $24,500).

The worst car in depreciation is Ford Freestar, which has replaced Ford Windstar. Last year, the sales figure of the car was down by 20 percent. Now it has a depreciation value of $19,500 to $29,500 far below the average. Next to Ford Freestar are Ford Crown Victoria ($24,500 to $27,500), Buick Rainier ($31,500 to $33,500), Lincoln Town Car ($42,000 to $50,500), Dodge Caravan/Grand Caravan ($18,500 to $27,500), Mercury Grand Marquis ($25,000 to $29,500), GMC Envoy ($26,500 to $37,000), Ford Explorer ($26,500-$36,000), Buick Rendezvous ($25,000 to $28,500), and Chrysler Town & Country ($21,500 to $36,000).

A great tool-The Magnetic Finger!

Here is a Neat Item for anyone who works on cars, trucks, airplanes, boats, Street Rods, upholstery, sewing or any other application where small ferrous metal parts are a problem to hold in place or position.
Where can you get it? http://magneticfinger.com/

Avoiding Repair Shop Rip-Offs

Avoiding Repair Shop Rip-Offs

* Be sure the shop is competent -- While outright fraud and rip-offs are still very real dangers, an equally real and equally dangerous one is simple ineptitude. Modern computer-controlled vehicles are incredibly complex pieces of equipment; if the guy under the hood lack the skills and tools to properly diagnose and fix whatever the problem is, he'll often just hunt and peck -- pulling parts (at your expense) and "fixing" things that probably don't need to be fixed. Meanwhile, your original problem's still a problem, even though you've been back to the shop two or three times now already. Look for ASE-certified (National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence) technicians. Ask for recommendations from friends and family -- people you trust. Avoid shops that look unprofessional and downtrodden -- and check with your local consumer affairs department for any history of complaints lodged against a shop you're considering doing business with.

* Get a second opinion -- As with buying a car, rush decisions when it comes to authorizing repairs can come back to haunt you. Especially if your car has developed a sudden problem and you feel panicky about getting it fixed right this minute. It is always a good idea to get a second opinion (and an additional estimate), in particular for major work that may or may not be necessary. The value of getting a second opinion is two-fold: One, if the second shop confirms the opinion of the first shop as far as the problem is concerned, you can be reasonably confident that this is, in fact, what's actually wrong with the car. Two, if you get a second estimate your feel for what constitutes a fair price for the work will be much better. If the second shop's quote is much higher, you can go back to the first one (or ask the second shop why their estimate is so much higher). And if the two estimates are about the same, you can feel secure you're not being taken for a ride.

* Trust (but verify) -- The Gipper's formulation is just as applicable to car work as it is to missile treaties. So if you're taking your car in to get the tires rotated, it's a smart move to discretely mark one of the tires with some white chalk in a place no one would notice unless they knew where to look. Then, when you pick your car up, you can check to see whether the shop actually did rotate your tires. Similarly, pull the dipstick after an oil change to make sure you got what you paid for (fresh oil) and, if you can, mark the oil filter just as you would the tires -- so that you can be certain a new one was actually installed. (Some have recommended asking to see the parts that have been replaced as evidence the work was actually done -- but this can be easily gotten around by the simple expedient of picking up a grimy old part off the shop floor and presenting it to you as "your" old part. The only way to be sure is to mark the part yourself -- before it's removed -- then check to see whether the part you're shown has that mark on it.)

* Pre-shop repair shops -- For the same reason it's good to know the doctor who's about to cut into your chest, it's a smart move to look for a shop before you need one. There are excellent dealers and excellent independent shops -- but there are also terrible dealers and equally bad independents. Don't assume that just because it's "the dealer" that it must be good -- or that an independent shop isn't as good as a dealer because it doesn't have a Toyota or Ford sign on the door. Ask your friends and family about their experiences with local shops -- the good, the bad and the ugly. Most folks are more than willing to share their experiences (either way). Do some drive-bys of the shops you're thinking about doing business with -- and be wary of places where you see the same cars sitting for weeks (or months) on end. This could indicate a glacially slow work pace -- or (worse) unhappy customers who've had to keep bringing their vehicle back for "service." Stroll inside the office/waiting area of shops you're looking over -- and note whether the employees are friendly (or hostile and sullen) and the cleanliness of the work areas (places that look like run-down Soviet-era machine shops may not be the best place to take your car).

* Lastly, don't passively accept being taken -- Your final bill should always be within a few dollars of the estimate; never tolerate a final repair bill that's significantly higher than what you were quoted (unless you agreed to something after the estimate was written). It's neither ethical nor (usually) legal for a shop to charge you for additional work you didn't specifically authorize. If this happens to you, move up the food chain and complain. If it's a dealer, speak with the service manager (and if that doesn't work, the owner of the store -- and from there, complain directly to the affiliated automaker, such as Ford, etc.) If it's an independent shop, try the owner. If you don't reach an acceptable understanding, head straight for your local town/city's government offices and lodge a complaint with the consumer protection department. The shop may have your car -- but you have the money -- as well as the title to the car, so it can't easily be converted into cash and is just taking up space on the shop's floorspace. The longer everything drags out, the more it costs the shop. Usually, once they understand you won't take being taken advantage of without visiting a serious hassle on them in return, they'll come to the table and resolve the issue satisfactorily. It also should go without saying that the car should be fixed. Be sure the problem you brought the thing in for is actually no longer a problem -- before you pay for the work. Ask to take a quick test drive, if need be. Remember -- so long as you've still got your money, you're still holding all the cards!

Determining the time a 12 volt battery will remain viable!

Just before your battery gives out the alternator works overtime trying to keep up the proper voltage, which can cause excessive wear and tear on the charging system. Is there a way to avoid this excessive wear and yet get the most out of the life of your battery? The answer is yes!

The Midtronics battery tester, which measures the battery’s internal resistance and can actually predict the amount of time the battery will remain viable. Before the advent of internal resistance testing, the tech would apply a heavy load on the battery, which actually shortened its life. The Midtronics tester made load testing a battery antiquated. In just seconds the Midtronics tester can measure the overall health of the battery and doesn’t stress the battery. Read more at .. http://www.midtronics.com/battery/index.html