Testing Catalytic Converter efficiency

My car failed emissions test. My mechanic says it could be the catalytic converter, and there is no reliable way to test the catalytic converter. Is this so?



No! Converters consume oxygen in the catalytic process, which provides the basis for a simple (the test only takes a couple minutes) converter efficiency check referred to as an oxygen capture test. Using an exhaust gas analyzer the percentage of oxygen coming from the tailpipe of a fully warmed-up vehicle is measured at idle. Once the oxygen reading has stabilized the throttle is rapidly snapped open (full throttle) and then closed. Following the throttle snap there should be a slight increase in the amount of oxygen coming from the tailpipe. The allowable “slight increase” is typically 1.2%. If the oxygen increase exceeds the allowable limit the converter is almost always bad.

In a healthy converter the catalytic reaction consumes large quantities of oxygen. Therefore an excessive increase in oxygen at the tailpipe, following the snap test, indicates the converter has lost its ability to capture and use oxygen. Without capturing and consuming oxygen the catalytic reaction stalls and emissions climb. The oxygen capture test is quick, simple, and highly reliable.

Car Care Guide

I have heard that of all Drivers, 70 percent don’t winterize cars. Is this so
and where can I learn more about Winterizing and taking care of my car?

Yes! and it’s the sleigh and not your car that is supposed to dash through the snow, but if vehicles are not adequately prepared for winter, driving can be more stressful and treacherous. Many seem willing to take the chance, according to the Car Care Council that reports 70 percent of drivers don’t winterize their vehicles.

“Everyone is pressed for time, especially around the holidays, and the vehicle often gets neglected… until something happens. Winterizing is a proactive step that helps ensure safe and reliable driving during one of the busiest times of the year,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council.

Get a free copy, of the “CARE CARE GUIDE”, a free 56-page guide covering nine major service occasions and 12 component groups of your vehicle, plus service interval recommendations, a maintenance log and much more. at..

http://www.carcare.org/car_care_guide/consumer.asp

Expensive luxury car bumpers-Expensive to repair!

I have heard that the expensive luxury car bumpers are not made as you think, and don’t survive a low speed impact without major damage. Is this so?

Yes!. For example the hood of a Mercedes C-class(shown, left) caved in during an impact of a mere 6 mph, sustaining more then $5,000 in damage. Damage in the low 4 speed tests, totaled about $11,000 and the Mercedes was the third worst performer among the 11 luxury cars tested. The Acura TL was the second worst performer, sustaining more then $11,000 from bumper damage. The worst performer was the Infinity G35, which sustained an astounding $14,000 in the same 4 bumper tests.

See the video of low speed crash tests for midsize luxury cars at

http://www.iihs.org/video.aspx?f=releases/pr080207

Dashboard Fuel Pump Icon "Secret"

I have heard that if you look at your gas gauge, you will see a small icon of a gas pump. (see above) The handle of the gas pump will extend out on either the left or right side of the pump. If your fuel tank fill is on the left, the handle will be on the left. If it is on the right, the handle will be on the right. Is this so?

No!, The fuel pump icon handle quite often has no correlation with the location of the fuel filler. On some of the newer GM vehicles it might be so, but there are lots vehicles out there where this statement does not hold up!

Timing belt noises

I have heard that timing belts can develop a hard spot over time and can make noise when it passes over the pulleys. If so it should be replaced.

NO! Unlike tires timing belts do not develop an out of round or hard spot condition as they become worn. The belt tensioner can develop problems with the spring or bearing which can cause an annoying engine noise, but unlike tires the only way you know a timing belt is do for replacement is to keep track of the mileage and or years it's in use. A perfectly quiet and normal looking timing belt can strip out suddenly without any warning!

Using tire sealers such as "Fix-a-Flat"

I have heard that if a tire goes flat, is not safe to use one of the products such as "Fix-a-Flat. Is this so?

Yes and No! On the yes side, it would be a great idea, especially if you have a flat at night or in bad weather .However, if the inflator is flammable, you must warn the tire shop that the tire has tire sealer inside. There is a warning sticker which comes with the cans of the flammable stuff which you’re supposed to stick on the rim to warn the tech. There have been some pretty serious injuries caused by a spark setting off the flammable mixture when the tire tech breaks down the tire!

On the no side the tech must clean all the goop out of the tire before it can be repaired. Some shops may want to charge you extra for this service. Also, the tire sealer won’t help if you have a blowout, as it only can seal up relatively small leaks.

Using cooling system sealers on newly assembled engines!

I have heard that it is common for auto manufacturers to use cooling system sealers on newly assembled engines cooling system. Is this so?

Yes! Many GM cars come from the factory with cooling system sealers.They are used to guard against porosity seepage, to keep the facing of the water pump seal clean and to seal any minor leak that may accrue. Apellet type of sealer is used which dissolves in 5-10 minutes, becoming a fine powder that disperses through the coolant system. The sealer will pass through a .024-inch sieve to prevent blockage of the small tubes in many heater cores. Chrysler and Ford have been using such pellets too.One company that supplies the sealer(Bar's Leaks) is Bar's Products.

Taking care of CV boots

I have heard that you should not apply spray silicone to CV boots even thought it does preserve the rubber. Is this so?

Yes! Also, avoid using solvents, engine degreaser or brake cleaner on CV joint boots. Keep them clean with mild soap and water. While spray silicone is good to help preserve the rubber parts of your vehicle, but it shouldn’t be used on CV joints. It isn’t a good idea to put silicone, vinyl protectant (ArmorAll), or other type of petroleum product on CV boots. A problem is created when the protective coating attracts dirt which then sticks to the surface of the CV boot. Once the dirt clings to the CV joint, it acts like sandpaper on the CV joint bellows where the boot compresses. As the CV joint flexes, the abrasive action of the sand weakens the boot and eventually causes it to tear.

Blue smoke on startup

I see blue smoke in my exhaust when I start my engine. Is this normal or should I worry about it?

Yes, and No! Your engine is burning oil. That, in turn means your engine has worn valve guides, piston rings etc. An engine that burns a lot of oil (more than a quart in 800 miles) is an engine that needs to be overhauled. Normal oil consumption should be a quart or less in 1500 miles. If this is the case then the bit of blue smoke you see is considered normal and there is no need to worry. Most newer engines consume less than half a quart of oil between oil changes (every 3000 miles). In general if your engine is burning oil, it’s essentially worn out and needs to be repaired.

Choosing a battery with more cold cranking amps

I have heard that choosing a battery with more cold cranking amps than the original, will shorten the life of the battery. Is this so?

No! while the purchase of a stronger battery may cost more then needed for the given application, it has no problem for the rest of the car. The larger battery actually can give you more amperage and make the starter work easier.The battery requires less charging and after each start cycle it will also make the alternator last longer because the battery will recharge much faster.

Diagnostic Tech: '02 Olds Aurora

A 2002 Oldsmobile Aurora was in recently with two complaints. The headlights would dim intermittently and there was a Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL/Check Engine Light) on. The car had the 3.5 engine and all the luxury features you would expect in any top of the line automobile.

After spending some time trying to find a problem with the lights and having no luck, I decided to move on to the MIL complaint and come back to the lighting problem later. A lot of time can be spent checking a system but when the complaint can't be verified it can easily become time wasted. It's better to check for the cause of a problem while the problem is present.

I pulled a P0410 trouble code from the car's engine control module.

A P0410 will set when the engine computer has commanded the AIR pump on and the AIR valve solenoid open but does not see the O2 sensors go lean as they should when extra air is being pumped into the exhaust.

"An AIR pump?", you ask. Yes, an AIR pump. The modern version of the old belt driven smog pump is still alive if not well on many GM vehicles. The AIR pump no longer needs a belt. It is an electric motor and tucked away under the left front fender on the Aurora. The engine computer will provide a ground to the pump motor for testing or for normal system use. With a ground the motor should pump fresh air which is piped to a vacuum controlled valve at each exhaust manifold. With the vacuum control solenoid grounded by the ECM the vacuum will reach each valve and open them, allowing the fresh air to enter the exhaust and accelerate the catalyst operation. The fresh air entering the exhaust as it is commanded should lower the O2 sensor voltage to a lean condition. The lean condition should change the fuel trims. The engine computer does monitor the voltage on the command wire to the solenoid and will set a circuit electrical code if the voltage does not match the command. This means that when you see a code P0410 as a stand-alone code, you aren't likely to find an electrical problem.

One very common problem with the GM pumps is that the design of the air intake hose allows water to be drawn into the pump housing. This water will eventually cause the pump motor to be very hard to turn and even freeze up. GM Technical Service Bulletin 02-06-04-024G contains the related information. A replacement pump and an updated hose design to prevent the water contamination are available as a kit. The part number is 19515548. The original air intake hose filter is open to road splash from water while driving.

The new design is covered on the inner fender side and open to the engine compartment near the air filter housing. The install is fairly easy. The air filter housing and inner fender liner must be removed for access.
After finding the pump motor on this car to be water damaged and very difficult to turn I replaced it and the hose with the update kit.
While looking for the GM TSB and part number I had noticed something interesting. GM TSB 01-06-03-007A concerns headlamp and interior lights dimming in cold weather. The bulletin states that a revised alternator is available to fix complaints of headlamp dimming in cold weather and perhaps the blower speed slowing or changing pitch intermittently. The problem is due to intermittent low voltage. Engine vibration may cause the alternator to lose field continuity and the voltage regulator to reset. Now when the car owner dropped this Olds off he did say that the alternator had been replaced at another shop in an attempt to fix the light problem. I wasn't going to suggest yet another replacement. What really caught my eye is that the bulletin does go on to say that short term voltage drops with light flickers or fluctuation is a normal condition with high electrical demand AND that even after installing the revised alternator the car will exhibit short voltage dips and headlamp dimming DUE TO THE AIR PUMP CYCLING. Now just how much worse would this be if the air pump motor was water damaged and near frozen, causing much more current draw? It looked like the installation of the new air pump was going to help with the light dimming problem.

As important as it is to verify a complaint before starting a diagnostic job is verifying a repair after the work is performed. After clearing the trouble code a short test drive was in order. Everything appeared to work fine with no MIL on but a P0410 is a two trip code. In other words, if the air pump failed the monitor test during this test drive no code would be set and no MIL turned on. It would take a second ignition cycle and test drive to set a code. The air pump would need to fail the self test on two trips. To make things move along better and get the most of the test drive I usually take a scan tool along and record the ecm data.

A look at the scan tool data showed me that the air pump test had run and had FAILED during the drive. I would have liked to include the scan data capture in this article. You could clearly see the ecm activate the pump and solenoid three times and three times see no lean signal from the O2. It then gave up and logged a failure. Yes, I would have truly liked to include that but I did a software update on that scan tool earlier tonight not realizing it would clear the record memory.

Back in the shop, I used the command function of the scan tool to command the air pump on and verified the ecm could provide ground and the pump was fully functional. If the pump was working as commanded then the shut-off valves were the next place to check. Vacuum from the intake manifold is piped to the vacuum solenoid. When the ecm grounds the solenoid it opens, allowing manifold vacuum to reach the shut-off valves. The vacuum should then open the valves allowing the fresh air from the pump to reach the exhaust system. If the solenoid has an electrical problem the ecm should detect that and set a related solenoid circuit code. There was no circuit code so I used a simple vacuum gauge to verify 18" of vacuum to the solenoid. With the engine running and the vacuum gauge at one shut-off valve port I grounded the solenoid and got only 5" vacuum. I blocked the other shut-off valve port and tried it again. This time I had 18" of vacuum. The rear-most (right side) shut-off valve was bad and losing vacuum. With the vacuum loss, neither shut-off valve could open so no air from the pump was reaching the exhaust.

I actually do have scan data on the test drive done after replacing the shut-off valve. It was saved to the pc after being captured on a different scan tool so escaped the fate of the first data capture.

You can see the O2 sensor go lean when the pump is on verifying the system is operational.

I love my job!

Kenneth Hayes

aka Deranger

The modern day Jeep Wrangler- Was it created by the Willys-Overland company?

I have heard that the modern day Jeep Wrangler was created by the Willys-Overland company for the army in WWII. Is this so?

No! Karl K. Probst designed the original vehicle and in 1941, the Bantam Car Company of Butler, PA, developed the Bantam Reconnaissance Car in response to a U.S. Army request for an all-purpose military vehicle. This vehicle became the prototype of the Jeep, later manufactured by Willys and Ford, and is the direct ancestor of the four-wheel drive vehicles of today. It easily met every requirement called for by the army, however Bantam didn’t get the army contract and sereptiously the design was passed onto Willys who called it the General Purpose Vehicle, shortened to GP which became known as Jeep. The contract changed to AMC which was bought by Chrysler in 1987 and the headlight design was changed from round to square and then called the Wranger. The original 2.5 liter engine is still around, but the 258 straight six carbureted engine has been replaced by a fuel injected engine in 1991.

Using the recirculate setting on your air conditioner

I have heard that using the recirculate setting on your air conditioner is unsafe and can result in depleted oxygen in the cabin. Is this so?

No! Almost all vehicles heating and A/C systems provide for some freshair to be channeled into the passenger cabin at all times, regardless of whether the controls are set to recirculate or fresh. This is done for several reasons.

1. To keep the cabin under slight pressure so that exhaust fumes don't get sucked inside.

2. To keep the air in the cabin fresh at all times.

3. To help purge stale or obnoxious odors from the cabin.

4. to prevent someone from suffocating inside the car in the event they are trapped inside.

Diagnostic Tech: '92 Ford Tempo EECIV

We're going to need to set the Wayback Machine for 1992. Ford was using Electronic Engine Control System IV, or EECIV. By today's standards EECIV lacks sophistication but in its day it certainly performed its tasks very dependably.
On the plate today is a 1992 Ford Tempo w/2.3 engine and automatic transmission. The complaint is an intermittent Service Engine Soon light on and a high idle speed at that time. This system does store trouble codes in memory but should only turn the SES light while a code setting condition is present. In this case it just seemed to me that a test drive to verify the complaint was in order.
Initially the car ran fine. No light came on and even though I was driving in stop and go traffic there were no idle speed problems. I decided to return to the shop and just run the EECIV self-tests. When I pulled into the driveway the SES light came on. The idle speed was fine until I stopped and put the car's shifter into park position. The idle speed went to around 2000 rpm and stayed there for about three seconds before slowing back to normal. I had just verified the complaint. Time for the EECIV checks.
The car's test connector is at the left shock tower, near the battery. Technically there are two connectors. One is a single wire called the self-test input connector.
I'm going to mention that there are alternatives to retrieving codes. You don't have to use a scan tool. That being said, you will find the scan tool method more reliable with less chance of misreading a code number or accidentally clearing memory codes.
It is important to understand EECIV self-tests before using them to find a problem. Ford has the car's computer run specific tests and report back areas that failed the tests. The failures are reported as trouble codes. Running the tests improperly can give you misleading results.
A quick warmup cycle for the engine and I'll get started.
After connecting the scan tool to the test connector and entering the car data I want to start with "Quick Tests" and the Key On Engine Off tests. If a sensor fails the KOEO test then it should be repaired. You'll need a "Pass" or a no fault found condition in the KOEO self-test before any KOER (Key On Engine Running) tests can be reliably done.
The KOEO running test results are called "On Demand" codes. In this case I get a Pass code 111 which means no problems were found. After the On Demand codes are displayed the Keep Alive continuous memory codes will be displayed. The Keep Alive, or continuous codes are codes from the car's computer memory. Codes that have set in the past. This car has a 332 in memory. A 332 indicates insufficient EGR flow. I don't think a problem with the exhaust gas recirculation system it going to be related to the high idle or even the SES on at that time. An EGR not flowing should not cause the idle speed to be higher and since the EGR is not supposed to be flowing at idle anyway I don't think it would turn the light on at that time. I'm going to move on to the KOER tests because that test should be done before getting too involved with Continuous codes. The KOER test will reveal any sensor failures that happen during the test.
The KOER test codes indicate a 332 again. This time I know the EGR failed a test in real time and currently has a problem. Again though, I don't think it is related to the idle speed problem. Two more codes do indicate a problem with idle speed control, a 412 and 411. These codes indicate the car's computer not being able to control the idle speed. These codes do not store to memory so without running KOER tests we would not see them. If you think that was a lot of trouble to find that something is wrong with the idle speed you have a point. What was learned though is that the several sensors that contribute to the computer choosing an appropriate idle speed do pass self-tests. That means I should start by concentrating my efforts in testing the computer's ability to control the idle speed. In other words, I've learned that the inputs to the computer are likely to be fine but there is a problem with the idle control output circuit.
It's a good idea, I think, at this point to check the base idle and minimum air adjustment. Before any throttle adjustments are made I want to be sure I have a clean throttle plate. I'll remove the air intake hose, the MAF and the air cleaner cover as a unit. The throttle plate actually doesn't look too bad. It's pretty clean on the air cleaner side. The air filter looks good and the air cleaner housing was properly fastened.

When I open the throttle fully and look past the plate I can see major carbon buildup. I can even see why the EGR flow is low. The EGR passages are just behind the throttle body and fully plugged with carbon. The best thing to do here is remove the throttle body, remove the EGR valve and do some cleaning.

While we are in the neighborhood, this is a good time to remove the Idle Air Control (or Air Bypass Valve) and clean that passage as well. The engine computer uses this valve to control the amount of air that bypasses the throttle plate. The amount of air allowed controls the engine idle speed.

Once everything is clean and reinstalled it is a good idea to clean the MAF sensor or at least see if it needs cleaning. Two tamper proof screws hold the MAF to the MAF housing. A torx T20H will fit the screw heads. Carefully remove the MAF from the housing. With a magnifying glass and a good light you can look for dirt on the two tiny wires at the bottom of the sensor. If you see dirt, carefully clean it. These days there are spray MAF cleaners on the market. That wasn't always the case so I still use the same Berryman Spray Carb Cleaner that I always did. For stubborn spots I use a Q-tip as well.

This particular MAF looked pretty clean so after reinstalling it I let the engine warm up again. I know that I now have a clean throttle, a clean MAF, a clean IAC and a clean EGR passage but what I don't know is if I've fixed any of the complaints. It's time to run the KOER test again.

After getting the same results with the KOER self-test as before all this work, I decided to see just what was happening at the Idle Air Control as far as the computer control was concerned. The voltage at the IAC signal wire should roughly match the position being commanded by the computer. A command to open the valve 34% would have 3.4 volts. As a load is placed on the engine the command would increase, so a voltmeter could be used to check the command to see if the computer is trying to slow the idle speed during the high idle problem. Another method would be to disconnect the IAC wire connector from the valve and see if the engine slows. You see, the valve is spring loaded to return to minimum air position without a voltage command to the contrary. In fact, it is by disconnecting the IAC and adjusting the throttle position stop screw that minimum idle air is adjusted. All I have to do is wait for the high idle problem to appear. After a few minutes of running time the engine idle speed begins to race. When I disconnect the Idle Air Control the rpms do not change. The IAC valve is bad. I suspect a vacuum leak within the valve is the problem.

After replacing the IAC valve I now have no more racing idle and no more idle control related fault codes. One thing very good about the EECIV testing method is that I can rerun the test after a repair to verify the problem is fixed. The idle problem is fixed! BUT the EGR problem remains. I still have a 332 fault code in the KOER test.

During the KOER self-test the ECM will open the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid very briefly. This allows manifold vacuum to pass through the solenoid to the EGR valve. The vacuum should open the EGR valve. The pressure in the exhaust tube that runs to the EGR valve is measured by the PFE sensor. If the ECM has commanded the EGR solenoid to open yet does not see the PFE sensor voltage indicate a pressure change the ECM will assume the EGR is not working and will set the 332 fault code.

For testing purposes I like to use a length of vacuum hose and bypass the solenoid, feeding the vacuum directly to the EGR valve with the engine running at idle. If the engine nearly stalls then the valve is passing plenty of exhaust flow.



I started to do that here but noticed that the hose that feeds pressure from the EGR exhaust tube to the PFE sensor was broken. With a broken hose the PFE sensor would not be able to monitor the exhaust tube pressure change and would indeed set the 332 code. A replacement hose and another KOER test and this time the repairs were done! A complete system pass. No more light, no more high idle, no more codes!

Blotching seen on side windows

I have heard that the blotching seen on some side window glass under certain light conditions is normal and isn’t caused by flawed glass. Is this so?


No! This phenomenon is commonly found in tinted and tempered window glass which is used in side windows and the blotching is caused by a heat treating process which varies from batch to batch and the tint appears blotchy when the light reflects off of it at certain angles. It seems to be more prominent in some cars then in others.

A gas saving gadget that can improve fuel economy in your vehicle

I have heard that by using a simple vacuum gauge I can improve fuel economy of my vehicle. Is this so?

Yes! The gauge displays intake vacuum, which is an indication of how much load is on the engine and can be an excellent indicator of how hard the engine is working, along with how much fuel is being used. The greater the load or throttle input on the engine, the lower the vacuum reading and also the lower your gas mileage. So simply put, lower vacuum readings mean more power but less mileage, higher vacuum readings mean less power used, but more mileage. For diesels, higher boost means more power but more fuel used, lower boost is less power but better mileage.

Water pump tip

If the water pump is going to be out of an engine for more then a day, dunk it in coolant. This keeps the seal from drying out and will prevent it from leaking when you finally reinstall it.

Cleaning a a corroded battery terminal with Coca-Cola

I have heard that pouring coke on a corroded battery terminal is the best way to clean off the corrosion. Is this so?

NO! It does work to some extent, but coke contains enough acid, carbolic, phosphoric and citrus acid to make the metal bright and shiny, but it also leaves an acidic condition behind..Coke has a Ph of around 2.8, which will soon corrode the metal again, just as the battery acid did in the first place. Baking soda works better because it also neutralizes the battery acid and does not leave behind a corrosive acid film which is going to start attacking the wire.

Another fuel saving tip- A/C fan speed

I have heard that to save gasoline while using the A/C (air conditioner) use the low speed setting for the fan.

No! The energy consumption difference between running the fan on low speed and high speed is negligible and wouldn't show up in fuel consumption tests.

However, the A/C temperature setting is a critical factor in fuel
consumption since it directly correlates with how much the compressor runs. The compressor pulls up to 10 horsepower away from the motor. The best way to save fuel when using the A/C is to run the compressor as little as possible. Set the cabin temp on the warmest setting that still keeps you comfortable. Run the blower fan on its highest setting, which will maximize the convection cooling effect of the air coming out of the A/C ducts.

More Fuel saving tips!

Here are a few tips for saving fuel, often not thought of!

*Change the entire driveline over to synthetic oil and gain 10% fuel economy. Change to synthetic lubes in the engine, transmission, transfer case, and differential. Important: Not all synthetic oil is the same, and your results may vary. Added benefit: Extend the oil change interval 25-50% longer.


*Use a Car Cover if the vehicle is parked outside, a car cover may save time and energy. When used in sunbelt states and dark colored cars, a cover prevents the vehicle interior from being heated by the sun’s UV rays, the air conditioner has less heat to remove, cools the car faster with less energy. The 1- 2% fuel mileage gain will vary based on air temp, type of vehicle and driving habits. When used in snowbelt states, it can reduce defrost time by eliminating ice on the windshield and snow buildup in the defroster intake ducts located below the windshield.


*Use Window Tint Film Interlayer Film blocks the hot and harmful rays of the sun while still allowing crystal clear wireless transmission. This window solar film shades the specific light wavelengths that heat the car, reducing the load on the a/c. Tests have shown that compact cars in a traffic jam that use air conditioning can expect an increase in fuel economy of approximately 3%.



*Use Injector Cleaners Plugged fuel injectors Can rob fuel mileage by up to 12%. Regular use of an injector cleaning gas additive or annual injector cleaning is necessary.



*Replace the Oxygen sensor. Pre-1996 vehicles can have lazy oxygen sensors without the driver ever knowing it, which can rob fuel mileage by 10-15%. On these older cars, replace the oxygen sensor(s) if over 100,000 miles or 10 years old.

Manual transmission fluid changes

I have heard that manual transmissions should have the fluid changed because the fluid like automatic transmissions degrades.

No, In a manual transmission, the problem is not so much the fluid degradation, but rather fluid contamination. This contamination occurs over time as the synchronizers, bearings and gears in the transmission wear out. The resulting metal particles then float around in the lubricant. And we all know that oil with microscopic particles of metal in it does not lubricate as well as clean oil. So if these contaminants are not drained out, they will shorten the life of your transmission.

E85 flex fuel conversions and using E85 in a gasoline-only powered vehicle:

Is it possible to convert a vehicle that was designed for gasoline to operate on E85? Yes. However, there are no conversion or aftermarket parts that have been certified by the EPA as meeting the standards to maintain clean exhaust emissions. Technically speaking, converting a vehicle that was designed to operate on unleaded gasoline only to operate on another form of fuel is a violation of the federal law and the offender may be subject to significant penalties. No aftermarket conversion company has taken the initiative to certify an E85 kit that would allow a gasoline vehicle to operate on 85% ethanol.

Ok, Then what would happen if I accidentally fuel my gasoline-only powered vehicle with E85?

Although your vehicle was not manufactured to run on E85, no problems should occur if you mistakenly fuel once with the alternative fuel. The largest difference between an E85 powered vehicle and a gasoline powered vehicle is that their computer modules are meant to read different amounts of oxygen within the fuel. E85 contains a higher amount of oxygen than gasoline and E85 compatible vehicles are made to read that higher amount. When a higher amount of oxygen is read by a gasoline powered vehicle, your "check engine light" may appear. A number of other parts on the FFV's fuel delivery system are modified to be ethanol-compatible. The fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel injectors, computer system and anti-siphon device have been modified slightly. Alcohol fuels can be more corrosive than gasoline. Therefore; fuel system parts have been upgraded to be ethanol-compatible.

Topping off conventional coolant with long life coolant

I have heard that if the cooling system in an older vehicle that has conventional coolant is topped off with long life coolant it will shorten the life of the conventional coolant. Is this so?

No, because the normal life of conventional coolant is only 2 years/24000miles, adding long life coolant will have no effect on the service life of the conventional coolant. However, adding conventional coolant to a cooling system filled with long life coolant will shorten the life of the long life coolant.

Diagnostic Tech: 02 Buick Century A/C

It's been a hot summer and that places a lot of demand on air conditioning systems. Today's project is a 2002 Buick Century, automatic transmission and the 3.1 vin J engine. The complaint is no cold air from the air conditioner. On the drive into the service area I notice the blower works fine and the air flow is from the proper vents. When I cycle the A/C switch on I notice there is no compressor clutch engagement and there is no electric cooling fan operation.
Remember, when you turn the A/C switch on you are making a request to the powertrain control module. If the PCM sees the request and determines the conditions are correct it will engage the compressor clutch and it will engage the cooling fan. Since neither the fan or compressor are engaging I'm going to initially look for a condition that would cause the PCM to "decide" not to comply with the request. The system on this particular car is not automatic temperature control but a manual system with dual temperature control. The manual system looks at fewer inputs then the automatic so *should* be easier to diagnose.
One very basic check is system pressure. If the system pressure is too low, the PCM will not turn the A/C on. I choose to connect a set of gauges to the system for the pressure test. That way, if the system proves to be low of refrigerant I'm ready to charge it without missing a beat.











In this case the stabilized pressures are approximately 120psi so there is plenty of refrigerant and certainly enough to allow the compressor to engage. Since I have started along this path though it's a good idea to continue the journey before looking elsewhere. *I* know the system has good pressure but I don't know if the *PCM* knows it. The PCM won't be looking at a set of gauges, it will be looking at the pressure signal voltage from the pressure sensor. The pressure sensor is located in the pressure line in the area below the air cleaner housing.
I can check the voltage at the sensor with a meter but if I start with a scan tool and look at the A/C pressure sensor data I'll be looking at what the PCM "sees". If I start at the sensor and do the voltage check with a meter and the voltage checks good, I would still have to check the scan tool data. But, if I check the scan tool data first and it is good then there is no need to check the sensor voltage.



I can't miss an opportunity to check stored trouble codes so once I connect the scan tool I do just that. The PCM has stored DTC P0530. P0530 indicates a problem with the A/C refrigerant pressure sensor circuit. This code certainly tells me that I'm on the right path and I pull up the A/C pressure data items.

The A/C pressure readings are certainly out of the ordinary. The PCM sees no voltage from the pressure sensor and calculates a VACUUM condition (-15 psi)! I think it is time to do some voltage checks at the sensor. The pressure sensor has three wires. It has a 5 volt reference voltage, a ground and a signal return to the PCM. As the pressure changes the voltage on the signal return will vary. The PCM will use that voltage signal to determine system pressure.

With the sensor wiring connected I verify the reference voltage and ground are good at the sensor connector. A check of the signal wire shows no voltage so I'm almost ready to condemn the sensor. I need to verify the signal circuit is not shorted to ground. A short to ground would kill the sensor output voltage even with a good sensor. It won't work to disconnect the sensor and check for a ground on the circuit because the pulldown resistor inside the PCM would ground the open circuit. I wouldn't know if there was a short to ground unless I also disconnected the PCM connector. I didn't disconnect the PCM. I cut the signal wire a few inches from the sensor and checked for voltage on the sensor side of the wire. When I found no voltage output from the sensor then I KNEW I had a bad sensor.

FIX:

Replace the A/C Pressure Sensor.

Stretched lug nuts!

I have heard that if you put grease or anti-seize compound on your wheel mounting studs, it will make the threads on the lug nuts stretch, requiring replacement of them.

That’s ridiculous, stretched lug nuts! No. If you want to facilitate removing the wheels, especially when operating in conditions were salt is present (as in northern states or near the ocean), it is prudent to use anti-seize compound on the threads and the mating surfaces where the steelnut seats against the alloy wheel. This will keep the nut from galling the rim, as well as having a chemical reaction between a lug and rim that welds the nut to the rim. Remember that using a lubricant also increases torque values, so you should back off on the torque specs just a bit to compensate.

Diagnostic Tech: 99 Ford Escort

Today's project is a 1999 Ford Escort ZX2 with 2.0 vin 3 engine and with automatic transmission. The complaint is that the A/C is not cold. The blower works. The air flow is good and from the proper vents.
One of the other techs here in the shop has made some initial checks and informs me that there is sufficient refrigerant in the system but the compressor clutch does not engage. With that information I run a simple test on the drive into the shop. I make sure the A/C is turned off before I start the car and on the way into shop turn the A/C on. I'm listening for the radiator fan to run. It does run. The radiator fan is turned on when I turn the A/C on. Why is that important? I'll get to that.
On this car (and on most cars) you aren't actually turning the air conditioning on when you turn the switch on. You are sending a signal to one of the control modules "requesting" the A/C on. Under normal conditions the control module "sees" the request, checks that conditions are met to allow air conditioning to operate and THEN operates the air conditioning system. If the control module sees a condition that isn't within specifications, such as a low refrigerant condition, it won't command the air conditioning on.
The powertrain control module is the module used to control the compressor and fan systems on this car. When the PCM sees a request voltage at its connector pin 41 and it sees no reason not to run the air conditioning it should do two things that are important to this diagnosis. It should command the compressor clutch on and it *SHOULD COMMAND THE COOLING FAN ON*. The fact that the fan came on with the A/C switch turned on means that the control switch works and that the PCM sees no reason not to turn the compressor on. It even verifies the pressure switches are fine because the request voltage from the switch must pass through the low pressure switch and high pressure switch on the way to pin 41 of the PCM.
Since I know the problem is on the PCM output to compressor clutch side of the system the best place to do some tests is at the constant control relay module. The relay module is a true black box containing several relays and mounted directly under the air cleaner housing at the left inner fender. The PCM may be the one making commands but the constant control relay module is doing the work.

Pin 21 of the CCRM is the power feed to the clutch relay inside the module. It should be powered with the key on. This is easily checked with a circuit tester and there is power to the relay. When the relay is closed the power feed to pin 21 should be fed to pin 23 and on to the compressor clutch. When I apply power to pin 23 the clutch does work so I know the wiring to the compressor is good. Since I have power to the relay and know that the clutch will work with power then I know that the relay is not closing. To close the relay needs a ground signal at pin 22. This signal should come from the PCM. It is the "command" for the compressor clutch to operate.

The coil side of the relay is provided power by the PCM power relay. This means that with the engine running and the A/C switch off there should be voltage at pin 22 of the CCRM. With the A/C on and the PCM commanding the relay closed there should be a ground at pin 22. With the Power Probe circuit tester I find I have everything I need at the relay to make the relay close. The relay has failed. Since the relay is integral to the CCRM the entire module should be replaced.

What should be done after machining the brake rotors?

I have heard that after machining brake rotors, before they are ready for use, you must prep them for installation by sanding the machined surface lightly with sand paper. Is this so?

No! This does not remove the metal filings caught in the machined surface, and may even add abrasive material to the rotors. Failure to properly clean freshly turned brake rotors causes metal contamination.This may contaminate the ABS wheel sensor and make the ABS operate during slow speed stops. This can also cause uneven pad wear, pulling and noise. Always thoroughly wash the metal filings from machined rotors with hot soapy water. Then dry them with paper towels before installing.

Auto insurance term- "Betterment"

Has your car been in an accident? Perhaps you have come across the term “Betterment”. Betterment is an improvement that increases the value of the vehicle or part of the vehicle.

Betterment is an interesting concept. Insurance, as you know, is designed to put you back into the position that you were in before a claim occurred. In other words, if your house burns down, insurance should rebuild your house. If your car is damaged, insurance should repair your car. Easy enough, right?
Well, some things need to be replaced and put you in a position "better" than you would normally be in. For example, what if your brakes need to be replaced? If your brakes were worn and now they are brand new, you have been "bettered." In this case, the insurance company can take betterment. Think of this as depreciation.

However, betterment cannot occur to certain things. You cannot better a body part of a car. Why? Because they do not wear out. Betterment only applies to parts that wear out. Have you ever seen a hood wear out? Probably not. Why? Because they generally do not wear out. So, if the insurance company replaces your hood, they should not charge you betterment. If they do, you should yell and scream and tell them that they need to stop!

Letting the engine idle after a long trip

I have heard that once you reach your point of destination after driving from a long trip you should not shut the car off instantly and let the engine idle for a few minutes. Is this so?


No! Unless the engine has a turbo charger, idling like that only wastes gasoline, and does nothing else. But if it has a turbo, let it for a minute so the turbo has time to spin down.

Changing the automatic transmission fluid when burnt

I have heard that you shouldn’t change the automatic transmission fluid until it is burnt. If you do your wasting your money unnecessary.

No! By the time the fluid turns dark it has lost most of it’s additive package and it’s ability to lubricate. If you wait until the fluid is burnt your going to cause damage to the transmission and at the very least your going to shorten the transmissions life.

Towing troubles- A recent study on Towing

On Masterlock's web site there is a report called "Towing Troubles - Danger on America's Road". Here is a summary of the document. You probably had no idea all this was going on! The site this summary comes from is mentioned at the end of this blog.


What Are They Towing?

• Most Americans tow using a pickup (57%) or a sports utility vehicle (31%)
• Some 10 percent of respondents were towing with a vehicle that was ranked only moderately or poorly appropriate for the class of trailer they were towing while 10 percent did not have the most appropriate towing vehicle for the type of trailer they were towing
• A majority (80%) use Class III trailer hitches

Where Are They Going?

• More than one-quarter of respondents (28%) traveled between 50 and 100 miles, while nearly half (47%) traveled more than 100 miles to their destination towing a trailer

Their Negligence is Showing

• A majority (51%) of Americans who tow do not use the recommended security methods of a locking device for their coupler and hitch
• Nearly 50 percent (48%) of respondents towing boats use only a non-locking receiver pin to connect their trailer, which is susceptible to tampering
• Respondents towing campers had the best approach to safety, with 69 percent using both locks and pins to secure their vehicles, 69 percent using weight distribution systems, 71 percent using appropriately crossed security chains and 52 percent having a properly leveled trailer
• Nearly 50 percent (47%) of those towing boats didn't properly cross their safety chains under the coupler.
• A majority of respondents towing boats or ATVs/jet skis/motorcycles achieved a moderate or worse ranking on the levelness of their trailer. For ATVs/jet skis/motorcycles, 15 percent were ranked poor or extremely poor
• More than 50 percent (53%) of towing vehicles and trailers received only moderate or poor rankings on their electrical systems. Boat trailers presented the greatest danger, with 17 percent of their electrical systems in poor or extremely poor condition
• Trailer tires are one of the biggest dangers on the road, with 41 percent of tires in only moderate or worse condition. Some 10 percent of boat trailers had tires in poor or extremely poor condition.


Their Cargo is Overflowing

• Security of cargo on the trailers also is an issue, with more than 54 percent of campers, 28 percent of ATVs/jet skis/motorcycles and 49 percent of boats ranking as moderate or worse in their cargo security
• The security of additional cargo – loaded in the boats or campers – was a significant issue, with 32 percent of respondents ranking moderate and 40 percent ranking poor or extremely poor. This means coolers, lawn chairs, bicycles, and other typical cargo could easily fall into the path of an oncoming car
• The condition of bungee cords was a major issue – 46 percent were in moderate or poor condition and improperly located – meaning cords could easily snap or come unhooked and release cargo onto the roadway
• Ratchet tie-downs were a problem for 39 percent of respondents, as those towing boats or ATVs/jet skis/motorcycles received moderate or worse marks for the condition and location of the tie-downs securing their cargo



There web site for towing information including some audio/video can be found at http://www.towingtroubles.com/

Towing with an automatic transmission

Is it true that if you’re pulling a load with an automatic transmission equipped car or light truck you should start out in the ‘D’ or drive position, then shift into overdrive ‘OD’ once you reach highway speeds.

No! If your pulling a load, trailer RV, etc, start out by manual shifting into low, then second , then third, then drive. Manual shifting through the gears raises the hydraulic pressures in the transmission which helps out because it makes applications of the bands and the clutches much firmer in the transmission, increasing the life of it. You should leave it in drive unless your on flat level ground and can shift into overdrive without the transmission hunting.

Buried Car Headed To Frederick, Maryland

A vintage car (mentioned here on our blog the last few weeks)buried for 50 years in Tulsa, Oklahoma, is coming to Frederick, MD.


The new 1957 Plymouth Belvedere was buried in honor of Tulsa's 50th birthday celebration in 1957. It was unearthed during a centennial celebration last month and was awarded to the closest living relative of Ray Humbertson -- the man who, 50 years ago, most closely guessed the city's current population. Humbertson died in 1979 so the car is being given to his sister, Catherine Johnson of Bowling Green, Maryland. Her Frederick nephew Bob Carney will try to remove 50 years of rust and make the car presentable. He won't do a full restoration, which he says would remove some of the car's historic value. Tulsa will give the car to Johnson on September 14th.

'Posted from WUSA9.com on 7/18/2007 '

When the cabin air filter does not appear to be working!

If you can smell smoke when driving near a fire where someone is burning leaves, is this a good indication that your vehicles cabin air filter is not functioning properly and needs to be replaced?

No! The strong odor of smoke is not an indication that the cabin air filter needs replacing, because most cabin air filters contain only a paper filter which removes only dust or pollen. Only absorption type of filters, one’s that contain active charcoal that are found in high priced luxury cars can actually filter out noxious odors. However you may be able to buy a high end absorption cabin filter with charcoal to replace the paper one.

Determining when you need an alignment

My car shakes at “x” number of miles per hour. Do I need an alignment? Shakes , shimmy rarely has anything to do with alignment. But my car is pulling to the right as I go down the road! Does this indicate I need an alignment?


No! well then what does determine whether I need an alignment?


Tire wear that affects the edge of one or both of the tires on one end of the car. That suggests that you need an alignment. However, if you rotate your tires properly, every 6,000 to 7,500 miles your probably not going to notice this wear on any tires.

When you rotate the tires you should be using what is called a modified “x” pattern. Meaning two of the tires are going to be crossed to the opposite side of the car. For a front-wheel-drive car, it works like this: The tire on the right rear would go to the left front, and the left rear tire to the right front. The two front ones come straight back. For rear-wheel drive, just reverse the pattern.

By doing all this if the alignment is slightly off your not going to notice it and more importantly and some cars take to a certain wear pattern, which just might be natural. Remember abnormal tire wear can be caused by too little tire pressure, too much tire pressure, failure to rotate tires.

One exception to the modified “x” pattern is if your car has directional tires or directional wheels. These tires should remain on the same side of the vehicle and be rotated straight forward and straight back. The other consideration is if the tires on the front and the rear are of different size.

Do Aftermarket coolant system additives, known as surfactants really work?

First what is a surfactant? A surfactant or surface active agent, is a molecule that has a water-loving end (hydrophilic and water fearing end (hydrophobic). Localized boiling of coolant in the cylinder head can create large shock waves that can wreck havoc on your engine, particularly on aluminum components.

In general, there are three main reasons why using these additives is beneficial to your cooling system. Firstly, they reduce harmful cavitations and foaming that may occur when your water pump is kicking out fluid at a rapid pace. This reduced foaming helps to prevent damage to aluminum surfaces. Secondly, the use of these additives aid in the transmission of heat from the coolant to the radiating surfaces within the radiator. Even if your car runs very cool, these additives add a extra level of protection in case a thermostat or similar component fails. Thirdly, the additives contain corrosion inhibitors. Most cars on the road have cooling systems that do not contain the ideal 50/50 water / antifreeze ratio that the antifreeze manufacturers design for. The additives help to minimize potential corrosion by maintaining adequate pH levels. Even if your antifreeze already contains surfactant additives, the use of these additional additives is typically beneficial because most cars are shortchanged on the 50/50 coolant/water mix.

In general surfactants will reduce the temperature of the cooling system by 10 degrees.
Examples of surfactants would be,

. Redline’s “Water wetter”
. Royal Purple’s “Purple Ice”
. Lubguard’s “Kool-it”
. BG “Super Cool”

Can Synthetic oils be used in roller bearing applications?

I have heard that

Synthetic oils can't be used in roller bearing applications because synthetic oil is too slippery. Because of this, the rollers bearings tend to slide rather than roll which leads to accelerated wear of the rollers.

No!. The exact opposite it true. The chopping action of the roller bearings causes the failure of the viscosity improver additives found in petroleum oils, not high-quality synthetics. For example, a 10w-40 petroleum oil might sheer back to something like a 5w-10. This loss of viscosity results in breakdown of film strength. When this happens, there can be metal-to-metal contact of the surfaces of the roller and crankshaft(or camshaft) inside the engine which results in scuffing damage of these parts.

In fact many Harley Davidson dealership technicians for years up until recently have been are telling customers that synthetic motor oil is "too slippery" and can cause flat spots on roller bearings because the bearings won't turn. Now Harley Davidson recommends synthetic’s!

Automatic vs. Manual transmissions-Which is more durable and economical?

I have heard that cars with manual transmissions are more durable and economical then those with automatic transmissions. Is this so?

No, Some years ago manual transmissions were more durable and made the vehicle more fuel efficient than automatics, but now you can kiss that rule goodbye. This turn of events comes from two significant changes; lighter weight materials, and automatic transmissions, which have become more efficient in transferring power from the engine over the years. While the automatics have been steadily marching forward, most manual transmissions have just become lighter and smaller.

This brings us to a very important point. When you buy your next car don’t buy a manual transmission unless you enjoy the sport of shifting. Simply stated, if you’re a person who hates to shift but purchases stick shift only because you think it’s more durable, buy an automatic. Given proper care and usage the automatic will usually deliver nearly equal gas mileage and life.

Whether there is a penalty in fuel economy between automatic and manual transmissions depends solely on the skill of the driver. Usually automatics doing slightly better for Real World drivers. That's due to the fact that proper manual transmission driving skills are not usually taught these days.

Is there a need to put any additives in diesel fuel?

I have heard that there’s never any need to put any additives in diesel fuel. Is this so?

No! That statement was made by Mike Allen a writer for Popular Mechanics magazine. While they can add a few more dollars to operating cost, they reduce the risk of the engine having problems with untreated fuel. The risks are water contamination, which can cause injection failure. Additives stabilize the water, preventing from accumulating in large quantities. Prevent injection nozzle deposits which cause poor fuel atomization and fuel consumption. There are also lubrication problems with less sulfur in the fuel today, which additives can remedy. Additives can also increase your cetane number. So additives in diesel fuel are a good idea!

The picture on upper the left shows the BG Diesel Fuel Lubricant with Conditioner. It provides the necessary film strength and lubricity to low-sulfur and ultra-low sulfur diesel fuel to prevent fuel pump and injection parts from scoring and seizing. One thing that is pretty good about this product is that just Two ounces (60 mL) of BG Diesel Fuel Lubricant with Conditioner treats up to 40 gallons (150 Liters) of diesel fuel. Catalytic converter and oxygen sensor safe. Part No. 227D

Miss Belvedere... Miss Belvedere...

By now I would assume that everyone knows the fate of Dear Miss Belvedere.

(Be certain to click on the link at the end for the latest photo gallery)

But, was it a delight? or a disaster?... That really depends upon your point of view and also what you were expecting from this 'time capsule' endevour.
I personally was hoping to see that Miss Belvedere had survived the ravages of time with little if any harm.
After all, she was "properly" sealed and entombed to suffer little if any harm for the next FIFTY years.
Imagine my heartbreak when I saw those first reports and pics.
The "capsule" had leaked.
In fact, from what I could see in the pics, the whole dang vault was FILLED with water.
I can see the water-line in the pics, ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP!

So here I am, wanting to place blame and tell them so-and-so "engineers" how they *should* have built it, how they *should* have realized basic liquid/hydraulic properties.
How their PHD's didn't mean squat and how *I* had more common sense than them!

Thank Goodness they couldn't hear me!

You see, it took a few days for my common sense to return.
A few days for my disappointment to wane.
A few days until I could REALLY appreciate the TRUE meaning of Miss Belvedere.

As the days went on, more and more reports and pics of the Tulsarama event became
available (I must admit, they did a good job keeping the website up to date).
Especially the contents, THE TOTAL CONTENTS, of the "time capsule".
And also the people, they were not sad. Everyone was jumping out of their seats!

THAT is when I finally realized...
It didn't matter what condition Miss Belvedere was in!
It didn't matter if ANY of the contents survived!

This was about HOPE.
A better future.
Our (their's) prediction of what the future may hold, NOT THE PAST!

We all know "dust to dust" (refer to your favorite scriptures for the whole answer).
We CAN'T stop what is "gonna be" or even "what was".

We can see however, evidence of what we wanna be and evidence of what may come.

As you peruse the pics at the official site, keep in mind the glory of this endevour, the effort that was put into place, for our benefit.

Also take careful note how well preserved (WELL PRESERVED) the items are from
the capsule within a capsule.

You will be DELIGHTED!

How many of you remember these records!!!














Go here to see the most recent pics!!!

http://www.buriedcar.com/photo_gallery.asp

Pics from
http://www.buriedcar.com/photo_gallery.asp


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