I have heard that Ford recommends a specific penetrant called AeroKroil that's marketed by Kano Labs.( http://www.kanolabs.com/) This should be used when removing spark plugs on such engines as 2005 Ford F-150 with the three-valve 5.4L engine. Why is there such a problem removing those spark plugs?
This one is long, be prepared to read on…
These spark plugs have a very long unthreaded ground electrode shield that extends below the threaded area of the plug. The plug's seat is also above the ground electrode shield. The shield reaches the rest of the way down to the combustion chamber. A side-to-side ground strap, rather than one or more side electrodes, is used, so the plugs do not require gapping. The ground strap looks like a basket handle. Autolite calls these Revolution HT (high thread) plugs.
These spark plugs have a very long unthreaded ground electrode shield that extends below the threaded area of the plug. The plug's seat is also above the ground electrode shield. The shield reaches the rest of the way down to the combustion chamber. A side-to-side ground strap, rather than one or more side electrodes, is used, so the plugs do not require gapping. The ground strap looks like a basket handle. Autolite calls these Revolution HT (high thread) plugs.
Because the ground electrode shield is below the plug seat, carbon from the combustion chamber may accumulate between the shield and the cylinder head plug bore. The carbon may cause the plug to seize to the plug bore, so extreme caution must be exercised during spark plug removal. Engine temperature during this procedure is critical—not too hot and not too cold. Ideally, the engine should be warm to the touch. Run the engine to operating temperature, then allow it to cool until it reaches a comfortable working temperature.
Remove the coil-on-plug assemblies, then blow out the spark plug wells and surrounding valve cover area with compressed air. Back out the spark plugs, no more than 1 /8 to 1 /4 turn, then apply penetrating oil to fill the spark plug wells, to a level just above the jam nut hexes. Don't get carried away. Too much penetrant, or repeated soakings, may allow the penetrant to find its way into the cylinders and cause a hydraulic lock. Ford recommends a specific penetrant called AeroKroil that's marketed by Kano Labs ( http://www.kanolabs.com/). If you've had success with another penetrant brand, use it. Allow the penetrant to sit for a minimum of five to ten minutes—longer if possible. Don't work the spark plug back and forth at this point.
After the penetrant has worked its magic, slowly remove the spark plug. It may protest by screeching, and high effort may be noticed. The expected removal torque should be about 33 ft.-lbs. and decrease as the plug comes out. If the plug feels tighter than that, stop! Try turning the spark plug back in by half a turn, then back out again. If the turning torque still seems high, repeat the back-and-forth rotation, while adding more penetrating oil to reduce the turning effort.
The important thing here is to take your time. Some have suggested using air or power tools to "shock" the plug loose. Ford advises against this practice and it sounds like good advice. Anything that applies too much torque to the plug is likely to break it in two (or more) pieces, and that's something that any right-thinking person would want to avoid.
If, despite your careful efforts, one or more spark plugs still break off during removal, all hope is not lost. The Ford TSB (06-15-2) covers the full procedure for removing broken spark plug pieces. We don't have the space to cover the entire removal procedure here, so we'll hit the highlights instead.
When a plug breaks, it may take all of the insulator with it, or a portion may remain behind inside the ground electrode shield. All of the insulator must be removed first, before removing the empty shell of the ground electrode shield. If there's enough to grab on to, use long-reach needle-nose pliers to remove the insulator. More soaking may be required.
If the insulator has broken off flush with the ground electrode shield, as it did for Terry, purchase a drill bit that's designed for glass, ceramic, concrete, etc. Add a 6-in. drill extension and a right-angle drill, then slowly drill out the insulator. A sharp punch can be used to break the insulator into pieces, but try to keep any of the debris from entering the combustion chamber. Vacuum the area around the ground electrode shield when you're done.
The next step involves a special tool (Rotunda Special Service Tool 303-1203) that threads into the ground electrode shield, then pulls it out of the head. This tool is available in the aftermarket as well through OTC. The inside bore of the ground electrode shield must be tapped first, before the special tool can do its thing. As before, a steady approach will give you the best chance of success. If you need any extra motivation, just keep telling yourself, "I don't want to remove those cylinder heads."
When you're ready to install the new spark plugs, apply a film coating of high-temperature nickel antiseize lubricant (Motorcraft XL-2) to the ground electrode shield. Coating the electrode strap may cause a misfire. Do not apply lubricant to the threads and torque the plugs to 25 ft.-lbs. Thankfully, Ford changed the spark plug bore diameter slightly on later models, so this routine shouldn't be necessary on them.
This article was taken from Motor magazine January 2008, written by Karl Seyfert
