Diagnostic Tech: '92 Ford Tempo EECIV

We're going to need to set the Wayback Machine for 1992. Ford was using Electronic Engine Control System IV, or EECIV. By today's standards EECIV lacks sophistication but in its day it certainly performed its tasks very dependably.
On the plate today is a 1992 Ford Tempo w/2.3 engine and automatic transmission. The complaint is an intermittent Service Engine Soon light on and a high idle speed at that time. This system does store trouble codes in memory but should only turn the SES light while a code setting condition is present. In this case it just seemed to me that a test drive to verify the complaint was in order.
Initially the car ran fine. No light came on and even though I was driving in stop and go traffic there were no idle speed problems. I decided to return to the shop and just run the EECIV self-tests. When I pulled into the driveway the SES light came on. The idle speed was fine until I stopped and put the car's shifter into park position. The idle speed went to around 2000 rpm and stayed there for about three seconds before slowing back to normal. I had just verified the complaint. Time for the EECIV checks.
The car's test connector is at the left shock tower, near the battery. Technically there are two connectors. One is a single wire called the self-test input connector.
I'm going to mention that there are alternatives to retrieving codes. You don't have to use a scan tool. That being said, you will find the scan tool method more reliable with less chance of misreading a code number or accidentally clearing memory codes.
It is important to understand EECIV self-tests before using them to find a problem. Ford has the car's computer run specific tests and report back areas that failed the tests. The failures are reported as trouble codes. Running the tests improperly can give you misleading results.
A quick warmup cycle for the engine and I'll get started.
After connecting the scan tool to the test connector and entering the car data I want to start with "Quick Tests" and the Key On Engine Off tests. If a sensor fails the KOEO test then it should be repaired. You'll need a "Pass" or a no fault found condition in the KOEO self-test before any KOER (Key On Engine Running) tests can be reliably done.
The KOEO running test results are called "On Demand" codes. In this case I get a Pass code 111 which means no problems were found. After the On Demand codes are displayed the Keep Alive continuous memory codes will be displayed. The Keep Alive, or continuous codes are codes from the car's computer memory. Codes that have set in the past. This car has a 332 in memory. A 332 indicates insufficient EGR flow. I don't think a problem with the exhaust gas recirculation system it going to be related to the high idle or even the SES on at that time. An EGR not flowing should not cause the idle speed to be higher and since the EGR is not supposed to be flowing at idle anyway I don't think it would turn the light on at that time. I'm going to move on to the KOER tests because that test should be done before getting too involved with Continuous codes. The KOER test will reveal any sensor failures that happen during the test.
The KOER test codes indicate a 332 again. This time I know the EGR failed a test in real time and currently has a problem. Again though, I don't think it is related to the idle speed problem. Two more codes do indicate a problem with idle speed control, a 412 and 411. These codes indicate the car's computer not being able to control the idle speed. These codes do not store to memory so without running KOER tests we would not see them. If you think that was a lot of trouble to find that something is wrong with the idle speed you have a point. What was learned though is that the several sensors that contribute to the computer choosing an appropriate idle speed do pass self-tests. That means I should start by concentrating my efforts in testing the computer's ability to control the idle speed. In other words, I've learned that the inputs to the computer are likely to be fine but there is a problem with the idle control output circuit.
It's a good idea, I think, at this point to check the base idle and minimum air adjustment. Before any throttle adjustments are made I want to be sure I have a clean throttle plate. I'll remove the air intake hose, the MAF and the air cleaner cover as a unit. The throttle plate actually doesn't look too bad. It's pretty clean on the air cleaner side. The air filter looks good and the air cleaner housing was properly fastened.

When I open the throttle fully and look past the plate I can see major carbon buildup. I can even see why the EGR flow is low. The EGR passages are just behind the throttle body and fully plugged with carbon. The best thing to do here is remove the throttle body, remove the EGR valve and do some cleaning.

While we are in the neighborhood, this is a good time to remove the Idle Air Control (or Air Bypass Valve) and clean that passage as well. The engine computer uses this valve to control the amount of air that bypasses the throttle plate. The amount of air allowed controls the engine idle speed.

Once everything is clean and reinstalled it is a good idea to clean the MAF sensor or at least see if it needs cleaning. Two tamper proof screws hold the MAF to the MAF housing. A torx T20H will fit the screw heads. Carefully remove the MAF from the housing. With a magnifying glass and a good light you can look for dirt on the two tiny wires at the bottom of the sensor. If you see dirt, carefully clean it. These days there are spray MAF cleaners on the market. That wasn't always the case so I still use the same Berryman Spray Carb Cleaner that I always did. For stubborn spots I use a Q-tip as well.

This particular MAF looked pretty clean so after reinstalling it I let the engine warm up again. I know that I now have a clean throttle, a clean MAF, a clean IAC and a clean EGR passage but what I don't know is if I've fixed any of the complaints. It's time to run the KOER test again.

After getting the same results with the KOER self-test as before all this work, I decided to see just what was happening at the Idle Air Control as far as the computer control was concerned. The voltage at the IAC signal wire should roughly match the position being commanded by the computer. A command to open the valve 34% would have 3.4 volts. As a load is placed on the engine the command would increase, so a voltmeter could be used to check the command to see if the computer is trying to slow the idle speed during the high idle problem. Another method would be to disconnect the IAC wire connector from the valve and see if the engine slows. You see, the valve is spring loaded to return to minimum air position without a voltage command to the contrary. In fact, it is by disconnecting the IAC and adjusting the throttle position stop screw that minimum idle air is adjusted. All I have to do is wait for the high idle problem to appear. After a few minutes of running time the engine idle speed begins to race. When I disconnect the Idle Air Control the rpms do not change. The IAC valve is bad. I suspect a vacuum leak within the valve is the problem.

After replacing the IAC valve I now have no more racing idle and no more idle control related fault codes. One thing very good about the EECIV testing method is that I can rerun the test after a repair to verify the problem is fixed. The idle problem is fixed! BUT the EGR problem remains. I still have a 332 fault code in the KOER test.

During the KOER self-test the ECM will open the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid very briefly. This allows manifold vacuum to pass through the solenoid to the EGR valve. The vacuum should open the EGR valve. The pressure in the exhaust tube that runs to the EGR valve is measured by the PFE sensor. If the ECM has commanded the EGR solenoid to open yet does not see the PFE sensor voltage indicate a pressure change the ECM will assume the EGR is not working and will set the 332 fault code.

For testing purposes I like to use a length of vacuum hose and bypass the solenoid, feeding the vacuum directly to the EGR valve with the engine running at idle. If the engine nearly stalls then the valve is passing plenty of exhaust flow.



I started to do that here but noticed that the hose that feeds pressure from the EGR exhaust tube to the PFE sensor was broken. With a broken hose the PFE sensor would not be able to monitor the exhaust tube pressure change and would indeed set the 332 code. A replacement hose and another KOER test and this time the repairs were done! A complete system pass. No more light, no more high idle, no more codes!

Blotching seen on side windows

I have heard that the blotching seen on some side window glass under certain light conditions is normal and isn’t caused by flawed glass. Is this so?


No! This phenomenon is commonly found in tinted and tempered window glass which is used in side windows and the blotching is caused by a heat treating process which varies from batch to batch and the tint appears blotchy when the light reflects off of it at certain angles. It seems to be more prominent in some cars then in others.

A gas saving gadget that can improve fuel economy in your vehicle

I have heard that by using a simple vacuum gauge I can improve fuel economy of my vehicle. Is this so?

Yes! The gauge displays intake vacuum, which is an indication of how much load is on the engine and can be an excellent indicator of how hard the engine is working, along with how much fuel is being used. The greater the load or throttle input on the engine, the lower the vacuum reading and also the lower your gas mileage. So simply put, lower vacuum readings mean more power but less mileage, higher vacuum readings mean less power used, but more mileage. For diesels, higher boost means more power but more fuel used, lower boost is less power but better mileage.

Water pump tip

If the water pump is going to be out of an engine for more then a day, dunk it in coolant. This keeps the seal from drying out and will prevent it from leaking when you finally reinstall it.

Cleaning a a corroded battery terminal with Coca-Cola

I have heard that pouring coke on a corroded battery terminal is the best way to clean off the corrosion. Is this so?

NO! It does work to some extent, but coke contains enough acid, carbolic, phosphoric and citrus acid to make the metal bright and shiny, but it also leaves an acidic condition behind..Coke has a Ph of around 2.8, which will soon corrode the metal again, just as the battery acid did in the first place. Baking soda works better because it also neutralizes the battery acid and does not leave behind a corrosive acid film which is going to start attacking the wire.

Another fuel saving tip- A/C fan speed

I have heard that to save gasoline while using the A/C (air conditioner) use the low speed setting for the fan.

No! The energy consumption difference between running the fan on low speed and high speed is negligible and wouldn't show up in fuel consumption tests.

However, the A/C temperature setting is a critical factor in fuel
consumption since it directly correlates with how much the compressor runs. The compressor pulls up to 10 horsepower away from the motor. The best way to save fuel when using the A/C is to run the compressor as little as possible. Set the cabin temp on the warmest setting that still keeps you comfortable. Run the blower fan on its highest setting, which will maximize the convection cooling effect of the air coming out of the A/C ducts.

More Fuel saving tips!

Here are a few tips for saving fuel, often not thought of!

*Change the entire driveline over to synthetic oil and gain 10% fuel economy. Change to synthetic lubes in the engine, transmission, transfer case, and differential. Important: Not all synthetic oil is the same, and your results may vary. Added benefit: Extend the oil change interval 25-50% longer.


*Use a Car Cover if the vehicle is parked outside, a car cover may save time and energy. When used in sunbelt states and dark colored cars, a cover prevents the vehicle interior from being heated by the sun’s UV rays, the air conditioner has less heat to remove, cools the car faster with less energy. The 1- 2% fuel mileage gain will vary based on air temp, type of vehicle and driving habits. When used in snowbelt states, it can reduce defrost time by eliminating ice on the windshield and snow buildup in the defroster intake ducts located below the windshield.


*Use Window Tint Film Interlayer Film blocks the hot and harmful rays of the sun while still allowing crystal clear wireless transmission. This window solar film shades the specific light wavelengths that heat the car, reducing the load on the a/c. Tests have shown that compact cars in a traffic jam that use air conditioning can expect an increase in fuel economy of approximately 3%.



*Use Injector Cleaners Plugged fuel injectors Can rob fuel mileage by up to 12%. Regular use of an injector cleaning gas additive or annual injector cleaning is necessary.



*Replace the Oxygen sensor. Pre-1996 vehicles can have lazy oxygen sensors without the driver ever knowing it, which can rob fuel mileage by 10-15%. On these older cars, replace the oxygen sensor(s) if over 100,000 miles or 10 years old.

Manual transmission fluid changes

I have heard that manual transmissions should have the fluid changed because the fluid like automatic transmissions degrades.

No, In a manual transmission, the problem is not so much the fluid degradation, but rather fluid contamination. This contamination occurs over time as the synchronizers, bearings and gears in the transmission wear out. The resulting metal particles then float around in the lubricant. And we all know that oil with microscopic particles of metal in it does not lubricate as well as clean oil. So if these contaminants are not drained out, they will shorten the life of your transmission.

E85 flex fuel conversions and using E85 in a gasoline-only powered vehicle:

Is it possible to convert a vehicle that was designed for gasoline to operate on E85? Yes. However, there are no conversion or aftermarket parts that have been certified by the EPA as meeting the standards to maintain clean exhaust emissions. Technically speaking, converting a vehicle that was designed to operate on unleaded gasoline only to operate on another form of fuel is a violation of the federal law and the offender may be subject to significant penalties. No aftermarket conversion company has taken the initiative to certify an E85 kit that would allow a gasoline vehicle to operate on 85% ethanol.

Ok, Then what would happen if I accidentally fuel my gasoline-only powered vehicle with E85?

Although your vehicle was not manufactured to run on E85, no problems should occur if you mistakenly fuel once with the alternative fuel. The largest difference between an E85 powered vehicle and a gasoline powered vehicle is that their computer modules are meant to read different amounts of oxygen within the fuel. E85 contains a higher amount of oxygen than gasoline and E85 compatible vehicles are made to read that higher amount. When a higher amount of oxygen is read by a gasoline powered vehicle, your "check engine light" may appear. A number of other parts on the FFV's fuel delivery system are modified to be ethanol-compatible. The fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel injectors, computer system and anti-siphon device have been modified slightly. Alcohol fuels can be more corrosive than gasoline. Therefore; fuel system parts have been upgraded to be ethanol-compatible.

Topping off conventional coolant with long life coolant

I have heard that if the cooling system in an older vehicle that has conventional coolant is topped off with long life coolant it will shorten the life of the conventional coolant. Is this so?

No, because the normal life of conventional coolant is only 2 years/24000miles, adding long life coolant will have no effect on the service life of the conventional coolant. However, adding conventional coolant to a cooling system filled with long life coolant will shorten the life of the long life coolant.

Diagnostic Tech: 02 Buick Century A/C

It's been a hot summer and that places a lot of demand on air conditioning systems. Today's project is a 2002 Buick Century, automatic transmission and the 3.1 vin J engine. The complaint is no cold air from the air conditioner. On the drive into the service area I notice the blower works fine and the air flow is from the proper vents. When I cycle the A/C switch on I notice there is no compressor clutch engagement and there is no electric cooling fan operation.
Remember, when you turn the A/C switch on you are making a request to the powertrain control module. If the PCM sees the request and determines the conditions are correct it will engage the compressor clutch and it will engage the cooling fan. Since neither the fan or compressor are engaging I'm going to initially look for a condition that would cause the PCM to "decide" not to comply with the request. The system on this particular car is not automatic temperature control but a manual system with dual temperature control. The manual system looks at fewer inputs then the automatic so *should* be easier to diagnose.
One very basic check is system pressure. If the system pressure is too low, the PCM will not turn the A/C on. I choose to connect a set of gauges to the system for the pressure test. That way, if the system proves to be low of refrigerant I'm ready to charge it without missing a beat.











In this case the stabilized pressures are approximately 120psi so there is plenty of refrigerant and certainly enough to allow the compressor to engage. Since I have started along this path though it's a good idea to continue the journey before looking elsewhere. *I* know the system has good pressure but I don't know if the *PCM* knows it. The PCM won't be looking at a set of gauges, it will be looking at the pressure signal voltage from the pressure sensor. The pressure sensor is located in the pressure line in the area below the air cleaner housing.
I can check the voltage at the sensor with a meter but if I start with a scan tool and look at the A/C pressure sensor data I'll be looking at what the PCM "sees". If I start at the sensor and do the voltage check with a meter and the voltage checks good, I would still have to check the scan tool data. But, if I check the scan tool data first and it is good then there is no need to check the sensor voltage.



I can't miss an opportunity to check stored trouble codes so once I connect the scan tool I do just that. The PCM has stored DTC P0530. P0530 indicates a problem with the A/C refrigerant pressure sensor circuit. This code certainly tells me that I'm on the right path and I pull up the A/C pressure data items.

The A/C pressure readings are certainly out of the ordinary. The PCM sees no voltage from the pressure sensor and calculates a VACUUM condition (-15 psi)! I think it is time to do some voltage checks at the sensor. The pressure sensor has three wires. It has a 5 volt reference voltage, a ground and a signal return to the PCM. As the pressure changes the voltage on the signal return will vary. The PCM will use that voltage signal to determine system pressure.

With the sensor wiring connected I verify the reference voltage and ground are good at the sensor connector. A check of the signal wire shows no voltage so I'm almost ready to condemn the sensor. I need to verify the signal circuit is not shorted to ground. A short to ground would kill the sensor output voltage even with a good sensor. It won't work to disconnect the sensor and check for a ground on the circuit because the pulldown resistor inside the PCM would ground the open circuit. I wouldn't know if there was a short to ground unless I also disconnected the PCM connector. I didn't disconnect the PCM. I cut the signal wire a few inches from the sensor and checked for voltage on the sensor side of the wire. When I found no voltage output from the sensor then I KNEW I had a bad sensor.

FIX:

Replace the A/C Pressure Sensor.

Stretched lug nuts!

I have heard that if you put grease or anti-seize compound on your wheel mounting studs, it will make the threads on the lug nuts stretch, requiring replacement of them.

That’s ridiculous, stretched lug nuts! No. If you want to facilitate removing the wheels, especially when operating in conditions were salt is present (as in northern states or near the ocean), it is prudent to use anti-seize compound on the threads and the mating surfaces where the steelnut seats against the alloy wheel. This will keep the nut from galling the rim, as well as having a chemical reaction between a lug and rim that welds the nut to the rim. Remember that using a lubricant also increases torque values, so you should back off on the torque specs just a bit to compensate.

Diagnostic Tech: 99 Ford Escort

Today's project is a 1999 Ford Escort ZX2 with 2.0 vin 3 engine and with automatic transmission. The complaint is that the A/C is not cold. The blower works. The air flow is good and from the proper vents.
One of the other techs here in the shop has made some initial checks and informs me that there is sufficient refrigerant in the system but the compressor clutch does not engage. With that information I run a simple test on the drive into the shop. I make sure the A/C is turned off before I start the car and on the way into shop turn the A/C on. I'm listening for the radiator fan to run. It does run. The radiator fan is turned on when I turn the A/C on. Why is that important? I'll get to that.
On this car (and on most cars) you aren't actually turning the air conditioning on when you turn the switch on. You are sending a signal to one of the control modules "requesting" the A/C on. Under normal conditions the control module "sees" the request, checks that conditions are met to allow air conditioning to operate and THEN operates the air conditioning system. If the control module sees a condition that isn't within specifications, such as a low refrigerant condition, it won't command the air conditioning on.
The powertrain control module is the module used to control the compressor and fan systems on this car. When the PCM sees a request voltage at its connector pin 41 and it sees no reason not to run the air conditioning it should do two things that are important to this diagnosis. It should command the compressor clutch on and it *SHOULD COMMAND THE COOLING FAN ON*. The fact that the fan came on with the A/C switch turned on means that the control switch works and that the PCM sees no reason not to turn the compressor on. It even verifies the pressure switches are fine because the request voltage from the switch must pass through the low pressure switch and high pressure switch on the way to pin 41 of the PCM.
Since I know the problem is on the PCM output to compressor clutch side of the system the best place to do some tests is at the constant control relay module. The relay module is a true black box containing several relays and mounted directly under the air cleaner housing at the left inner fender. The PCM may be the one making commands but the constant control relay module is doing the work.

Pin 21 of the CCRM is the power feed to the clutch relay inside the module. It should be powered with the key on. This is easily checked with a circuit tester and there is power to the relay. When the relay is closed the power feed to pin 21 should be fed to pin 23 and on to the compressor clutch. When I apply power to pin 23 the clutch does work so I know the wiring to the compressor is good. Since I have power to the relay and know that the clutch will work with power then I know that the relay is not closing. To close the relay needs a ground signal at pin 22. This signal should come from the PCM. It is the "command" for the compressor clutch to operate.

The coil side of the relay is provided power by the PCM power relay. This means that with the engine running and the A/C switch off there should be voltage at pin 22 of the CCRM. With the A/C on and the PCM commanding the relay closed there should be a ground at pin 22. With the Power Probe circuit tester I find I have everything I need at the relay to make the relay close. The relay has failed. Since the relay is integral to the CCRM the entire module should be replaced.

What should be done after machining the brake rotors?

I have heard that after machining brake rotors, before they are ready for use, you must prep them for installation by sanding the machined surface lightly with sand paper. Is this so?

No! This does not remove the metal filings caught in the machined surface, and may even add abrasive material to the rotors. Failure to properly clean freshly turned brake rotors causes metal contamination.This may contaminate the ABS wheel sensor and make the ABS operate during slow speed stops. This can also cause uneven pad wear, pulling and noise. Always thoroughly wash the metal filings from machined rotors with hot soapy water. Then dry them with paper towels before installing.

Auto insurance term- "Betterment"

Has your car been in an accident? Perhaps you have come across the term “Betterment”. Betterment is an improvement that increases the value of the vehicle or part of the vehicle.

Betterment is an interesting concept. Insurance, as you know, is designed to put you back into the position that you were in before a claim occurred. In other words, if your house burns down, insurance should rebuild your house. If your car is damaged, insurance should repair your car. Easy enough, right?
Well, some things need to be replaced and put you in a position "better" than you would normally be in. For example, what if your brakes need to be replaced? If your brakes were worn and now they are brand new, you have been "bettered." In this case, the insurance company can take betterment. Think of this as depreciation.

However, betterment cannot occur to certain things. You cannot better a body part of a car. Why? Because they do not wear out. Betterment only applies to parts that wear out. Have you ever seen a hood wear out? Probably not. Why? Because they generally do not wear out. So, if the insurance company replaces your hood, they should not charge you betterment. If they do, you should yell and scream and tell them that they need to stop!

Letting the engine idle after a long trip

I have heard that once you reach your point of destination after driving from a long trip you should not shut the car off instantly and let the engine idle for a few minutes. Is this so?


No! Unless the engine has a turbo charger, idling like that only wastes gasoline, and does nothing else. But if it has a turbo, let it for a minute so the turbo has time to spin down.

Changing the automatic transmission fluid when burnt

I have heard that you shouldn’t change the automatic transmission fluid until it is burnt. If you do your wasting your money unnecessary.

No! By the time the fluid turns dark it has lost most of it’s additive package and it’s ability to lubricate. If you wait until the fluid is burnt your going to cause damage to the transmission and at the very least your going to shorten the transmissions life.

Towing troubles- A recent study on Towing

On Masterlock's web site there is a report called "Towing Troubles - Danger on America's Road". Here is a summary of the document. You probably had no idea all this was going on! The site this summary comes from is mentioned at the end of this blog.


What Are They Towing?

• Most Americans tow using a pickup (57%) or a sports utility vehicle (31%)
• Some 10 percent of respondents were towing with a vehicle that was ranked only moderately or poorly appropriate for the class of trailer they were towing while 10 percent did not have the most appropriate towing vehicle for the type of trailer they were towing
• A majority (80%) use Class III trailer hitches

Where Are They Going?

• More than one-quarter of respondents (28%) traveled between 50 and 100 miles, while nearly half (47%) traveled more than 100 miles to their destination towing a trailer

Their Negligence is Showing

• A majority (51%) of Americans who tow do not use the recommended security methods of a locking device for their coupler and hitch
• Nearly 50 percent (48%) of respondents towing boats use only a non-locking receiver pin to connect their trailer, which is susceptible to tampering
• Respondents towing campers had the best approach to safety, with 69 percent using both locks and pins to secure their vehicles, 69 percent using weight distribution systems, 71 percent using appropriately crossed security chains and 52 percent having a properly leveled trailer
• Nearly 50 percent (47%) of those towing boats didn't properly cross their safety chains under the coupler.
• A majority of respondents towing boats or ATVs/jet skis/motorcycles achieved a moderate or worse ranking on the levelness of their trailer. For ATVs/jet skis/motorcycles, 15 percent were ranked poor or extremely poor
• More than 50 percent (53%) of towing vehicles and trailers received only moderate or poor rankings on their electrical systems. Boat trailers presented the greatest danger, with 17 percent of their electrical systems in poor or extremely poor condition
• Trailer tires are one of the biggest dangers on the road, with 41 percent of tires in only moderate or worse condition. Some 10 percent of boat trailers had tires in poor or extremely poor condition.


Their Cargo is Overflowing

• Security of cargo on the trailers also is an issue, with more than 54 percent of campers, 28 percent of ATVs/jet skis/motorcycles and 49 percent of boats ranking as moderate or worse in their cargo security
• The security of additional cargo – loaded in the boats or campers – was a significant issue, with 32 percent of respondents ranking moderate and 40 percent ranking poor or extremely poor. This means coolers, lawn chairs, bicycles, and other typical cargo could easily fall into the path of an oncoming car
• The condition of bungee cords was a major issue – 46 percent were in moderate or poor condition and improperly located – meaning cords could easily snap or come unhooked and release cargo onto the roadway
• Ratchet tie-downs were a problem for 39 percent of respondents, as those towing boats or ATVs/jet skis/motorcycles received moderate or worse marks for the condition and location of the tie-downs securing their cargo



There web site for towing information including some audio/video can be found at http://www.towingtroubles.com/

Towing with an automatic transmission

Is it true that if you’re pulling a load with an automatic transmission equipped car or light truck you should start out in the ‘D’ or drive position, then shift into overdrive ‘OD’ once you reach highway speeds.

No! If your pulling a load, trailer RV, etc, start out by manual shifting into low, then second , then third, then drive. Manual shifting through the gears raises the hydraulic pressures in the transmission which helps out because it makes applications of the bands and the clutches much firmer in the transmission, increasing the life of it. You should leave it in drive unless your on flat level ground and can shift into overdrive without the transmission hunting.

Buried Car Headed To Frederick, Maryland

A vintage car (mentioned here on our blog the last few weeks)buried for 50 years in Tulsa, Oklahoma, is coming to Frederick, MD.


The new 1957 Plymouth Belvedere was buried in honor of Tulsa's 50th birthday celebration in 1957. It was unearthed during a centennial celebration last month and was awarded to the closest living relative of Ray Humbertson -- the man who, 50 years ago, most closely guessed the city's current population. Humbertson died in 1979 so the car is being given to his sister, Catherine Johnson of Bowling Green, Maryland. Her Frederick nephew Bob Carney will try to remove 50 years of rust and make the car presentable. He won't do a full restoration, which he says would remove some of the car's historic value. Tulsa will give the car to Johnson on September 14th.

'Posted from WUSA9.com on 7/18/2007 '

When the cabin air filter does not appear to be working!

If you can smell smoke when driving near a fire where someone is burning leaves, is this a good indication that your vehicles cabin air filter is not functioning properly and needs to be replaced?

No! The strong odor of smoke is not an indication that the cabin air filter needs replacing, because most cabin air filters contain only a paper filter which removes only dust or pollen. Only absorption type of filters, one’s that contain active charcoal that are found in high priced luxury cars can actually filter out noxious odors. However you may be able to buy a high end absorption cabin filter with charcoal to replace the paper one.

Determining when you need an alignment

My car shakes at “x” number of miles per hour. Do I need an alignment? Shakes , shimmy rarely has anything to do with alignment. But my car is pulling to the right as I go down the road! Does this indicate I need an alignment?


No! well then what does determine whether I need an alignment?


Tire wear that affects the edge of one or both of the tires on one end of the car. That suggests that you need an alignment. However, if you rotate your tires properly, every 6,000 to 7,500 miles your probably not going to notice this wear on any tires.

When you rotate the tires you should be using what is called a modified “x” pattern. Meaning two of the tires are going to be crossed to the opposite side of the car. For a front-wheel-drive car, it works like this: The tire on the right rear would go to the left front, and the left rear tire to the right front. The two front ones come straight back. For rear-wheel drive, just reverse the pattern.

By doing all this if the alignment is slightly off your not going to notice it and more importantly and some cars take to a certain wear pattern, which just might be natural. Remember abnormal tire wear can be caused by too little tire pressure, too much tire pressure, failure to rotate tires.

One exception to the modified “x” pattern is if your car has directional tires or directional wheels. These tires should remain on the same side of the vehicle and be rotated straight forward and straight back. The other consideration is if the tires on the front and the rear are of different size.

Do Aftermarket coolant system additives, known as surfactants really work?

First what is a surfactant? A surfactant or surface active agent, is a molecule that has a water-loving end (hydrophilic and water fearing end (hydrophobic). Localized boiling of coolant in the cylinder head can create large shock waves that can wreck havoc on your engine, particularly on aluminum components.

In general, there are three main reasons why using these additives is beneficial to your cooling system. Firstly, they reduce harmful cavitations and foaming that may occur when your water pump is kicking out fluid at a rapid pace. This reduced foaming helps to prevent damage to aluminum surfaces. Secondly, the use of these additives aid in the transmission of heat from the coolant to the radiating surfaces within the radiator. Even if your car runs very cool, these additives add a extra level of protection in case a thermostat or similar component fails. Thirdly, the additives contain corrosion inhibitors. Most cars on the road have cooling systems that do not contain the ideal 50/50 water / antifreeze ratio that the antifreeze manufacturers design for. The additives help to minimize potential corrosion by maintaining adequate pH levels. Even if your antifreeze already contains surfactant additives, the use of these additional additives is typically beneficial because most cars are shortchanged on the 50/50 coolant/water mix.

In general surfactants will reduce the temperature of the cooling system by 10 degrees.
Examples of surfactants would be,

. Redline’s “Water wetter”
. Royal Purple’s “Purple Ice”
. Lubguard’s “Kool-it”
. BG “Super Cool”

Can Synthetic oils be used in roller bearing applications?

I have heard that

Synthetic oils can't be used in roller bearing applications because synthetic oil is too slippery. Because of this, the rollers bearings tend to slide rather than roll which leads to accelerated wear of the rollers.

No!. The exact opposite it true. The chopping action of the roller bearings causes the failure of the viscosity improver additives found in petroleum oils, not high-quality synthetics. For example, a 10w-40 petroleum oil might sheer back to something like a 5w-10. This loss of viscosity results in breakdown of film strength. When this happens, there can be metal-to-metal contact of the surfaces of the roller and crankshaft(or camshaft) inside the engine which results in scuffing damage of these parts.

In fact many Harley Davidson dealership technicians for years up until recently have been are telling customers that synthetic motor oil is "too slippery" and can cause flat spots on roller bearings because the bearings won't turn. Now Harley Davidson recommends synthetic’s!

Automatic vs. Manual transmissions-Which is more durable and economical?

I have heard that cars with manual transmissions are more durable and economical then those with automatic transmissions. Is this so?

No, Some years ago manual transmissions were more durable and made the vehicle more fuel efficient than automatics, but now you can kiss that rule goodbye. This turn of events comes from two significant changes; lighter weight materials, and automatic transmissions, which have become more efficient in transferring power from the engine over the years. While the automatics have been steadily marching forward, most manual transmissions have just become lighter and smaller.

This brings us to a very important point. When you buy your next car don’t buy a manual transmission unless you enjoy the sport of shifting. Simply stated, if you’re a person who hates to shift but purchases stick shift only because you think it’s more durable, buy an automatic. Given proper care and usage the automatic will usually deliver nearly equal gas mileage and life.

Whether there is a penalty in fuel economy between automatic and manual transmissions depends solely on the skill of the driver. Usually automatics doing slightly better for Real World drivers. That's due to the fact that proper manual transmission driving skills are not usually taught these days.

Is there a need to put any additives in diesel fuel?

I have heard that there’s never any need to put any additives in diesel fuel. Is this so?

No! That statement was made by Mike Allen a writer for Popular Mechanics magazine. While they can add a few more dollars to operating cost, they reduce the risk of the engine having problems with untreated fuel. The risks are water contamination, which can cause injection failure. Additives stabilize the water, preventing from accumulating in large quantities. Prevent injection nozzle deposits which cause poor fuel atomization and fuel consumption. There are also lubrication problems with less sulfur in the fuel today, which additives can remedy. Additives can also increase your cetane number. So additives in diesel fuel are a good idea!

The picture on upper the left shows the BG Diesel Fuel Lubricant with Conditioner. It provides the necessary film strength and lubricity to low-sulfur and ultra-low sulfur diesel fuel to prevent fuel pump and injection parts from scoring and seizing. One thing that is pretty good about this product is that just Two ounces (60 mL) of BG Diesel Fuel Lubricant with Conditioner treats up to 40 gallons (150 Liters) of diesel fuel. Catalytic converter and oxygen sensor safe. Part No. 227D

Miss Belvedere... Miss Belvedere...

By now I would assume that everyone knows the fate of Dear Miss Belvedere.

(Be certain to click on the link at the end for the latest photo gallery)

But, was it a delight? or a disaster?... That really depends upon your point of view and also what you were expecting from this 'time capsule' endevour.
I personally was hoping to see that Miss Belvedere had survived the ravages of time with little if any harm.
After all, she was "properly" sealed and entombed to suffer little if any harm for the next FIFTY years.
Imagine my heartbreak when I saw those first reports and pics.
The "capsule" had leaked.
In fact, from what I could see in the pics, the whole dang vault was FILLED with water.
I can see the water-line in the pics, ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP!

So here I am, wanting to place blame and tell them so-and-so "engineers" how they *should* have built it, how they *should* have realized basic liquid/hydraulic properties.
How their PHD's didn't mean squat and how *I* had more common sense than them!

Thank Goodness they couldn't hear me!

You see, it took a few days for my common sense to return.
A few days for my disappointment to wane.
A few days until I could REALLY appreciate the TRUE meaning of Miss Belvedere.

As the days went on, more and more reports and pics of the Tulsarama event became
available (I must admit, they did a good job keeping the website up to date).
Especially the contents, THE TOTAL CONTENTS, of the "time capsule".
And also the people, they were not sad. Everyone was jumping out of their seats!

THAT is when I finally realized...
It didn't matter what condition Miss Belvedere was in!
It didn't matter if ANY of the contents survived!

This was about HOPE.
A better future.
Our (their's) prediction of what the future may hold, NOT THE PAST!

We all know "dust to dust" (refer to your favorite scriptures for the whole answer).
We CAN'T stop what is "gonna be" or even "what was".

We can see however, evidence of what we wanna be and evidence of what may come.

As you peruse the pics at the official site, keep in mind the glory of this endevour, the effort that was put into place, for our benefit.

Also take careful note how well preserved (WELL PRESERVED) the items are from
the capsule within a capsule.

You will be DELIGHTED!

How many of you remember these records!!!














Go here to see the most recent pics!!!

http://www.buriedcar.com/photo_gallery.asp

Pics from
http://www.buriedcar.com/photo_gallery.asp


.

Are all Gas caps created equally?

I noticed there are so many different Gas caps on the market. Are all gas caps created the same?

NO, according to Stant a major manufacturer of radiator caps, thermostats and gas caps, there are many different caps on the store shelves and they aren’t any good. They fail to keep the gas in the tank and in a crash they may fail to seal properly. They can leak enough vapor to turn on the check engine light and cause the vehicle to fail an emissions test. So if you lost your cap beware when shopping for a replacement, since not all gas caps are created equally. Be aware of cheap bogus replacement caps, stay with original equipment or buy a name brand like Stant, Robertshaw, or Gates.

A bit of history of Gas Caps can be found at http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1252&location_id=170

Raising The Belvedere, This Friday!

Remember that next Friday is the day when Tulsa's "time capsule" gets unearthed.
You may recall that Ken posted in March about the Belvedere that was buried in Tulsa in 1957 as a time capsule.

Here is the official Schedule...

Tulsarama! 1957 Plymouth Time Capsule Unearthing, 6.17.2007

On June 15, 1957, a new gold and white 1957 Plymouth Belvedere Sport Coupe was buried in a time capsule in downtown Tulsa, OK. The time capsule was part of Golden Jubilee Week: Tulsa's celebration of Oklahoma's semi-centennial. The car is buried under the sidewalk in front of the Tulsa County Courthouse, approximately 100 feet north of the intersection of Sixth Street and Denver Avenue.
As part of the "Tulsarama!" festivities, citizens of Tulsa were asked to guess what the population of Tulsa would be in the year 2007. The guesses were then recorded on microfilm and sealed in a steel container buried with the car. When the car and artifacts are excavated, the person whose guess is closest to Tulsa's 2007 population is to be awarded the Belvedere.


Time Capsule Event Schedule

Friday - June 15, 2007 @
noon
UNEARTHING. Limited VIP and special seating on Denver Street. LIVE SIMULCAST of the unearthing in the Convention Center, Exhibit Hall A.

Friday - June 15, 2007 @ 6:30pm
UNVEILING in the Arena in the Convention Center. $5 AND $10 tickets available through Carson Attractions. The l957 Plymouth will be pulled on a trailer into the Arena where we will open the automobile, have simulcast on screens above the arena of the interior of the car.
Time Capsule will be opened, contents pulled out. OU Engineering Research will take a very small sample of the gasoline put into the l957 Time Capsule for research on fuels. $10 tickets will be good for one time admission into the Car Show on Sat. and Sun.

Saturday - June 16, 2007 10am to 8pm
TULSARAMA INVITATIONAL CAR SHOW in Exhibit Halls B&C in the Convention Center Starring "THE BURIED BELVEDERE" Very special classic and collected automobiles will be on exhibit, displays of Tulsa History and culture and of course....the Unearthed Buried Belvedere and its contents will be on display for everyone to view.

Content Derived From:

http://ww3.visittulsa.com/events.asp?id=11&eventsid=2050&seldate=6/1/2007
~AND~
http://www.buriedcar.com/photo_gallery.asp

Engine oil flushing- Is it a necessary part of engine maintenance?

I have heard that Engine oil flushing is a necessary part of engine maintenance. Is this so?

NO! At best engine oil flushing does nothing but lighten the consumers wallet. At worse flushing the engine with a flushing machine thins out the oil which causes accelerated engine wear. Remember that the flushing machine flushes out the oil but does not get all the flush out, which is left behind, and that flush does not provide lubrication when you start up the engine again. It takes a bit of time to get the oil pump going.

So at the very worse it can cause engine wear, and even chunks of sludge can become dislodged and plug up the oil filter. Typically flushing increases engine wear and does not do anything for the sludge, because the sludge is above where the flushing material is and does not get even touched as the flushing solution moves through the engine.

Seat Belts

You jump into your vehicle, turn the key and start the motor, put it into gear and off you go. Did you forget to do something?? How about buckling up. In most states, that’s a law. But what do we mean by” buckling up”? It means to put your seat belt on. Why should I wear my seat belt? Because it can save you from injury or even death. The seat belt is a harness designed to secure the occupant against harmful movement that may result from a collision or a sudden stop. Seat belts are intended to reduce injuries by stopping the wearer from hitting hard interior elements of the vehicle or preventing the wearer from being thrown from the vehicle. Most seat belts are equipped with locking mechanisms that tighten the belt when pulled hard like by the force of a passenger's body during a crash, but do not tighten when pulled slowly. They work with a centrifugal clutch, which engages as the reel spins quickly. Alternatively, they may also be secured by a weighted pendulum or ball bearing: when these are deflected by deceleration or roll-over they lock into pawls on the reel. They are included in the cost of your vehicle. Why not use something that you are paying for.Buckle up and you will definitely stay with your loved ones a lot longer.

Dark engine oil- does it mean it needs changing?

I have heard that dark engine oil indicates the need for an oil change. Is this so?

No! The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge.

If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. Remember, a good oil should get dirty as it does it's work cleaning out the engine. The dispersant should stop all the gunk from depositing in the oil pan.

A good test to see if the oil needs changing is to feel it in your fingers.(Caution: used oil is toxic and carcinogenic. If you get it on your skin, it could cause problems. Use gloves!) If it feels grity, that is an indication it should be changed.

Some Summer Car Care Tips

It seems safe to say winter is over, spring has sprung and just around the bend it will be summer time

again. With the summer weather comes the hot temperatures. Is your car ready for the summer?

Have you had the engine cooling system checked? No, I don't mean the air conditioner when I say

"Cooling System" I mean the system that prevents the engine from running too hot. The antifreeze, fan

belt or belts, water pump, thermostat and radiator. I've worked on many vehicles that had overheated

because the cooling system was not checked and a simple thing like the fan belt that drives the water

pump broke causing the engine to overheat. A small investment that would have prevented a very

expensive repair to the engine had the cooling system been checked for summer use. If your vehicle is

five years old or more you should have the cooling system drained, flushed and new antifreeze installed.

The radiator, water pump and fan belts should also be carefully inspected. I would recommend a qualified

auto technician perform this service.

How about the windshield wiper blades? They usually get pretty beat up over the winter months due to the

snow and ice. Now is a good time to replace them. There are some auto parts stores that will even replace

the blades for you at no extra charge.

OK, now lets get to the tires, you know, those four round things that keep your car from touching the

ground. It seems most owners neglect ever checking the condition of the tire wear much less the

pressure in the tires. Good tire condition and proper inflation will give you safer handling and better fuel

economy and with the cost of fuel, that is a real plus.

Well we now have the engine running cool, we can see out the windshield when it rains and our vehicle

rides and handles great so off we go only to find that it is hot as you know what inside of our vehicle.

WHAT happened to the air conditioner.
Most of the vehicles today will retain their refrigerant charge for a good number of years but should be

checked for proper performance by a qualified technician in the AC field. Yea, I know what your going to

say. If my system doesn't get cold like it did when I first bought it, I can go to a Wal-Mart or other parts

store and buy one of those recharge kits and do it myself. Now, I'm not saying you can't, what I'm saying is

that a low refrigerant charge may not be the problem and that by adding additional refrigerant to the

system you may be creating a dangerous condition of excessive high pressure which could cause a

refrigerant hose to rupture which may cover you with refrigerant and cause injury to your body especially

your face or eyes, or a compressor to seize up and damage drive belts or other parts of your vehicle. I

strongly recommend you have the system serviced by a qualified AC technician.

Recharging your automobiles A/C, yourself

It's going to be summer soon, and in many parts of the world, things are going to be heating up. Make sure your A/C is running at its best. If the AC isn't quite as cool as it used to be, the solution might be as simple as recharging the system. The air coming out of the vents should probably be between 40*F and 50*F unless it's very hot outside. If the air coming out is much warmer than this, your A/C is probably not functioning properly.

Cautions: The A/C system is under high pressure. Also, while R134a isn't as bad for the environment as the older R12, there is still a heavy fine for venting R134a into the atmosphere. You should never take apart your A/C system without proper training and refrigerant recovery equipment. Wear protective glasses at all times while servicing your A/C. Also, you will be working under or near the car while it is running. Please observe all safety precautions and refer to our disclaimer for carfix_online at the bottom of every email!

With the car running and A/C on Max, pop the hood and listen for or watch the A/C compressor pulley. It has a clutch, so the center of the pulley may spin intermittently. It should start and spin for 30 seconds or longer. If after 90 seconds it never spins, make sure your A/C is turned on. If it spins for just a few seconds, stops, then starts again after a few seconds, it is short cycling. Either of these could be caused by low refrigerant levels. There may be a leak or something more serious at fault.

Interdynamics makes it very conventient for a DYI’er (do-it-yourself) to recharge a R134a system. There quick charge charging gun QCK-2CS,(a video of it can be seen later in this article) and you simply connect the hose to the low-pressure port, screw a can of refrigerant into the Quick Charge, squeeze the trigger to dispense and release to stop. Quick Charge will automatically give you a pressure reading on the built-in gauge. Quick Charge is completely re-usable.

Locate the Low-pressure A/C recharge port of your system. The low-pressure port usually has a blue or black dust cap and is located on the larger diameter metal tubing that runs between the evaporator (in the dashboard) and the compressor. If you can’t find it or your not sure stop here and seek professional help!

With the car off, a rule of thumb is that the pressure should read about the same as the ambient temperature in Fahrenheit. If it's 80 degrees outside, the pressure at this service port should be somewhere around 80 PSI.

Start the car and run the A/C on high with recirculation as shown below. This will make sure that the A/C pump is running as hard as possible. If the A/C compressor isn't running (you can usually hear it), the pressure may read high. If the A/C compressor never starts, or if it's short-cycling, the readings could be off. If the system needs recharging, start adding refrigerant to the system per the instructions that came with the recharge kit. For the Interdynamics charging gun, you simply read the pressure, then momentarily hold the trigger down to add refrigerant. Release the trigger, and check the pressure again.

A few other things to note. There is a high-pressure service port under the hood (covered with a plastic cap, near the radiator). A high pressure gauge hooked up to this port, combined with the low pressure gauge in the recharge kit, can point out a failure with the expansion valve or the compressor. These high-pressure gauges use a different size of connector, and are not usually sold with the "do-it-yourself" style A/C recharge.Note: You can't repair an AC system properly with just a low side gauge. It requires a low side and high side reading to know what is actually going on!

The video below is taken from the “The Two guys” TV show.

It shows the Quick Charge
charging gun and how it is used.

http://www.id-usa.com/video/interdynamics-shortvideo(WindowsMedia-DSL).wmv

What to Do and Not Do in the Event of an Accident

What to Do and Not Do in the Event of an Accident

What You Need to Know After an Auto Accident

The worst thing has just happened to you. You have had an accident. There's never a good time to have an accident but it always seems to happen at the worst possible time. So what do you do? First off you need to stay calm. It's a totally natural reaction to lose your head or panic right when you need to be rational. Just after the accident is the time you should be taking note of all the information you will need to ensure that you are fully compensated and covered for any damage done to your property or to you. Talk to witnesses, get their contact details, make notes and take pictures if possible at the time of the accident. You'll be glad you did as it will be difficult to accurately recall all of the details as time passes. Finally remember not to admit that you caused the accident, even if you did.

Right after the accident this will all be the last thing you think of, so make a checklist and keep it in the car.
While you are at the Accident Scene, note the following details
You will need:
Driver Details of everyone involved in the accident. Don't forgrt to add yours too. These details should cover the Drivers Name, driving license details, and driver insurance details including the insurance company name, policy number, and contact details. Finally remember to get the car license plate number. If you are carrying a camera take pictures of the accident scene, the damaged vehicles, and any injuries that were caused by the accident. Note the contact details of any witnesses such as name, address, phone number and email address so that you can follow up with them later.

Post-Accident Follow Up
Complete your own fully detailed description of the accident as soon as possible after it occurred. You can fill this in with the details and any pictures that you took at the scene of the accident. If you were injured then take pictures of your injuries. Follow up with the witnesses to the accident and get their written details of the accident. If the Police attended the scene of the accident ask for their report.

After the Accident
If you were injured you will need to keep track of the following medical expenses and visits:
Any hospital visits and treatments at hospitals such as MRI, x-ray, physiotherapy and laboratory services. Over the counter and prescription medications.
You should keep track of the dates, times and reasons you had to visit a doctor or the hospital, and keep a note of the time off of work due to the accident. If the time off caused a loss of income, you should get a letter detailing all of the lost income from your employer. Similarly if you are still in school you should keep track of all of the hours of missed schooling due to the accident.
While you are undertaking medical treatment you should take pictures of your injuries to show their progress over time. Keep a log of the date and time of the picture and add details of any pain that you are experiencing, how you are feeling, and any distress or discomfort that you experience as a result of the accident.
Keep track of all other expenses related to the accident. These will include some of the following: Property damages such as car repairs, damage to barriers, fences and signs.
Some other indirect expenses may also occur such as a cancelled vacation due to injuries sustained in the accident or the cost of a rental car while yours is repaired. Finally there are other miscellaneous costs, such as ointments,lotions to treat your injuries, and bandages.

Finally
Never reply to any questions or queries from any other party involved in or related to the accident, such as insurance companies or attorneys without first consulting your attorney. Do not settle any bills or sign any documents until you are sure of the extent of current and future medical expenses related to the accident, and have agreed on it with your attorney.

(From an article by Steve Dolan)

Do you need to use fuel system additives?

If you only drive long distances and do no stop-and-go driving there is very little need to use fuel system additives to keep carbon buildup from forming on the intake valves, as long as your using a Top Tier gasoline. This will give you the minimum additives required by the auto manufacturers. Is this so?

Yes, however for most drivers, additional additives are needed to keep carbon buildup from forming on the intake valves. Lack of gasoline detergent additives in modern gasoline coupled with high concentrations of alcohol causes carbon buildup on the intake valves. The carbon builds up on the back face of the valves, causing different symptoms.

The carbon acts as a sponge and absorbs the incoming air/fuel mixture causing a lean condition which results in hesitation when accelerating. In extreme cases can cause a lean “pop-back” condition which manifests as a misfire/backfire into the intake manifold. Carbon which sticks to the intake valve stem or on the valve guide will make the valve stick open. When the engine is turned off and engine cools down, the carbon turns hard and causes a valve to become stuck in the open position. The next time the engine is started it will have a dead cylinder because of the valve remaining open. This results in a no-start condition or dead cylinder. Proper chemical decarbonizing treatment can remove this carbon from the engine.

Synthetic Oil: Scam or Real Deal?

Look on the shelf of your local auto parts house and you'll see more oils than breakfast cereal choices at the supermarket. It wasn't so long ago that you had about a half dozen to pick from, and since they were all made from the same gunk, it didn't matter much anyway. Then in the early 1970s popped up a new batch of lubricants -- synthetic oils. Made popular by brands like Amsoil and Mobil 1, die-hard gear heads, racers and enthusiasts started using synthetic oil exclusively. Unfortunately, it wasn't until almost two decades later that the major oil companies started offering synthetics to the masses. Despite the number of benefits over mined oil (the stuff they pump out of the ground), Americans still haven't fully embraced this advanced technology.

So what's the difference? Synthetic oil is produced in a lab, which means the only stuff in it is what they put in it. Despite the high-tech refining of crude oil, there are still contaminants in the oil that can build up and eventually damage an engine. Changing your oil and filter removes any loose particles that form, but often the build-up occurs in an isolated area of your engine, usually where it gets really, really hot. This build up can clog oil passages and valves, which can eventually lead to reduced engine life.

There are also ecological benefits to using synthetic oil. Its viscosity (ability to lubricate) stays higher than mined oil at high temperatures, enough to even affect your gas mileage. Since it breaks down much more slowly than petroleum-based oil, you can greatly extend the time between oil changes. One truck driver drove his semi 409,000 miles on synthetic without changing the oil! Think of how much less oil would have to be collected and recycled if we used half as much every year.

The bottom line is synthetic motor oils are an easy choice. The extra couple of bucks you spend for an oil change will be returned in no time at all. Better is better, whether its engine life, gas mileage or environmental impact.

(From an article by Matthew Wright)

Automatic Transmission fluid changes

I have heard that dropping the drain pan and doing a complete filter change will remove most of the old transmission fluid in an automatic transmission. Is this so?

No, the drain and filter change leaves more then half of the automatic transmission fluid behind in the transmission and mostly in the torque converter. A flushing machine is the only way to remove all of the fluid in your transmission

Information About Radar Detectors

Radar detector models nowadays are the result of combining trouble-free ergonomic designs with state-of-the-art technology. They provide motorists with inexpensive, much needed protection from troublesome speeding tickets and hazards on the road.

How are radar detectors able to this?

From the name itself, radar detectors detect beams that usually come from police radar, which measures the speed by which vehicles are traveling on the road. A radar detector will provide a warning signal even before the police radar can measure the vehicle's speed, buying the motorist some time to adjust his driving speed and be saved from a speeding ticket.

What should you look out for a radar detector?

The Type. A radar detector has three types, namely remote-mount, corded, and cordless.

A remote-mount detector is mounted permanently to your car, ensuring an installation that is clean and almost undetectable by thieves.

A corded detector is usually mounted on the car's windshield using suction cups and is considered to provide the best kind of protection.

A cordless detector, on the other hand, is easily transported between cars, and gives an installation that is cleaner than its corded counterparts.

City Mode. City mode is a very important feature because it lessens the sensitivity of your radar detector, especially in the city, such that you get a lesser number of false alerts.

Laser Detection. A radar detector with a laser sensor detects beams in front of the car, but not on your sides or behind. Three hundred sixty degrees of laser detection, on the other hand, assures you of more protection since there are a couple of sensors to watch out for pulses on your sides, as well as the rear. It is more reliable, but of course, more costly.

Spectre and VG-2 Protection. These shielding features are important since they inform the motorist if the police have a Radar Detector Detector (RDD). Spectre is considered as a more sophisticated RDD technology and is being used by several Canadian states. Some detector models provide Stealth, a kind of protection that warns the driver and turns off the radar detector. Pricier models provide Invisible, a kind of protection that shields the radar detectors from Spectre, VG-2, or both, such that they will continue working without being traced.

Digital Voice Alert. More modern versions are equipped with digital voice alerts that will inform the driver of any laser, beam, or pulse that they were able to pick up. No need for the hurried motorist to take his eyes off the road and examine the display of your radar detector.

Instant-On Protection. The truth is you can no longer defend yourself if Instant-On radar has already been aimed at your vehicle. Your speed will already have been measured by the time you are alerted by your radar detector. However, if another vehicle was the target of radar, a radar detector with Instant-On Protection will be more K-band receptive and sensitive, such that you will be alerted right on time to slow down. It is this K-band receptivity that allows manufacturer promotion of Instant-On Protection from radars.

There you go - everything you need to know about the benefits of using radar detectors, how they work, as well as the features that you should look out for in them. Go ahead. Make yourself and your vehicle safe.

(From an article by By Mario Chompass )

Changing to a different motor oil

I have heard that if you have used the same motor oil for the life of the car, then the best recommendation is to continue to use the same oil. Is this so?

Not so, switching over from petroleum oil to synthetic oil is one of the simplest and easiest ways to increase fuel mileage, power and engine longevity. The only time it isn’t recommended is when your engine has been neglected and you have a major buildup of sludge inside the engine. Since the synthetic is a highly detergent oil a bunch of sludge might come off and plug up the oil pump intake screen and cause catastrophic engine failure. Otherwise you can change over to synthetic slowly. Put in a quart, run it till your oil change interval comes around. Next time put in 2 quarts run it and at the next oil change then change to 100% synthetic oil.

Hybrid Things to Know

Hybrid vehicles of all types are becoming fairly commonplace sights -- but there's still a lot of mystery (and misinformation) about what hybrids can and can't -- or shouldn't -- be asked to do.

Q: If I run out gas, can't I just drive to the next gas station on the batteries?

A: Absolutely not. Doing so risks completely discharging the hybrid battery pack, which could mean you end up having to pay for a complete replacement (at a cost of potentially several thousand dollars in a worst case scenario). Never drive a hybrid with an empty gas tank.

Q: What's the "Regenerative Braking"?

A: Hybrids recharge their battery packs in two ways. Electricity is generated by the operation of the internal combustion engine -- and by recycling the kinetic energy of forward motion that would otherwise be lost as heat through braking. This is known as regenerative braking.

Q: Why would anyone buy a hybrid SUV or luxury-performance vehicle? Isn't the point of the exercise saving fuel?

A: Yes, exactly. While hybrid SUVs, pick-ups and luxury-performance cars may not be as fuel-efficient as a compact economy car, they have the potential to be far more fuel efficient than they might otherwise be. Not everyone can get by with a compact economy sedan. Some buyers need the extra room/capability of a larger vehicle -- or simply want more luxury or better performance -- just not the sky-high gas bills that often come with that. Hybrid drivetrains in SUVs, pick-ups and luxury-performance cars let these buyers have their cake and eat it, too.

Q: What is a "mild" hybrid?

A: There are two types of hybrids currently on the market. So-called "mild" hybrids are hybrids that operate primarily on their internal combustion engines. The vehicles operate in pure electric mode only when the vehicles are stopped in traffic. Sometimes, the electric motor acts as a "pusher" when vehicle is being accelerated -- but the vehicle never drives on battery/electric power alone. "Full" hybrids, on the other hand, can be driven at speeds up to about 30 mph on battery power alone -- with the gas engine coming online only when higher speeds (or loads, as when accelerating rapidly) signal the onboard electronics that additional power is required. Mild hybrids typically offer a 5-10 percent potential fuel efficiency increase over an otherwise similar non-hybrid vehicle. Full hybrids can achieve much higher fuel efficiency -- 20-40 percent better than an otherwise equivalent non-hybrid vehicle.

Q: Do hybrids have different warranties than regular cars?

A: Yes. Most new hybrids have special warranties that cover hybrid-specific components, including the battery pack and electric motor(s). This "separate" warranty is usually longer than the warranty on the non-hybrid components of the car. Typically, hybrid components are covered for at least eight years and 100,000 miles.

Q: Are hybrids cost-effective?

A: It depends. The typical hybrid costs about two to three thousand dollars more than an otherwise equivalent non-hybrid version of the same vehicle. If you drive a great deal (especially in stop-and-go city-type driving, where a hybrid is at its most efficient) or gas prices go up considerably over the time you own the vehicle, then you may quickly make up the higher up-front costs in over-the-road savings. On the other hand, if your driving is mostly at higher speeds, on highways (where a hybrid is least efficient), don't put that many miles on your vehicle -- and gas prices don't go up from where they are at the time of this writing (about $2.25 per gallon for regular unleaded) then you may never break even on your hybrid vehicle purchase. It's important to do the math for your specific situation, type of driving -- and so on -- before you come to any decision.

From An Article By Eric Peters

Rental cars- Are they good buys?

Are former rental cars good buys because rental fleets are well maintained and serviced according to strict "severe service" intervals?

NO! In order to hold down costs the rental car companies maintain their fleets following the least amount of maintenance, not severe service, in order to still maintain the manufacturer’s warranty. Most of these cars are used for short trips to and from the motel, airport, and can wind up with severe engine oil sludging. In addition many rental cars will always consume oil because they were never properly broken in during the first 500 miles of operation.

I had a great day

Just a quick note about something that happened to me that most of us old-timers could appreciate. It seems that some young boys in the area have been working on a 1968 Dodge Coronet that their grandfather had in the barn. They were cleaning it up and doing minor body repairs to it. They are taking body shop at the Votech School and this is their project. They were having problems starting and keeping it running. One of my neighbors told their dad and he told them that I use to work on those old beauties, so they contacted me.
I checked it out and to make a long story short, the car needed a major tune up, which consisted of points, condenser, plugs, plug wires, fuel and air filter. I never got rid of most of the stock I had when I was in business so I had most of the parts I needed, yes I even had a set of points and condenser. I dusted off the old tach and dwell meter and set up the ignition. The boys set the gaps on the plugs and put them in, I of course supervised. Fired up that old 318 and set the timing and adjusted the carb and it sounded pretty good. Were going to have to rebuild the carb as the accelerator pump and gaskets need replacing but for an engine that is almost forty years old, it sure sounded good to me.
If you could have seen the look on those boys faces when that car started and ran. It was worth more than words can say to this old boy.

Replacement bulbs for Xenon-headlight equipped cars

I have heard that Replacement bulbs for Xenon-headlight equipped cars might not match colors, making the headlights appear as if they are shining in two different colors. In order to get the same matching color characteristics, should I always replace both Xenon bulbs at the same time, in pairs?

No! At $180 a bulb, that can be a big mistake. All that's needed is to allow the new bulb operate for a week or so as they take some time to break in and develop their characteristic factory "blue" color.