Some Summer Car Care Tips

It seems safe to say winter is over, spring has sprung and just around the bend it will be summer time

again. With the summer weather comes the hot temperatures. Is your car ready for the summer?

Have you had the engine cooling system checked? No, I don't mean the air conditioner when I say

"Cooling System" I mean the system that prevents the engine from running too hot. The antifreeze, fan

belt or belts, water pump, thermostat and radiator. I've worked on many vehicles that had overheated

because the cooling system was not checked and a simple thing like the fan belt that drives the water

pump broke causing the engine to overheat. A small investment that would have prevented a very

expensive repair to the engine had the cooling system been checked for summer use. If your vehicle is

five years old or more you should have the cooling system drained, flushed and new antifreeze installed.

The radiator, water pump and fan belts should also be carefully inspected. I would recommend a qualified

auto technician perform this service.

How about the windshield wiper blades? They usually get pretty beat up over the winter months due to the

snow and ice. Now is a good time to replace them. There are some auto parts stores that will even replace

the blades for you at no extra charge.

OK, now lets get to the tires, you know, those four round things that keep your car from touching the

ground. It seems most owners neglect ever checking the condition of the tire wear much less the

pressure in the tires. Good tire condition and proper inflation will give you safer handling and better fuel

economy and with the cost of fuel, that is a real plus.

Well we now have the engine running cool, we can see out the windshield when it rains and our vehicle

rides and handles great so off we go only to find that it is hot as you know what inside of our vehicle.

WHAT happened to the air conditioner.
Most of the vehicles today will retain their refrigerant charge for a good number of years but should be

checked for proper performance by a qualified technician in the AC field. Yea, I know what your going to

say. If my system doesn't get cold like it did when I first bought it, I can go to a Wal-Mart or other parts

store and buy one of those recharge kits and do it myself. Now, I'm not saying you can't, what I'm saying is

that a low refrigerant charge may not be the problem and that by adding additional refrigerant to the

system you may be creating a dangerous condition of excessive high pressure which could cause a

refrigerant hose to rupture which may cover you with refrigerant and cause injury to your body especially

your face or eyes, or a compressor to seize up and damage drive belts or other parts of your vehicle. I

strongly recommend you have the system serviced by a qualified AC technician.

Recharging your automobiles A/C, yourself

It's going to be summer soon, and in many parts of the world, things are going to be heating up. Make sure your A/C is running at its best. If the AC isn't quite as cool as it used to be, the solution might be as simple as recharging the system. The air coming out of the vents should probably be between 40*F and 50*F unless it's very hot outside. If the air coming out is much warmer than this, your A/C is probably not functioning properly.

Cautions: The A/C system is under high pressure. Also, while R134a isn't as bad for the environment as the older R12, there is still a heavy fine for venting R134a into the atmosphere. You should never take apart your A/C system without proper training and refrigerant recovery equipment. Wear protective glasses at all times while servicing your A/C. Also, you will be working under or near the car while it is running. Please observe all safety precautions and refer to our disclaimer for carfix_online at the bottom of every email!

With the car running and A/C on Max, pop the hood and listen for or watch the A/C compressor pulley. It has a clutch, so the center of the pulley may spin intermittently. It should start and spin for 30 seconds or longer. If after 90 seconds it never spins, make sure your A/C is turned on. If it spins for just a few seconds, stops, then starts again after a few seconds, it is short cycling. Either of these could be caused by low refrigerant levels. There may be a leak or something more serious at fault.

Interdynamics makes it very conventient for a DYI’er (do-it-yourself) to recharge a R134a system. There quick charge charging gun QCK-2CS,(a video of it can be seen later in this article) and you simply connect the hose to the low-pressure port, screw a can of refrigerant into the Quick Charge, squeeze the trigger to dispense and release to stop. Quick Charge will automatically give you a pressure reading on the built-in gauge. Quick Charge is completely re-usable.

Locate the Low-pressure A/C recharge port of your system. The low-pressure port usually has a blue or black dust cap and is located on the larger diameter metal tubing that runs between the evaporator (in the dashboard) and the compressor. If you can’t find it or your not sure stop here and seek professional help!

With the car off, a rule of thumb is that the pressure should read about the same as the ambient temperature in Fahrenheit. If it's 80 degrees outside, the pressure at this service port should be somewhere around 80 PSI.

Start the car and run the A/C on high with recirculation as shown below. This will make sure that the A/C pump is running as hard as possible. If the A/C compressor isn't running (you can usually hear it), the pressure may read high. If the A/C compressor never starts, or if it's short-cycling, the readings could be off. If the system needs recharging, start adding refrigerant to the system per the instructions that came with the recharge kit. For the Interdynamics charging gun, you simply read the pressure, then momentarily hold the trigger down to add refrigerant. Release the trigger, and check the pressure again.

A few other things to note. There is a high-pressure service port under the hood (covered with a plastic cap, near the radiator). A high pressure gauge hooked up to this port, combined with the low pressure gauge in the recharge kit, can point out a failure with the expansion valve or the compressor. These high-pressure gauges use a different size of connector, and are not usually sold with the "do-it-yourself" style A/C recharge.Note: You can't repair an AC system properly with just a low side gauge. It requires a low side and high side reading to know what is actually going on!

The video below is taken from the “The Two guys” TV show.

It shows the Quick Charge
charging gun and how it is used.

http://www.id-usa.com/video/interdynamics-shortvideo(WindowsMedia-DSL).wmv

What to Do and Not Do in the Event of an Accident

What to Do and Not Do in the Event of an Accident

What You Need to Know After an Auto Accident

The worst thing has just happened to you. You have had an accident. There's never a good time to have an accident but it always seems to happen at the worst possible time. So what do you do? First off you need to stay calm. It's a totally natural reaction to lose your head or panic right when you need to be rational. Just after the accident is the time you should be taking note of all the information you will need to ensure that you are fully compensated and covered for any damage done to your property or to you. Talk to witnesses, get their contact details, make notes and take pictures if possible at the time of the accident. You'll be glad you did as it will be difficult to accurately recall all of the details as time passes. Finally remember not to admit that you caused the accident, even if you did.

Right after the accident this will all be the last thing you think of, so make a checklist and keep it in the car.
While you are at the Accident Scene, note the following details
You will need:
Driver Details of everyone involved in the accident. Don't forgrt to add yours too. These details should cover the Drivers Name, driving license details, and driver insurance details including the insurance company name, policy number, and contact details. Finally remember to get the car license plate number. If you are carrying a camera take pictures of the accident scene, the damaged vehicles, and any injuries that were caused by the accident. Note the contact details of any witnesses such as name, address, phone number and email address so that you can follow up with them later.

Post-Accident Follow Up
Complete your own fully detailed description of the accident as soon as possible after it occurred. You can fill this in with the details and any pictures that you took at the scene of the accident. If you were injured then take pictures of your injuries. Follow up with the witnesses to the accident and get their written details of the accident. If the Police attended the scene of the accident ask for their report.

After the Accident
If you were injured you will need to keep track of the following medical expenses and visits:
Any hospital visits and treatments at hospitals such as MRI, x-ray, physiotherapy and laboratory services. Over the counter and prescription medications.
You should keep track of the dates, times and reasons you had to visit a doctor or the hospital, and keep a note of the time off of work due to the accident. If the time off caused a loss of income, you should get a letter detailing all of the lost income from your employer. Similarly if you are still in school you should keep track of all of the hours of missed schooling due to the accident.
While you are undertaking medical treatment you should take pictures of your injuries to show their progress over time. Keep a log of the date and time of the picture and add details of any pain that you are experiencing, how you are feeling, and any distress or discomfort that you experience as a result of the accident.
Keep track of all other expenses related to the accident. These will include some of the following: Property damages such as car repairs, damage to barriers, fences and signs.
Some other indirect expenses may also occur such as a cancelled vacation due to injuries sustained in the accident or the cost of a rental car while yours is repaired. Finally there are other miscellaneous costs, such as ointments,lotions to treat your injuries, and bandages.

Finally
Never reply to any questions or queries from any other party involved in or related to the accident, such as insurance companies or attorneys without first consulting your attorney. Do not settle any bills or sign any documents until you are sure of the extent of current and future medical expenses related to the accident, and have agreed on it with your attorney.

(From an article by Steve Dolan)

Do you need to use fuel system additives?

If you only drive long distances and do no stop-and-go driving there is very little need to use fuel system additives to keep carbon buildup from forming on the intake valves, as long as your using a Top Tier gasoline. This will give you the minimum additives required by the auto manufacturers. Is this so?

Yes, however for most drivers, additional additives are needed to keep carbon buildup from forming on the intake valves. Lack of gasoline detergent additives in modern gasoline coupled with high concentrations of alcohol causes carbon buildup on the intake valves. The carbon builds up on the back face of the valves, causing different symptoms.

The carbon acts as a sponge and absorbs the incoming air/fuel mixture causing a lean condition which results in hesitation when accelerating. In extreme cases can cause a lean “pop-back” condition which manifests as a misfire/backfire into the intake manifold. Carbon which sticks to the intake valve stem or on the valve guide will make the valve stick open. When the engine is turned off and engine cools down, the carbon turns hard and causes a valve to become stuck in the open position. The next time the engine is started it will have a dead cylinder because of the valve remaining open. This results in a no-start condition or dead cylinder. Proper chemical decarbonizing treatment can remove this carbon from the engine.

Synthetic Oil: Scam or Real Deal?

Look on the shelf of your local auto parts house and you'll see more oils than breakfast cereal choices at the supermarket. It wasn't so long ago that you had about a half dozen to pick from, and since they were all made from the same gunk, it didn't matter much anyway. Then in the early 1970s popped up a new batch of lubricants -- synthetic oils. Made popular by brands like Amsoil and Mobil 1, die-hard gear heads, racers and enthusiasts started using synthetic oil exclusively. Unfortunately, it wasn't until almost two decades later that the major oil companies started offering synthetics to the masses. Despite the number of benefits over mined oil (the stuff they pump out of the ground), Americans still haven't fully embraced this advanced technology.

So what's the difference? Synthetic oil is produced in a lab, which means the only stuff in it is what they put in it. Despite the high-tech refining of crude oil, there are still contaminants in the oil that can build up and eventually damage an engine. Changing your oil and filter removes any loose particles that form, but often the build-up occurs in an isolated area of your engine, usually where it gets really, really hot. This build up can clog oil passages and valves, which can eventually lead to reduced engine life.

There are also ecological benefits to using synthetic oil. Its viscosity (ability to lubricate) stays higher than mined oil at high temperatures, enough to even affect your gas mileage. Since it breaks down much more slowly than petroleum-based oil, you can greatly extend the time between oil changes. One truck driver drove his semi 409,000 miles on synthetic without changing the oil! Think of how much less oil would have to be collected and recycled if we used half as much every year.

The bottom line is synthetic motor oils are an easy choice. The extra couple of bucks you spend for an oil change will be returned in no time at all. Better is better, whether its engine life, gas mileage or environmental impact.

(From an article by Matthew Wright)

Automatic Transmission fluid changes

I have heard that dropping the drain pan and doing a complete filter change will remove most of the old transmission fluid in an automatic transmission. Is this so?

No, the drain and filter change leaves more then half of the automatic transmission fluid behind in the transmission and mostly in the torque converter. A flushing machine is the only way to remove all of the fluid in your transmission

Information About Radar Detectors

Radar detector models nowadays are the result of combining trouble-free ergonomic designs with state-of-the-art technology. They provide motorists with inexpensive, much needed protection from troublesome speeding tickets and hazards on the road.

How are radar detectors able to this?

From the name itself, radar detectors detect beams that usually come from police radar, which measures the speed by which vehicles are traveling on the road. A radar detector will provide a warning signal even before the police radar can measure the vehicle's speed, buying the motorist some time to adjust his driving speed and be saved from a speeding ticket.

What should you look out for a radar detector?

The Type. A radar detector has three types, namely remote-mount, corded, and cordless.

A remote-mount detector is mounted permanently to your car, ensuring an installation that is clean and almost undetectable by thieves.

A corded detector is usually mounted on the car's windshield using suction cups and is considered to provide the best kind of protection.

A cordless detector, on the other hand, is easily transported between cars, and gives an installation that is cleaner than its corded counterparts.

City Mode. City mode is a very important feature because it lessens the sensitivity of your radar detector, especially in the city, such that you get a lesser number of false alerts.

Laser Detection. A radar detector with a laser sensor detects beams in front of the car, but not on your sides or behind. Three hundred sixty degrees of laser detection, on the other hand, assures you of more protection since there are a couple of sensors to watch out for pulses on your sides, as well as the rear. It is more reliable, but of course, more costly.

Spectre and VG-2 Protection. These shielding features are important since they inform the motorist if the police have a Radar Detector Detector (RDD). Spectre is considered as a more sophisticated RDD technology and is being used by several Canadian states. Some detector models provide Stealth, a kind of protection that warns the driver and turns off the radar detector. Pricier models provide Invisible, a kind of protection that shields the radar detectors from Spectre, VG-2, or both, such that they will continue working without being traced.

Digital Voice Alert. More modern versions are equipped with digital voice alerts that will inform the driver of any laser, beam, or pulse that they were able to pick up. No need for the hurried motorist to take his eyes off the road and examine the display of your radar detector.

Instant-On Protection. The truth is you can no longer defend yourself if Instant-On radar has already been aimed at your vehicle. Your speed will already have been measured by the time you are alerted by your radar detector. However, if another vehicle was the target of radar, a radar detector with Instant-On Protection will be more K-band receptive and sensitive, such that you will be alerted right on time to slow down. It is this K-band receptivity that allows manufacturer promotion of Instant-On Protection from radars.

There you go - everything you need to know about the benefits of using radar detectors, how they work, as well as the features that you should look out for in them. Go ahead. Make yourself and your vehicle safe.

(From an article by By Mario Chompass )

Changing to a different motor oil

I have heard that if you have used the same motor oil for the life of the car, then the best recommendation is to continue to use the same oil. Is this so?

Not so, switching over from petroleum oil to synthetic oil is one of the simplest and easiest ways to increase fuel mileage, power and engine longevity. The only time it isn’t recommended is when your engine has been neglected and you have a major buildup of sludge inside the engine. Since the synthetic is a highly detergent oil a bunch of sludge might come off and plug up the oil pump intake screen and cause catastrophic engine failure. Otherwise you can change over to synthetic slowly. Put in a quart, run it till your oil change interval comes around. Next time put in 2 quarts run it and at the next oil change then change to 100% synthetic oil.

Hybrid Things to Know

Hybrid vehicles of all types are becoming fairly commonplace sights -- but there's still a lot of mystery (and misinformation) about what hybrids can and can't -- or shouldn't -- be asked to do.

Q: If I run out gas, can't I just drive to the next gas station on the batteries?

A: Absolutely not. Doing so risks completely discharging the hybrid battery pack, which could mean you end up having to pay for a complete replacement (at a cost of potentially several thousand dollars in a worst case scenario). Never drive a hybrid with an empty gas tank.

Q: What's the "Regenerative Braking"?

A: Hybrids recharge their battery packs in two ways. Electricity is generated by the operation of the internal combustion engine -- and by recycling the kinetic energy of forward motion that would otherwise be lost as heat through braking. This is known as regenerative braking.

Q: Why would anyone buy a hybrid SUV or luxury-performance vehicle? Isn't the point of the exercise saving fuel?

A: Yes, exactly. While hybrid SUVs, pick-ups and luxury-performance cars may not be as fuel-efficient as a compact economy car, they have the potential to be far more fuel efficient than they might otherwise be. Not everyone can get by with a compact economy sedan. Some buyers need the extra room/capability of a larger vehicle -- or simply want more luxury or better performance -- just not the sky-high gas bills that often come with that. Hybrid drivetrains in SUVs, pick-ups and luxury-performance cars let these buyers have their cake and eat it, too.

Q: What is a "mild" hybrid?

A: There are two types of hybrids currently on the market. So-called "mild" hybrids are hybrids that operate primarily on their internal combustion engines. The vehicles operate in pure electric mode only when the vehicles are stopped in traffic. Sometimes, the electric motor acts as a "pusher" when vehicle is being accelerated -- but the vehicle never drives on battery/electric power alone. "Full" hybrids, on the other hand, can be driven at speeds up to about 30 mph on battery power alone -- with the gas engine coming online only when higher speeds (or loads, as when accelerating rapidly) signal the onboard electronics that additional power is required. Mild hybrids typically offer a 5-10 percent potential fuel efficiency increase over an otherwise similar non-hybrid vehicle. Full hybrids can achieve much higher fuel efficiency -- 20-40 percent better than an otherwise equivalent non-hybrid vehicle.

Q: Do hybrids have different warranties than regular cars?

A: Yes. Most new hybrids have special warranties that cover hybrid-specific components, including the battery pack and electric motor(s). This "separate" warranty is usually longer than the warranty on the non-hybrid components of the car. Typically, hybrid components are covered for at least eight years and 100,000 miles.

Q: Are hybrids cost-effective?

A: It depends. The typical hybrid costs about two to three thousand dollars more than an otherwise equivalent non-hybrid version of the same vehicle. If you drive a great deal (especially in stop-and-go city-type driving, where a hybrid is at its most efficient) or gas prices go up considerably over the time you own the vehicle, then you may quickly make up the higher up-front costs in over-the-road savings. On the other hand, if your driving is mostly at higher speeds, on highways (where a hybrid is least efficient), don't put that many miles on your vehicle -- and gas prices don't go up from where they are at the time of this writing (about $2.25 per gallon for regular unleaded) then you may never break even on your hybrid vehicle purchase. It's important to do the math for your specific situation, type of driving -- and so on -- before you come to any decision.

From An Article By Eric Peters

Rental cars- Are they good buys?

Are former rental cars good buys because rental fleets are well maintained and serviced according to strict "severe service" intervals?

NO! In order to hold down costs the rental car companies maintain their fleets following the least amount of maintenance, not severe service, in order to still maintain the manufacturer’s warranty. Most of these cars are used for short trips to and from the motel, airport, and can wind up with severe engine oil sludging. In addition many rental cars will always consume oil because they were never properly broken in during the first 500 miles of operation.

I had a great day

Just a quick note about something that happened to me that most of us old-timers could appreciate. It seems that some young boys in the area have been working on a 1968 Dodge Coronet that their grandfather had in the barn. They were cleaning it up and doing minor body repairs to it. They are taking body shop at the Votech School and this is their project. They were having problems starting and keeping it running. One of my neighbors told their dad and he told them that I use to work on those old beauties, so they contacted me.
I checked it out and to make a long story short, the car needed a major tune up, which consisted of points, condenser, plugs, plug wires, fuel and air filter. I never got rid of most of the stock I had when I was in business so I had most of the parts I needed, yes I even had a set of points and condenser. I dusted off the old tach and dwell meter and set up the ignition. The boys set the gaps on the plugs and put them in, I of course supervised. Fired up that old 318 and set the timing and adjusted the carb and it sounded pretty good. Were going to have to rebuild the carb as the accelerator pump and gaskets need replacing but for an engine that is almost forty years old, it sure sounded good to me.
If you could have seen the look on those boys faces when that car started and ran. It was worth more than words can say to this old boy.

Replacement bulbs for Xenon-headlight equipped cars

I have heard that Replacement bulbs for Xenon-headlight equipped cars might not match colors, making the headlights appear as if they are shining in two different colors. In order to get the same matching color characteristics, should I always replace both Xenon bulbs at the same time, in pairs?

No! At $180 a bulb, that can be a big mistake. All that's needed is to allow the new bulb operate for a week or so as they take some time to break in and develop their characteristic factory "blue" color.

Eight Biggest Do-It-Yourself Mistakes

Do-it-yourself repair work can save you time and money -- in addition to giving you a lot of satisfaction. But you have to be careful to avoid beginner's mistakes, which can end up costing you more in time and money than you would have spent farming the work out to a professional mechanic -- and sour you on the idea of ever getting under the hood yourself again.

These include:

* Randomly pulling parts before you know what's wrong -- This is a common beginner's mistake that quickly leads to frustration and an empty wallet. Doctors don't begin treatment before evaluating the patient and making a diagnosis. It should be no different with any automotive "operation." Find out what's wrong first -- then fix it.

* Attempting a repair without having a shop manual to refer to -- Easily the number two pratfall on any list of beginner DIY mistakes. Never disassemble components without knowing how they fit back together, etc. A shop manual will typically have schematics, photos, diagrams and so on -- as well as a step-by-step procedure for each repair. "Winging it" without the manual is about as bright as trying to prepare an elaborate gourmet dinner you've never made before -- without the cookbook.

* Not using the proper tools -- This is commonplace because few beginners have a full set of mechanic's tools; in particular, the often specialized equipment needed to properly perform certain diagnostic and repair procedures. Using the wrong tool can lead to physical damage of the part being worked on -- in addition to skinned knuckles and a lot of cursing. If specialized tools are required, be sure you have access to them -- and know how to use them properly.

* Not having the right place to work -- It's important to have a safe, secure area to work on your vehicle. The shopping mall parking lot isn't it. A covered space with good lighting is ideal. And if you need to raise the vehicle, make sure it is parked on a level (and solid) surface, not grass. Beginners get killed or badly injured every year when an improperly supported car either rolls on top of them or slips off the jack stands and crushes them.

* Rushing it -- Deciding to tear your car apart late Sunday afternoon but needing to have it ready to make the commute Monday morning is a recipe for disaster. And a common beginner DIY mistake. Always allot sufficient time to finish the job; don't try to emulate a NASCAR pit crew. Those guys have it down to a science and have many years of experience. You don't. Expect delays as a result of things you didn't anticipate -- such as needing to get a part in the middle of the job, or spending an hour on getting at a bolt you thought you'd be able to remove in a minute or two.

* Getting mad -- This mistake often springs from the loins of the other mistakes already listed. You've got the car's guts all over the driveway and have no idea how to get them back together. Or you lost something. Or something's not fitting right. Whatever. This kind of thing happens to professional mechanics, too. The difference between them and a ranting do-it-yourselfer is the pro knows when to step away for a minute, have a cup of coffee, a smoke -- whatever -- and relax about it.

* Rigging it -- It can be tempting to "home engineer" a fix that isn't quite what the manual called for, but seems like it ought to work. This is ok in an emergency -- as when you're dealing with a broken down car in the middle of nowhere and just need to get it to run long enough to get you somewhere -- but don't do it otherwise. It can be tempting, sure -- but more often than not, the "fix" ends up causing more problems than it solved. Do it the right way, "by the book."

* Refusing to ask for help -- Pride definitely goes before the fall, in politics and car repair alike. Even the best of us don't know everything; the smart among us know it's no sign of weakness to ask someone who does. Just the opposite. If you can't figure out what the manual says, or are having trouble getting something to work, there is no shame in seeking the counsel of others, be they more experienced friends, online resources -- even a professional mechanic at a car dealership, etc. (They're often quite willing to help out; it just takes your having the guts to go up and ask them.)


(From an article by Eric Peters )

Do Synthetic oils have a molecular structure that can cause leaks?

It is widely known that all Synthetic oils have a molecular structure that is much smaller than conventional oils and therefore synthetic oils must use seal swelling additives in order to stop the oil from leaking out. Is this so?

NO! Synthetic oils are unique that there structure is more uniform then petroleum oils not smaller. In Petroleum oils the molecules are larger and not as even in size as synthetic oils. Just because synthetic oils have more uniform molecules in size, has nothing to do with seal failure or oil leaks. For example, the Olefins in Mobil 1 tend to cause seal shrinkage and seal swelling additives are used to counteract this tendency of like group IV synthetics. However ester based lubricants group V’s (example: Neo)tend to cause seals to expand, and the need for seal swelling agents is totally unnecessary.

Alternative Ticket Fighting Strategies

You've probably read articles about fighting traffic tickets -- but the reality is many of us (probably most of us) just don't have the money to hire a lawyer -- or the time/expertise (let alone gumption) to actually challenge a ticket on our own.

There are some alternatives, however.

* Plead "guilty -- with explanation":

Sometimes, you can get a reduced charged by pleading guilty -- but with an explanation. Provided you have an otherwise clean record --and the charge itself is relatively minor -- often, this can yield good results.

Remember -- what they want most is money. The charge itself is of secondary importance.

A great deal depends on the judge, however. Some are hard cases; others more reasonable. Before you decide to go this route, it's smart to get to court early and watch how your judge handles other cases -- especially those similar to your own. If you think, based on his actions, that he's going to throw the book at you -- you can always request a continuance; in many states, these are granted automatically upon request. Simply tell the judge you are not ready to go to trial. A continuance will push your court date off for another few weeks or so and give you time to prepare a defense -- or hire a lawyer.

* Bargain

Traffic court's a lot like buying a new car -- because there's lots of haggling involved. You can ask the judge (or the prosecuting/commonwealth's attorney) about the possibility of agreeing to attend driving school and/or pay a fine in return for dropping the charge against you -- or changing the charge to a non-moving violation, which avoids DMV "points" being assigned to your driving record. That means your insurance company won't have a pretext for a rate hike. In some counties/states, certain charges aren't reported to the DMV at all -- especially if it's an out-of-state ticket. (Mostly, these include non-moving violations such as "defective equipment" -- a common "lesser charge" that's often assigned in lieu of the original moving violation.)

The key thing, however, is to avoid the moving violation conviction -- even if it means paying a larger fine than you'd otherwise have paid for just the ticket/offense you were originally charged with. A one-time hit to your wallet is infinitely preferable to having that ticket held against you for anywhere from three to five years -- the length of time it will be on your DMV record -- and used by your insurance company to justify higher premiums. The total cost of a single moving violation on your DMV record can easily exceed the one-time hit of a fine for "defective equipment" (or whatever) many times over. And keep in mind: If you should be unlucky enough to receive another ticket before the old one "drops off" -- your jeopardy has just doubled. The points stack up -- and your insurance goes through the roof. How likely is it you can go for another five years without gettting nailed again? For many of us, that's a virtual impossibility!

(As an aside, it's possible in some states to take the DMV-authorized "driving school" online -- and avoid the hassle of spending an entire Saturday re-living high school detention. See http://www.trafficschoolonline.com for more information.)

Bottom line: Either of these alternatives -- pleading guilty with an explanation or bargaining your way to a lesser charge -- can be more cost-effective than hiring a lawyer or spending days/weeks of your own time doing what's necessary to fight the ticket yourself. Most of us have jobs and responsibilities that make that very difficult, if not impossible. And it can be very intimidating for a layman to go up against the system, subpoenaing records, questioning the ticketing officer in open court -- and so on. By challenging the system in this way, one also runs the very real risk of antagonizing the court -- and becoming the target of an angry judge looking to "teach someone a lesson." It's true you can always appeal a conviction (in many states, a traffic law case may even entitle you to a jury trial, if you want to take it that far). But that involves yet more time, yet more expense. How much of either can you afford to spend on a traffic ticket beef?

Yes, there's the principle involved. If it's a really unjust ticket, you may be motivated to go all the way -- and do whatever it takes to beat the rap. But sometimes, it's smart to pick your battles -- and go for the best outcome you can realistically hope for given time and other constraints.

Refueling Fires

Not to be argumentative but, I take exception to
the answer and the reasons given.

Safety is my foremost goal, I want to be sure that
everyone still shuts-down their car while refueling
for the utmost in safety.

While I do agree that static discharge is probably the
most common reason for refueling fires, I disagree with
a "mythbuster" type attitude that refueling fires don't
or can't happen because of a running engine.

Gasoline is NOTHING TO BE TAKEN LIGHTLY!

I've personally been in two gasoline fires in
my career and want you to understand that there
is NO WARNING of the ignition and fire and NO TIME
and NO WAY 'undue' the event!

Here is the question and rationale that goes with the answer for those
that may have missed it in the monthly quiz:

***QUOTE***
3)True or false:

A car could catch fire if you don't turn off the engine while refueling.

False: In the old days that was a problem because of the potential of the
engine back firing, with gas fumes present. Today, modern engines do not
backfire. Outside of static electricity problems modern cars could have
a problem with evaporative emissions systems sensing a problem and
turning on a check engine light, which in most cases would reset itself
in time once the gas cap is replaced.
***END-QUOTE***

Now some real world FACTS to consider.

In my decades of servicing automobiles and trucks I have
personally witnessed:
*More than a dozen cars or light trucks that unexpectedly and
spontaneously suffered a wiring fire IN MY BAY.
*AT LEAST ONE CAR A MONTH that is backfiring (dismisses the above
assumption that modern cars don't backfire).
*Many dozens of cars or light trucks that unexpectedly and
spontaneously began leaking or spraying fuel IN MY BAY.

You guessed it, they were all running!


Some reference info...
www.pei.org
http://www.quiktrip.com/gasoline/gasoline_safety.asp

Both of the above sites are authoritative.
You'll find that both of them recommend to turn off the engine
while refueling.

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3988/is_200410/ai_n9470573

Here is a quote from the findarticles site:
* As of March 2004, 39 states had reported fires to the Petroleum
Equipment Institute (PEI). The number of fires that have occurred may
not be accurate as some fires are extinguished quickly and never
reported. However, fires continue to occur.

* Wearing rubber soled shoes does not protect the consumer during
refueling. It insulates the wearer, making it more difficult to
discharge static buildup to the ground.

* On the average, it takes only 1 to 3 minutes to refuel an automobile
(a full-size SUV, 3 to 5 minutes).

* Gasoline vapors are heaver than air. As gasoline is dispensed into
the vehicle fill pipe, the vapors fall to the ground. If a vehicle is
running, these vapors can migrate under the vehicle where the engine
fan can circulate the vapor/air mixture over the engine and other
ignition sources. Beyond the issue of static, a running car presents a
number of "ignition sources" for fuel vapor:

* The exhaust components of a modern car literally can glow red hot
during normal operation.

* The typical ignition system creates above 40,000 volts.

* Starting a vehicle during refueling can result in a flash fire if
the gasoline vapors are near the starter and alternator when it is
engaged.

* One gallon of gasoline is equivalent to 20 sticks of dynamite.

* Gasoline can produce vapors than can ignite at all temperatures,
even at -45°F
...*End of quote*...

Also, there are still vehicles that are equipped or sometimes
retrofitted with "spark arrestors" on the tailpipe.
That should tell us something...

Be safe,

Mike.

Is there a difference between brands of gasoline?

It doesn't matter what brand of gasoline you use in your vehicle today, because all gasoline is about the same? This is not true anymore with the advent of Top Tier Gasoline. Currently, many gasoline retailers provide fuels with lower-quality additive packages that can build up deposits on fuel injectors and on intake valves. Others can build up deposits in combustion chambers and may lead to intake valve sticking. These lower levels of additives can have negative impacts on engine performance and vehicle responsiveness.

Here is a list of Top Tier Gasolines. Make sure your buying your gas from one of them, to avoid the problems mentioned above!

QuikTrip
Chevron
Conoco
Phillips
76
Shell
Entec Stations
MFA Oil Company
Kwik Trip/Kwik Star
The Somerset Refinery, Inc.
Chevron-Canada
Aloha Petroleum
Tri-Par Oil Company
Shell-Canada
Texaco
Petro-Canada
Sunoco-Canada

To learn more visit http://www.toptiergas.com

What To Avoid When Buying Your Next Car

Buying a car can be quite a process. Not only do you have to find a car you like and haggle for the best price, you have to worry about how you will pay for it. So many people have such high car payments that they struggle to pay their bills. They fall back on credit cards. They think that the cards are the problem, when in fact the car payment is at the foundation of their troubles.

When you are looking to buy a car, you need to know how much you can really afford to spend. You should spend no more than 15% of your after-tax monthly income on your car payments. Your car payments shouldn't exceed this amount.

If your family must have more than one vehicle, focus on having one good family vehicle that has a loan on it and one that is paid off. Two car payments at once are really pushing it for most people. For example, if you make around $40,000 before-taxes each year, you shouldn't be spending any more than $400 a month on your car payments. That doesn't get you to far.

Keep in mind that there is more to a car than the monthly payment for the loan. You will also have insurance to pay for. This can vary depending on the make, model and your area. Some vehicles also have higher repair and maintenance costs. Consider these costs when choosing the type of vehicle you are looking to purchase. And don't forget gasoline expenses!

If money is an issue for your family, a used car is really the best deal out there. New cars depreciate so quickly within the first two years. A used car really is a better deal. If you really want a new vehicle or are concerned about warranties, look for a vehicle that really holds its value well.

You need to know how to handle yourself when it comes to financing. You should always be prepared. Go home and work out the figures before you sit down with the finance manager. Know if the rebate or low interest rate is a better deal. Look closely at choosing the shortest loan as possible. If you can pay off the loan in 36 months, you are choosing the best financial option.

Be careful when buying a car. If a manager pushes you to move too fast, walk away for a while. Slow things down and really let the numbers add up. Don't let them change the numbers around for tax purposes (to save you money). Take your time and make sure that you are getting what you want.

Cracks in a serpentine belt! Is this an indication to replace it?

The presence of small cracks in a serpentine belt are not an indication the belt is about to fail and needs to be replaced. Widely spaced small cracks are acceptable on ribbed serpentine belts. Some indications of potential serpentine belt failures include:

a. Three or more cracks within a 3-inch section of the belt.

b. Cracks extending from the tips of the ribs to the belt body.

c. Chunks of the ribs are missing.

d. There is a buildup of belt material between the ribs.

How To Wire Your Car For Trailer Lights

With summer around the corner there will be a lot of people pulling those campers and trailers. Make sure you get those lights wired and working correctly.

What you will need:

12 Volt Test Light
Heavy Duty 12V Flasher
Wire Crimper or Pliers
Trailer Light Connector
Electrical Tape
Before You Start:

Follow these instructions carefully. Read and be sure you understand them before you begin. Gather together all of your tools and supplies before you begin. Allow plenty of time to do the job so you don't have to hurry. Remember that these are general instructions. For more detailed instructions pertaining to your specific vehicle, consult an appropriate repair manual.

Safety is important whenever you're working around machinery. Beware of hot objects, sharp instruments and hazardous materials. Don't substitute tools unless you're sure you won't compromise either your safety or the performance of your vehicle. Never work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Use jack stands to support the vehicle while you work. Work on a solid, level surface. Never jack a car up on dirt or grass.

Wiring your vehicle for trailer lights is easy and only takes a few minutes. Most factory and custom built trailers are wired with a flat 4-wire, quick connect receptacle. There are two basic types of this connector available - a shield type and the standard type, either of which is compatible with the other. The wires on either type of receptacle are color coded - white, yellow, green and brown. The most common or widely used wiring code is:

Brown wire to the tail or parking lights
Green wire to right turn signal/stoplight
Yellow wire to the left turn signal/stoplight
White wire to common or chassis ground

An exception to this wiring code is if your vehicle has a 5-wire system that incorporates an amber or separate turn signal light in the rear of your vehicle. In this case you will need to purchase a trailer light converter that adapts the trailer's 4-wire system to your vehicle's wire system. They are available at your nearest Auto Store and come with complete and detailed wiring instructions. Just ask an experienced sales person for assistance.

Several types of wiring kits are available, from the basic economical kit with plug-ins and wire, to the deluxe kit that comes complete with chrome mounting brackets. Choose the kit that best fits your need and your pocketbook. The first step for wiring your vehicle for trailer lights is to locate the taillight wiring harness.

Most taillight wiring is accessible from inside the trunk or near the rear bumper. Next, find a suitable spot to connect the quick connect harness to, and double check to make sure the harness is long enough to reach the connector on the trailer. If additional wire or connectors are needed, just ask, your nearest Auto Store should have what you need.

Next, connect the clip end of the test light to a good, clean metal chassis ground. Next, turn the headlight switch to the headlamp/parking lamp "ON" position. With the test light, probe the wires (Figure 3) until the test light comes on and stays on. Connect the brown wire to that wire with a quick connector (usually supplied with the kit). Remember to turn off the headlights once connected.

Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" or "RUN" position and activate the right turn signal. Once again, probe the wires with the test light until the light flashes. This wire will be the right turn signal and right brake light wire. Connect the yellow wire to this wire. Turn off the ignition.

With the ignition switch still in the "RUN" position, activate the left turn signal. Once again, probe the wires with the test light until the light flashes. This wire will be the left turn signal and left brake light wire. Connect the yellow wire to this wire. Turn off the ignition.

The last wire to connect is the white wire. Locate a good metal chassis ground and connect the white wire there using sheet metal screw, or attach it to an existing ground wire. Your installation is complete.

Now hook the harness to the trailer connector and check all the lights for proper operation. If not all lights work at first, double check the quick connectors for proper connector or check the trailer light bulbs. You may want to tape all connections with electrical tape to help ensure trouble-free connections in the future. Place the wired trailer connector back in the trunk or secure underneath the car, clear from any exhaust pipes or road obstructions.

Remember to double check trailer lights every time you hook up to your trailer and recheck them about every 100 miles when towing. I would also suggest you install a heavy-duty turn signal flasher to carry the additional electrical load of the trailer lights.

Tuneups, are they a waste of money today?

As the vintage picture on the left shows "Tune-Up" has been with the automotive industry for some time! However, some things never change, such as the need for periodic preventive maintenance. But a tune-up is one job that's changed a great deal over the course of automotive history. The outdated term is still widely used by many people to describe a service procedure that's supposed to make an engine run better.

There's no absolute definition of what exactly a tune-up should include, but most would agree that it involves replacing the spark plugs and performing other adjustments to maintain or restore like-new engine performance. The problem is there's not much that can adjusted under the hood on many late model vehicles. Ignition timing is fixed and controlled by the engine computer, as is idle speed and the fuel mixture. You can still check base timing (maybe), idle speed and various emission functions to make sure everything is functioning within factory specs and are functioning properly. But there really isn't much of anything left to "tune." Yet motorists still want tune-ups and believe tune-ups are an important and necessary service.

A simple maintenance type tune-up (a new set of plugs) may make an engine easier to start, improve fuel economy, lower emissions, restore lost pep and power, and so on provided engine performance deteriorated because of worn or fouled spark plugs. But if the problem lies elsewhere, a new set of plugs alone won't do the trick and A "tune-up" under these circumstances would be a waste of time and money.

The first thing you should do, therefore, when someone asks about a tune-up is to find out why he thinks he wants one. If he gives any reason other than scheduled maintenance, he has a performance problem that will require additional testing to identify the cause (or causes) of the problem. Only after the performance problem has been diagnosed should any parts be replaced.

The word 'Tune-Up' has a little different meaning today, but one thing is for sure, no vehicle that's yet been built can even come close to going 100,000 miles without needing some type of maintenance or repair.

Find Good Buys at Government Seized Car Auctions

If you have dreamed of owning a luxury vehicle but you always thought it would be too extravagant a purchase, you should think again. You can actually get a classy car at a price you can well afford, by winning a bid at a government seized car auction. These are cars repossessed by federal agencies like the DEA and FBI, or by local and state governments, as part of the seizure of assets of convicted criminals.

Many cars are auctioned off for only a few hundred dollars, and while luxury vehicles attract more bids that drive up the price, in general the winning price bid at a seized car auction ranges from 30 to 60 percent off the original market price, depending on how new the vehicle is.

There are many types of vehicles at these auctions as well, so that you can probably find the kind of car you want with little trouble. If you're in the market for a pickup truck or an SUV, those types of cars are often available at a seized car auction. The government also has auctions of seized boats, ATVs, RVs, motorcycles, and snowmobiles.

Auctions of seized property usually follow a set schedule, such as once a month or once a quarter. You should check with your local government to find out what the schedule is. You can probably find out with a call to your police department. To take part in an auction you will have to pay a token registration fee. After you have paid, you will be given a bidder number. Your bids will not be recognized at an auction if you do not have a bidder number.

Before you attend the seized car auction, you should prepare yourself by getting a used auto price guide like the Kelley Blue Book. The guide will give you an idea of the retail and trade-in prices of various vehicles so you can better come up with an appropriate bid. This is very important as you do not want to set your bid too high. You should also take into account that in addition to the amount of the winning bid, the winner must also pay a buyer's premium that can range between five and 15 percent of the top bid.

With seized car auctions growing in popularity, you may end up bidding against quite a number of people. Arrive at the auction venue as early as possible so you have time to get comfortable and get a feel for the situation. Be relaxed and don't let yourself feel pressured if there is a large crowd.

The voltmeter that Lied!

A component isn’t working, so you hook up your voltmeter and discover you have system voltage. You turn the component on and still see system voltage, but the component doesn’t run. You assume the component is faulty so you change it?

But it still doesn’t work – so now what? Why didn’t it work?

The answer is simple: your voltmeter can’t ‘see’ – and therefore can’t ‘tell’ you there is a high resistance in the circuit, or that changing the component will change nothing. You simply wasted the time it took to locate, collect and change a perfectly serviceable component – ‘thanks’ to your voltmeter!

So the voltmeter lied? Well – Yes! It ‘lied’ because it wasn’t designed to ‘see’ high resistance in the wiring - even though that is one of the most common occurrences in circuit faults.

So what’s the answer? An ohmmeter? NO! – that won’t tell you what you need to know, which is: can the circuit carry load; or can it carry current.

TESlite Voltmeter Leads will give you the answer you need at the push of a button, in just seconds.

Shocking – but true! So before you next need to rely on your voltmeter, treat your meter to a set of TESlite Voltmeter Leads and get right first time results.

See http://www.aeswave.com/Products/Product.asp?i=662

Then watch the video below where the inventer of the Teslite (a mechanic) talks about how Testlite works!

http://www.aeswave.com/images/Products/testLOADhowTo.mov

Lemon Laws - and 'Catches'

If your steak is undercooked (or just plain mangy) you can always send it back -- or at least get a refund. But if the new car or truck you just bought turns out to be a lemon, sending it back -- or just getting satisfaction -- can be more complicated. And unpleasant.

In the first place, it takes a lot, hassle-wise, for a car to be officially acknowledged as a "lemon." You may have to wrangle extensively with the dealer who sold it to you -- and the manufacturer who built it -- before you can get out from under. The process can take a year or longer -- and repeated service calls, breakdowns and pains in the rear in the meanwhile.

Once they've got your money, it's hard to get it back.

The first thing to know is how your state defines a "lemon." Laws vary, but most have a few general provisions in common.

One, the problem(s) must be objective -- and covered by the manufacturer's original new car warranty. For example, if your six month old car suffers a transmission failure (or has a sunroof that leaks) that would be an objective, warranty-covered repair. If the transmission fails a second time -- or the leaky sunroof still leaks -- you've got the makings of "lemonade."

Two, despite repeated attempts -- typically no more than three or four -- the dealer has been unable to fix the problem. Or the car has been "out of service" for a given period of time -- typically, more than 30 days -- during the first year of ownership.

In a nutshell: You've taken it back for the same thing several times, but the transmission (or whatever) just keeps on acting up. They can't seem to fix it. The car's in the shop more than it's in your driveway, etc.

But there are several catches to be aware of.

The first of these is that many state lemon laws have a so-called "presumptive period" -- for example, 18 months or 18,000 miles, whichever comes first, as in California -- during which there must be tangible evidence of an abnormal, recurrent problem(s) in order for the full force of a lemon law's protections to be available after the manufacturer's new car warranty has run out.

This is why it is critical to bring any problems that crop up to the attention of the dealer as soon as they are discovered, and to document them. Keep records of every service visit -- and to make sure the work order/receipt clearly lists the reason why the car was brought in, as well as the date and the odometer reading at the time of service.

The longer you wait -- and the shorter the paper trail -- the more the odds are stacked against you.

The second catch is that the dealer/manufacturer may acuse you of having "abused" the vehicle. Most state lemon laws do not apply if the problem is deemed to be the result of "abuse" -- and that includes such things as failure to maintain and service the vehicle according to the factory recommendations. This is why it is important to a) adhere to the factory-recommended service protocols and b) keep detailed records of all work done, the date the work was done -- and the mileage at which it was done.

It's still ok to change your own oil and filter -- or to do other service work -- but for lemon law purposes, you must be able to produce proof that you did, in fact, change the oil and filter as per the factory time/mileage interval -- and with the correct weight and American Petroleum Institute (API) service specification (e.g., API specification SE, CD; 5W-15) oil and an Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) or equivalent "approved" brand of oil filter -- not a generic or unapproved "off-brand" part. That means keeping receipts for everything you buy (with dates stamped on them) and a log book of the dates/mileage readings when you performed the work. If you can't produce such records -- or use generic brand parts not specifically approved by the manufacturer -- you could be left holding the bag should a problem arise. The above is true as regards any home maintenance performed on the vehicle -- so be forewarned.

The moment you suspect you have a lemon on your hands -- unusual, recurrent problems, peeling/fading paint, leaks, "unfixable" electrical problems, premature failure of major components; constantly having to bring the car back to the shop, etc. -- it's a good idea to consult with an attorney who specializes in this type of consumer law. Most will not charge you for an initial consultation to determine whether you, in fact, have a valid cause of action.

Don't "learn to live with" a balky, unreliable car -- or accept blarney from the dealer that it's "normal" (as an example) for a car to need a new transmission at 12,000 miles. Remember: If there is in fact a defect with a component such as a transmission, it may recur -- even if a "new" unit is installed. The basic design could be flawed -- and the "new" transmission probably won't last any longer than the first one. And once the warranty period (or lemon law coverage "window") has expired, you could be out of luck -- even if you're on your third transmission in less than 40,000 miles.

If you do have a solid case, you and your lawyer should be able to get the dealer/manufacturer to either "buy back" the lemon (less an "adjustment" for the mileage on it), or replace it with another vehicle of equivalent value -- if that's acceptable to you. Sometimes, the dealer will offer "unlimited free service" for the life of the car -- or something along those lines -- instead of a buy-back or replacement offer But it's up to you whether the "free" service will compensate you for the hassle of owning a car you feel you can't trust or depend on.

For a state by state listing of lemon laws and their provisions, see www.123car.com/lemon/lemonbystate.html or www.lemonlawamerica.com.

1957 Plymouth Belvedere Sport Coupe-To be excavated!

The lucky person who in 1957 correctly guessed what Tulsa, Oklahoma's population would be in 2007 is destined to win the brand-new 1957 Belvedere Sport Coupe sealed in a time capsule beneath Tulsa's courthouse.


On June 15, 1957, a new gold and white 1957 Plymouth Belvedere Sport Coupe was buried in a time capsule in downtown Tulsa, OK. The time capsule was part of Golden Jubilee Week: Tulsa's celebration of Oklahoma's semi-centennial. The car is buried under the sidewalk in front of the Tulsa County Courthouse, approximately 100 feet north of the intersection of Sixth Street and Denver Avenue.

The car was seen as a method of acquainting twenty-first century citizens with a suitable representation of 1957 civilization. According to event chairman Lewis Roberts Jr., the Plymouth was chosen because it was "an advanced product of American industrial ingenuity with the kind of lasting appeal that will still be in style 50 years from now."

The contents of a women's purse, including bobby pins, a bottle of tranquilizers, cigarettes and an unpaid parking ticket, were added to the glove compartment of the car shortly before burial.
Other items included in the time capsule were: 10 gallons of gasoline and 5 quarts of oil.

As part of the "Tulsarama!" festivities, citizens of Tulsa were asked to guess what the population of Tulsa would be in the year 2007. The guesses were then recorded on microfilm and sealed in a steel container buried with the car. When the car and artifacts are excavated, the person whose guess is closest to Tulsa's 2007 population is to be awarded the Belvedere.

Here is a quicktime video that shows what went on back in 1957!

http://www.buriedcar.com/MOVIECLIPS/buried4-tmj.qt

Used Car Buying Pros and Cons

Buying even a slightly used car can save you a bundle vs. buying the same car brand-new. But there are different risks to be aware of -- and to prepare yourself for. They include:

* Financing -- A chief advantage of buying new is that while the cost of the car itself may be higher, the cost of money (the interest rate you pay on the loan) is usually lower. It's important to take into account the total cost involved -- not just the car and its purchase price, but the interest rate you'll be paying if you finance the purchase. A $15,000 new car with a zero percent financing deal could make more sense than a used $10,000 car with a high interest rate loan.

* It's worth less faster -- Another thing to consider is that a car that's already a couple of years old when you buy it will be worth less, sooner than a newer car. That may be something you'll want to consider if future re-sale/trade-in value is a factor. On the other hand, if you are the kind of person who "drives it until the wheels fall off" this won't matter -- and the money you saved up front on depreciation losses (the biggest hit on a new car purchase) is money in your pocket.

* Each used car is different -- Unlike a new car, which is exactly identical to others of the same make/model (other than superficialities like color, trim and so on) every used car is individual and will have its own unique service history, including the legacy of the treatment (good or bad) it received by its former owner(s). Of two otherwise identical, same-make, same-model, same-year vehicles, one may have had a very easy prior life -- while the other one was "rode hard and put up wet." The first car might have another 100,000 miles of faithful, reliable service left in it; the second one might be in need of expensive repairs or its systems closer to being "worn out" -- and likely to cost you a lot more in terms of upkeep and maintenance. (This is why it is so important to have any used car you are considering buying thoroughly inspected by a shop you trust before you commit to buying. If the seller balks, walk away. Odds are you'll have done yourself a big favor.)

* Fewer options -- With a new car, you can usually order exactly what you want in terms of trim levels, engine choices, colors and so on. With used cars, you may have to compromise, especially if you find an otherwise great deal on a car that is a different color than you might have chosen, or doesn't have a sunroof, etc. You'll have to weigh the importance of being able to get exactly what you want (and paying full new car price) vs. settling for a car that may not have exactly everything -- but which cost you a lot less.

* No "grace period" -- With a new car, one of the big perks is the car should not require anything beyond very basic upkeep (oil and filter changes, tire rotation, etc.) for at least the first couple of years of ownership. A used car, on the other hand, has used brakes (even if the pads are new, the other system components, including things like the ABS pump on models so equipped, aren't), there's mileage on the clutch, the automatic transmission fluid, timing belt (on cars with overhead cam engines) and so on. You'll be be paying to fix/replace things like this sooner than you otherwise would -- and it's important to keep that in mind when buying a used vs. a new car.

* Warranty coverage -- More precisely, the lack thereof. All new cars come with a full "comprehensive" warranty that covers just about anything that might go wrong; with a used car, that warranty may have expired. At the least, it will be closer to expiring. You can usually buy an extended warranty, of course -- but the "piece of mind factor" is something many buyers consider to be well worth the added cost of buying a new car vs. a used one.

* It's not new -- This last (and most subjective) variable is one you'll have to weigh for yourself. For many people, that "new car smell" matters a great deal -- and of course, just isn't there with a used vehicle (even if you spray the interior with some of that aerosol "new car smell" stuff you can buy).

Induction Thermal Expansion- Remove rusted bolts, nuts etc.

Wouldn't it be nice to be able heat nuts, bolts, and other mechanical hardware cherry red in seconds without flame! By using an electromagnetic field it is possible by creating small electrical currents in metal parts, that cause the metal part to produce its own internal heat. The magnetic field has no affect on non-metals allowing heat to be applied near plastic objects or other sensitive areas without damage. This rapid heating will cause nuts to heat before the stud gets hot, which creates thermal expansion that allows a frozen nut to be removed with little effort.

In the picture on the upper left notice how the nut is hot while the stud is relatively cool. The difference in temperature causes the nut to expand faster than the stud, making it easier to remove. 500F to 600F is usually enough for most applications.

For more information see the "Autotron" which Utilizes induction heating.
See http://www.autotronheater.com/

Routine Maintenance

We all know it is cheaper to fix things yourself. It is the same with a car or truck. The biggest expense with any repair is not the parts, but the labor. It is not uncommon for repair and service shops to be charging $60 to $70 per hour of labor. And they round to the next half hour or hour for any repair. Just go to any new car dealer and ask to have your windshield wiper blades replaced. They will charge you 10 times the price of replacements at your local auto parts store. So anything you can do yourself to save will be a big help. The purpose of this article is to show you some things you can do on your own and how to get the lowest prices on parts so you can save big and put your money towards something better than fattening your local auto dealers pockets. First off is routine maintenance. Routine maintenance consists of items like oil changes, tire rotations, and similar. Oil changes are a must at every 4000 to 5000 miles for most every car. Do not go by what your dealer says. They want to rev up your maintenance plan and have you doing more than is required. Instead, use your owners manual. If your car didn't come with one, than buy one off of Ebay. The owners manual will give you exact recommendations for every service and when and what should be done. For oil changes use Walmart. They charge around $15 for a oil and filter change and will lube your chassis at the same time. They will also check your tires and change your air filter if you desire or need it. They have the best service for the lowest price and at $15 its better to have them do it than do it yourself. Expect to pay twice this at a new car dealer. It is also a good idea to check your tire pressure at every gas fill up. A tire pressure gauge can be purchased at Walmart or any auto parts store for a few dollars. Proper tire pressure will prolong the usefulness of your tires and help ensure better fuel economy. To most people a under inflated tire is pretty obvious, but a over inflated tire can be just as dangerous as it can lead to blowouts and loss of traction especially in wet conditions (hydroplaning). Also, check your tires for nails, punctures, slashes, anything that could be wrong with it. If you need new tires, be sure to shop around and avoid the new car dealer as they will have a huge markup on them. For instance, 1 ZR Goodyear tire for a 2002 Ford Mustang GT was $289. The same ZR tire with a different make (Kumho) was $100 installed and balanced (the $289 at the dealer did not include installation or balancing. Shop around and look at discount stores. Also look at Costco, Sams club and BJ's for tires. If you have an older car and don't care about matching the exact style you can always go to your local junk yard and buy an entire set for dirt cheap. You would be amavzed at what you might find there. A friend of mine picked up 4 tires for a 1999 corvette for $150 and the tires only had maybe 10,000 miles on them if that. Lights and lighting on your car are an item that is routinely overlooked. If your lights are dim you could have a battery charge, alternator or dim, cloudy lenses. These are all easy to fix. A battery should be checked for its ability to hold charge at least once a year (more in extremely cold climates). An alternator can be replaced very easily, or if you don't feel comfortable a local mechanic can do it. Do not do this at a new car dealer as they will charge at least 300% more. A good tip is to go and buy the part at your local auto parts store and then inquire with the counter clerk as to a mechanic that they recommend to install it. You will save a lot and it will be professionally done. They will probably even come to your house to do it. As to your headlights, turn on your lights. If they are dim, is it the bulb or cloudy lenses? If it is the bulb, the cheapest replacements can be found at Walmart or on Ebay. It is recommended you go with brighter Xeon bulbs as they are only a few dollars more and increase brightness and night visibility by over 20 percent. If it is cloudy headlights there is a new headlight repair and restoration kit that will restore the lenses to new. This will save you big over replacement as the average plastic automotive lens costs $250 to replace. Checking your fluid levels routinely is a good idea. A lot of cars now will do this for you and will even alert you to when it is time to perform a certain service. It takes 2 minutes to unscrew the oil cap and pull out the dipstick. On older cars you should also look under the cap. Is the oil really dirty, sludge like, or have white in it? These all indicate something needs to be done. The first two mean it is in dire need of an oil change. The latter with the whiteness or light chocolate look means you have a blown head gasket and coolant is leaking into the engine. That is really bad and requires major repairs and can be the result of running a car too hot. Fill all fluids to the fuel full line or indicator. By routinely checking your cars fluid levels you will be ahead of the game and keep your car running better and for much longer. Another great idea to keep service costs to a minimum and save you big at the same time is to buy 1 to 3 year old used cars with around 30,000 miles on them. Then drive them until you get 100,000 miles on it and replace it. Most major repairs rarely occur before 100,000 miles with proper routine maintenance. Use and follow your owners manual. It was written by the ultimate expert, the people who built, designed and tested your car.

Change the oil filter every other oil change

To reduce the costs of vehicle ownership and maintenance, many car makers say the oil filter only needs to be replaced at every other oil change. Is this a good practice?

The oil filters on most engines today have been downsized to save weight, cost and space. The "standard" quart-sized filter that was once common on most engines has been replaced by a pint-sized (or smaller) filter. You don’t have to be a rocket scientist to figure out that a smaller filter has less total filtering capacity. Even so, the little filters should be adequate for a 3,000 mile oil change intervals -- but may run out of capacity long before a second oil change at 6,000 or 15,000 miles.

If you wait too long to change the filter, there’s a danger that it might become plugged. To prevent this from causing a catastrophic engine failure due to loss of lubrication, oil filters have a built-in safety device called a "bypass valve." When the pressure drop across the filter exceeds a predetermined value (which varies depending on the engine application), the bypass valve opens so oil can continue to flow to the engine. But this allows unfiltered oil to enter the engine. Any contaminants that find their way into the crankcase will be pumped through the engine and accelerate wear.

Replacing the oil filter every time the oil is changed, therefore, is highly recommended.

Always Read the Fine Print

While there are some great deals to be had on new cars today, it's always smart to be sure you understand the offers -- and whether there are any "qualifiers," "restrictions," "exclusions" or "limitations" that could affect you.

Most ad offers -- whether TV, print or online -- showcase the big numbers and best deals in very large type -- with any stuff that might not be so appealing scrunched down into micro-sized print at the every bottom of the page (or read-through at warp speed by an announcer who might as well be speaking Swahili, as far as your ability to follow what he's saying).

Here are some things to be on the lookout for:

* "Offer only available in FLA, GA, SC... " (and so on). Many incentives offered by the automakers are regional -- meaning, if you don't live in one of the areas where the deal is good, the deal is not available to you. The same car might cost $1,500 less (or more) just by crossing the state line.

* "All estimates are computed on the basis of a 10 percent down payment..." Some financing deals are contingent on things like the buyer coming up with a predetermined cash down payment. In the example above, you'd need $4,000 in cash at the time of sale to take advantage of the advertised low-rate financing on a vehicle with a sales price of $40,000. If you don't have the cash down payment, they may stick you with a higher finance rate.

* "Offer not compatible with other offers..." This means you may not be able to get both low-rate financing and "x" dollars cash back. You have to pick one or the other. It's important to run the numbers before you are in the pressure cooker of the dealer's store, too. This way, you'll know ahead of time whether it makes more sense for you to go with the lower-rate financing -- or the rebate.

* Dealer participation may affect savings... " This means the offer's contingent on the dealer's "participation" in the program (rebate/cash back, special rate financing, etc.) being advertised by the automaker. Remember: Dealers are independent operations; they may sell Fords or Hondas, etc. -- but you are not dealing with Ford or Honda, per se. Be sure the dealer you're negotiating with is, in fact, participating in the rebate/cash back deal you saw on TV. He may not be. Don't assume he is.

* "For Bonus Cash, buyer must take retail delivery by ..." As implied, the deal's only good if you buy the car before a specific date. This can put pressure on the consumer to make a snap decision -- or purchase a car "off the lot" that may not have all the features and equipment (or color) the buyer wanted, etc.

* Estimates do not include the cost of transportation and handling charges, dealer prep, labor..." This is a potential loophole big enough to drive a Hummer through. The price you thought you were getting could very well turn out to be nothing like the price you actually end up getting -- if you are not very careful. Insist that every charge/fee associated with the proposed purchase be clearly spelled out, in writing, before you commit to buy. "Dealer prep" alone can add hundreds to the bottom line -- negating any savings you may have expected via the "cash back" lure that got you into the showroom.

* "Not all buyers will qualify..." Most finance offers have this little caveat somewhere in the fine print. If you are a young/first-time buyer -- or have less than exemplary credit -- that 1.9 (or lower) finance rate you were counting on may be unavailable to you. It's a good idea to check alternate sources for financing -- such as a bank or credit union -- just in case the deal being offered by the automaker's finance arm won't be extended to you.

* Residency and other mileage restrictions may apply..." This means the offer might be contingent not just on where you happen to live -- but also on how many miles you drive annually (lease contract). It doesn't do you much good to get a great deal on a lease if your annual mileage exceeds the maximum allowable -- at which point you'll get whacked with additional charges. It's always best to over-estimate your annual mileage -- just to be safe -- when it comes to lease contracts.

* "Vehicle shown may contain optional equipment available at additional cost..." In other words, what you see (in the ad) may not be what you get (at the dealer). Be sure the car you want -- with the equipment you want -- is in fact available under the terms of the offer. A great deal on a car you don't want isn't much of a bargain.

* "Bonus cash offered on eligible vehicles must be financed or leased through (the automaker's captive finance arm)... " This means that in order to get the offered cash back/rebate, you have to finance the vehicle through the automaker's own finance company (Ford Credit, GMAC, etc.) rather than a credit union or private bank. You may also not be able to get the cash back if you pay cash for the vehicle. Basically, the automaker is looking to recoup the "cash back" by making money from you via interest payments. It may still be a good deal for you -- or not.

The key to negotiating the fine print shoals is to take the time to read and understand every clause, caveat and potential loophole before you sign anything or cut a check.

Are all brands of Synthetic motor oils the same?

All Synthetic motor oils are made from the same process, where they take petroleum oil and continue to refine it. The major distinction is the price , where the best synthetic’s are processed more extensively. Is this so?

Not so! There are 3 groups of synthetic oils in use today in automobile engines. Group III which is actually "phony" synthetic oil. As described above it is protroluem oil that is refined over and over. Group III base stocks are produced by further hydrocracking of Group II base stocks. For the most part this is what you buy off the shelves in stores. Most manufacturers have labeled their group III based oils as synthetic in the US for reasons of economy and marketing.

Group IV which is made by converting natural gas into polyalphaolefins, and is much better then petroleum oils. Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple are all group IV oils.

Best of all there is group V polyol ester, which are man made and offer the best protection for your engine that money can buy! Oils such as Redline , Neo are group V.

Cell phone chatter can cause accidents

You have seen these drivers and, in frightening moments, you've driven near them. One hand is holding their cell phone and the other is clutching a cup of coffee or a burger, which begs the question, 'How are they driving?'

The answer, on far too many occasions, is badly. A 1997 report in the New England Journal of Medicine compared the effects of using a cell phone while driving to the impact of driving legally drunk. While the study's methodology has been criticized, eyewitness reports confirm the problem.

"I can always tell when I'm behind someone who is on the phone," says Patty Butler, an Atlanta labor attorney who has written articles on employer liability for their employees' auto accidents when they're on the phone. "They're not paying attention. They speed up, they slow down, they change lanes unexpectedly."

"You see them weaving and driving very slowly," says Tim Heerdt, a risk control director for the St. Paul Companies, a major business property and casualty insurer. "It's very similar to the impact of someone under the influence."

According to the Insurance Information Institute, nearly 135 million people used cell phones in the United States in 2002. That's up from about 4.3 million in 1990. But while cell phones provide a major convenience, recent studies have shed light on the safety risks of using one while driving.

The Harvard Center for Risk Analysis reported in December 2002 that cell phone use could be faulted in 6 percent of the auto accidents in the United States each year. In the past three years, cell phone usage has been an issue in several lawsuits, and employers are being held responsible if a worker causes an accident while talking on the phone.

In response to a growing number of accidents involving inexperienced drivers who were talking on the phone, the National Transportation Safety Board recommended this summer that states take immediate action. The NTSB called for all states to follow New Jersey's lead and ban drivers with learner's permits or intermediate licenses from using cell phones, pagers or any other electronic device while driving.

To date, New York has banned everyone from using hand-held cell phones while driving; hands-free devices are permitted. A first-time violation carries up to a $100 fine. Ten other states, and many municipalities, have regulations on the books restricting their use. This summer, a California bill that would have banned using hand-held phones while driving died in committee because the sponsor concluded that amendments to the bill would make it unenforceable.

Despite the legislative emphasis on hand-held phones, research has indicated that it's the conversation itself that keeps drivers from paying attention to the road. A National Safety Council study found that people who were talking on the phone, whether it was hand-held or hands-free, missed twice as many simulated traffic signals as drivers who weren't on the phone.

"We're aware of a case now with three fatalities with a hands-free phone," Heerdt says. "The person wandered out of his lane and pushed another car into oncoming traffic.

One thing about cell phone conversations is that lengthy ones can be very involved.

"People ask. 'How is it different from adjusting the radio?' Compare that to a half-hour business call, closing a deal or disciplining your children."

The information on cell phones' roles in accidents is still largely anecdotal, but that may be changing. Heerdt says that police departments are starting to include questions about cell phones on their accident reports, and his company asks applicants if their companies restrict employees from using cell phones while they're driving. A 'no' answer won't keep them from getting insurance, but it won't win them any brownie points, either.

State Farm Insurance, the nation's largest personal auto insurer, doesn't track cell phone usage on accident claims, but spokesman Dick Luedke says the company is aware that they are "one of many potential distractions while driving. They've become part of our culture and we hope people use them responsibly so it doesn't distract them from the most important activity at hand."

If you must use the cell phone while driving, highway safety experts recommend that you:

Get to know your phone and its features so you know where the buttons are.
Use a hands-free headset.
Keep your phone within easy reach so you don't have to reach or bend over to answer it.
Don't take or place calls during heavy traffic or severe weather.
Don't take notes or look up phone numbers.
If possible, place calls when you are stopped, or when you're not merging.
Don't have stressful or emotional conversations while you're driving.

Tip: When resetting the tire pressure monitoring systems

When resetting the tire pressure monitoring systems, don't touch the key fob button. Why? If the key fob is inadvertently pressed, tire pressure monitoring system data can be corrupted. Also when mounting the tire, be sure to copy the ID number on the sensor. The number will be needed when reprogramming the sensor after the tire is mounted.

Tire Inflation drops in cold temperature

Tire Inflation Goes Down As Temperatures Drop Some people love the hot and humid weather of summer. Others long for the freshness of spring. Some are autumn people. Another portion may be winter and cold weather lovers.
And with winter slamming itself up so greatly this time, it is very much important to note that our vehicles also do need a little caring for this winter season. You may have noticed the little sprinkle of snowflakes on your vehicle but there is more to that that winter may be doing on your vehicle.
According to Goodyear, one of the world's best known and trusted tire manufacturers, winter is the time when the inflation of your car's tires drops. This is because the air inside the tire goes down as the temperature around also drops. The company also does say that if the temperature drops to around ten degrees, the tire pressure also goes down by about one to two pounds. If you are not quite so observant about this on your tires, you may be experiencing some tire trouble later on as you do your winter driving.
Bob Toth is the marketing manager of Goodyear for its auto tires and he points out, "Odds are that many motorists haven't checked their tire pressure since the weather began turning colder. If the last time the tire pressure was checked was during the heat of summer, with temperatures around 80 degrees, many people could be riding on severely underinflated tires without realizing it." He also does continue, "Even though consumers can simply and quickly check the air pressure of their tires, it becomes a neglected practice by many. That's too bad, because the four patches of rubber that come in contact with the road surface are vitally important to the performance of the vehicle. They are key for acceleration, lateral traction and braking grip."
To be sure, check your car's tires and make sure that you maintain the required air pressure as specified in your car owner's manual. After all, if you have underinflated tires and you continue on using your vehicle, you would be surprised to find severe tread wear on the outside edges of your tires.

The Master Cylinder and the Power Brake Booster

Is this correct?

If brake fluid is being sucked into the engine from the brake master cylinder, both the master cylinder and power brake booster must be replaced?

Yes! Although you might wonder why, but a worn secondary seal on the master cylinder primary piston will allow brake fluid to escape into the brake booster. The brake booster should also be replaced because it has been contaminated by the brake fluid and the internal rubber components will soon fail, so you should replace it.