Mass Air flow Sensors(MAF) & cleaning

The mass airflow sensor is placed in the stream of intake air. It measures the intake flow rate by measuring a part of the entire intake flow. It consists of a hot wire that is supplied with electric current from the ECM. The temperature of the hot wire is controlled by the ECM a certain amount. The heat generated by the hot wire is reduced as the intake air flows around it. The more air, the greater the heat loss. Therefore, the ECM must supply more electric current to maintain the temperature of the hot wire as airflow increases. The ECM detects the airflow by means of this current change.

The Mass Air Flow sensor is a very delicate sensor.
Between very fine dirt and the trend towards oiled filters it's very important to keep the MAF clean. MAF sensors also can get contaminated from a variety of sources: dirt, oil, silicon, spider webs, potting compound from the sensor itself, etc. When a MAF sensor gets contaminated, it skews the transfer function such that the sensor over-estimates air flow at idle (causes the fuel system to go rich) and under-estimates air flow at high air flows (causes fuel system to go lean). This means Long Term Fuel Trims will learn lean (negative) corrections at idle and learn rich (positive) corrections at higher airflows.

In the past there really was not any safe way of cleaning them without risk of damaging them. Today CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner is the safe and an effective alternative to using aggressive chemicals like brake parts cleaners or carburetor cleaners.

Tips to ensure you get the car service you pay for:

_ Always get a written estimate for parts and labors.

_ Make sure the estimate states that the shop will contact you for approval before performing any work exceeding a specified amount of time or money.

_ When you pick up your car, ask the service manager to explain all work completed and all replacements made.

_ Get a completed repair order describing the work done. It should list each repair, parts supplied, the cost of each part, labor charges, and the vehicle's odometer reading when you brought the vehicle in as well as when the repair order was completed.

_ Ask for all replaced parts and that any major new parts that have been installed be pointed out to you, if possible.

_ If the shop guarantees its work, get the guarantee in writing.

Tires, date codes, & Tire Industry Association (TIA)

Weathering and ozone cracking causes superficial cracks on
the sidewall surface around the tire circumference.
This condition is typical of tires which have
been in service for a long time.
You should check the date code on the tire.
To find the tire date code look on the
sidewall for a stamped string of letters
and numbers following the DOT.


The last four digits of the string indicate the week and year of
manufacture (e.g. 3206 would be the 32nd week of 2006).
Tire cracks can also come from exposure to ozone from
sunlight or storage next to ozone sources (e.g. electrical
equipment, air purifiers, vehicle exhaust).
According to the Tire Industry Association (TIA),
other possible causes include use of damaging tire
cleaning/dressing products, improper
inflation pressure, exposure to excessive heat, or by long
term parking when the tire is under load and deflected.


If the cracking is superficial they can be continued in
use, according to the TIA. For safety reasons, discard
tires over 6 years old or with less than 50%
remaining tread. Discard any tires wherecracking is
severe or structural material (i.e. cord) is visible

Are Hybrid Electric Vehicles The Answer To The Out Of Control Fuel Prices?

Major car manufacturers have made claims that the hybrids are the vehicles of the future. This is due to the demand that people are now making as a way of negotiating the overpriced gas prices that have risen steadily over the past few years. The hybrid vehicle is certainly the solution that many people have been searching for.

Gas prices have increased so dramatically over the recent years that many people are using public vehicles as way of going about their everyday lives instead of using their cars. So are hybrid electric vehicles the answer?

It appears so as since the launch of hybrid vehicles and promise of cost savings the sales for many hybrid cars were much higher than expected. It is fully understandable that many people have keenly awaited the launch of the hybrid automobiles on the car market.

It's time to discuss the technical aspects of the hybrid. Such vehicles are generally referred by that name if they run on joint power. Which is currently petrol and electricity which is stored in large capacity batteries.

The reason why hybrid cars save fuel is because the car is not permanently running on petrol. There are time when the car is powered by the electricity from the batteries. This is the reason why the consumption of gasoline is dramatically lowered thus reducing the petrol bills of the owner.

Over the years the technology that is involved in making a hybrid cars is constant evolving which is helping the manufactures make significant strides in modifying and making continuous improvements.

Hybrid vehicles use a rechargeable energy storage system that is also referred to as RESS which comes with a propeller that supplies the fueled propulsion power that drives the car. Other countries refer to the hybrid automobile as a petroleum electric hybrid which also goes by the name of hybrid electric vehicle that use petrol to help provide the cars internal combustion engines, technical term being ICEs and the electric batters provide the requirement to power the electrical motors.

The major car companies from all over the world are currently in tight race to produce hybrid cars on a large scale. They seem to believe that hybrid electric vehicles the answer to many commuters large gasoline bills. The competition is getting so stiff that these types of cars are becoming more intensely marketed with the cars becoming more stylish.

Opportunities do really come in time of crises so giant car makers are rushing to each offer the consumers their own hybrid car versions and models and at the same time, underpin rising demand for such cars, equating logically to higher sales and company revenues.

Japan's Honda and Toyota corps are definitely market leaders in the race to control the hybrid car market not only in Japan but in US and many other countries from around the world. The price increase of petrol is playing a key part but also people are becoming more aware of the environment issues that arise from driving a regular vehicle on a daily basis.

Other car manufacturers follow suit, and it is expected that in the next couple of years, more and more hybrid vehicles are to be unveiled in the market by the two car makers and their aggressive competitors.

No wonder, because hybrid vehicles are tagged not only as oil and cost-saving cars but also as environment-friendly vehicles. Yes, you read it right.

Because hybrid vehicles have reduced gasoline consumption, it follows that smoke and greenhouse gas emissions are also significantly reduced.

Buying a hybrid vehicle is like killing two birds with one stone. Now only will you be saving on oil and gasoline costs but you will also be playing your part in saving the environment by cutting down on gas emissions that are having a very negative affect on the earths atmosphere.

Road Force Variation & Measurement

Road Force Measurement is new to the automotive service industry. This new measurement identifies tire and wheel uniformity, which has been measured for years in assembly plants and manufacturing facilities. Road Force can be used to solve uniformity related tire and wheel vibrations. Tire/wheel assembly uniformity can only be measured under load. The load roller on the GSP9700 performs a computer simulated "road test". It measures the tire/wheel assembly to determine how "round" the assembly is when rolling under a load. If a tire were not exposed to the road surface, then balance would be more than sufficient. However, not all tires roll round under a load. For example, an egg-shaped tire/wheel assembly can be balanced about its axis, but an egg-shaped tire-wheel loaded against a surface would not give a smooth ride.

Explained another way. If you were to drill a hole through a concrete block in such a manner that you could attach it to a spin-balancer, you could, by adding or subtracting weight make that concrete block spin smoothly with absolutely no vibration. Now take that same concrete block, or more specifically 4 of them, and attach them to your vehicle. Smooth ride? No!

To understand the effects of radial force variation on vibration, a model of a tire can be used. The sidewall and footprint can be understood as a collection of springs between the rim and the tire contact patch. If the "springs" are not of uniform stiffness, a varied force is exerted on the axle and causes it to move up and down as the tire rotates and flexes. This movement creates a vibration in the vehicle unrelated to balance.


Getting back to the Hunter GSP9700. It solves vibration problems balancing can't fix!
The machine works through a large roller which is pushed against the tread of the tire with 700 pounds of force as the tire rotates. During this force application cycle there are micro-sensors inside the machine that monitor variances in road force. A computer in the machine converts these readings into numbers for the technician. These numbers tell if the tire is good or bad and also if the road force variation can be brought into spec by rotating the tire on the wheel. Sounds complicated, but only to a point. In the hands of a trained technician the job can be performed without a hitch. By having this done, you instantly know
– are the tires good
– are the tires bad
– do I need to replace the tires
– do I need to matchmount the tires
– do I need to look elsewhere in the car.

You can view a video of how the Hunter GPS9700 works on the following link.
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/images/video/gsp9700_T1_video.cfm

Black & Decker BB7B Simple Start Battery Booster

Now here is a great Stocking stuffer for the Holidays! Give your car battery a boost from inside the comfort of your car with Simple Start new from Black & Decker. No jumper cables to mess with, no way to improperly connect, no voltage surges that can damage your car's computer! So simple anyone can hook it up and in a few minutes your battery is ready to start your car!

Simply insert the Simple Start’s DC adapter into the car’s 12 volt DC outlet and wait several minutes. A boost indicator LED and audible beep lets you know when your battery is charged and ready to start.

In my opinuin a great present to give someone for the holidays.
The Simple Start Battery Booster From Black & Decker:

. Charges & starts vehicle in minutes through car’s 12V DC accessory outlet
. 12 volt DC charging port for charging cell phones
. 2 LED area light built-in for emergency use
. Compact design for storage; fits in most glove compartments
. Rechargeable from 12 volt DC vehicle outlet or 120 volt AC household charger, in charge mode

Auto Industry's 10 Best and Worst Cars for Depreciation

Cars, unlike parcels of land, do not appreciate in value over time. They normally depreciate. Moreover, vehicle owners have to know the cars that hold value best. Which cars do not easily depreciate? According to the Consumer Reports' depreciation ratings, import brands lead in car resale value while the domestic models are on the adverse position.

It was found out that those affordably priced cars like the Toyota Prius hybrid, Scion vehicles and Mini Cooper hold their value better than sports and luxury vehicles in the market. The best cars are made by either Japanese or European nameplates. On the other hand, the worst cars with high depreciation are mostly domestic brands, which are commonly used by rental companies and fleets.

The best and worst cars in depreciation are rated by Consumer Reports based on the difference between the MSRP of a 2004 model when new and its present retail value. The average depreciation was approximately 45 percent over the first 3 years. Those cars that belong to the top 10 are above average while those at the bottom are below average. The Manufacturer Suggested Retail Prices (MSRP) of the cars were rounded to the nearest $500.

The best car depreciating rating was given to Toyota Prius. As a fact, there is an overwhelming demand for this particular car. Toyota parts for Prius were further improved by several upgrades that include extra batteries, stealth mode, chargers and solar panels. A used Prius can be had at approximately $22,000. The top 10 best cars for depreciation are Toyota Prius, Mini Cooper ($17,500 to $25,500), Scion xB ($14,000 to $15,000), BMW M3 ($49,000 to $56,500), Lexus RX ($36,000 to $46,000), BMW 6-Series ($72,000 to $79,000), Lexus GX ($46,500), Acura TSX ($30,000), Scion xA ($13,000 to $13,500), and Honda Civic & Civic Hybrid ($14,500 to $24,500).

The worst car in depreciation is Ford Freestar, which has replaced Ford Windstar. Last year, the sales figure of the car was down by 20 percent. Now it has a depreciation value of $19,500 to $29,500 far below the average. Next to Ford Freestar are Ford Crown Victoria ($24,500 to $27,500), Buick Rainier ($31,500 to $33,500), Lincoln Town Car ($42,000 to $50,500), Dodge Caravan/Grand Caravan ($18,500 to $27,500), Mercury Grand Marquis ($25,000 to $29,500), GMC Envoy ($26,500 to $37,000), Ford Explorer ($26,500-$36,000), Buick Rendezvous ($25,000 to $28,500), and Chrysler Town & Country ($21,500 to $36,000).

A great tool-The Magnetic Finger!

Here is a Neat Item for anyone who works on cars, trucks, airplanes, boats, Street Rods, upholstery, sewing or any other application where small ferrous metal parts are a problem to hold in place or position.
Where can you get it? http://magneticfinger.com/

Avoiding Repair Shop Rip-Offs

Avoiding Repair Shop Rip-Offs

* Be sure the shop is competent -- While outright fraud and rip-offs are still very real dangers, an equally real and equally dangerous one is simple ineptitude. Modern computer-controlled vehicles are incredibly complex pieces of equipment; if the guy under the hood lack the skills and tools to properly diagnose and fix whatever the problem is, he'll often just hunt and peck -- pulling parts (at your expense) and "fixing" things that probably don't need to be fixed. Meanwhile, your original problem's still a problem, even though you've been back to the shop two or three times now already. Look for ASE-certified (National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence) technicians. Ask for recommendations from friends and family -- people you trust. Avoid shops that look unprofessional and downtrodden -- and check with your local consumer affairs department for any history of complaints lodged against a shop you're considering doing business with.

* Get a second opinion -- As with buying a car, rush decisions when it comes to authorizing repairs can come back to haunt you. Especially if your car has developed a sudden problem and you feel panicky about getting it fixed right this minute. It is always a good idea to get a second opinion (and an additional estimate), in particular for major work that may or may not be necessary. The value of getting a second opinion is two-fold: One, if the second shop confirms the opinion of the first shop as far as the problem is concerned, you can be reasonably confident that this is, in fact, what's actually wrong with the car. Two, if you get a second estimate your feel for what constitutes a fair price for the work will be much better. If the second shop's quote is much higher, you can go back to the first one (or ask the second shop why their estimate is so much higher). And if the two estimates are about the same, you can feel secure you're not being taken for a ride.

* Trust (but verify) -- The Gipper's formulation is just as applicable to car work as it is to missile treaties. So if you're taking your car in to get the tires rotated, it's a smart move to discretely mark one of the tires with some white chalk in a place no one would notice unless they knew where to look. Then, when you pick your car up, you can check to see whether the shop actually did rotate your tires. Similarly, pull the dipstick after an oil change to make sure you got what you paid for (fresh oil) and, if you can, mark the oil filter just as you would the tires -- so that you can be certain a new one was actually installed. (Some have recommended asking to see the parts that have been replaced as evidence the work was actually done -- but this can be easily gotten around by the simple expedient of picking up a grimy old part off the shop floor and presenting it to you as "your" old part. The only way to be sure is to mark the part yourself -- before it's removed -- then check to see whether the part you're shown has that mark on it.)

* Pre-shop repair shops -- For the same reason it's good to know the doctor who's about to cut into your chest, it's a smart move to look for a shop before you need one. There are excellent dealers and excellent independent shops -- but there are also terrible dealers and equally bad independents. Don't assume that just because it's "the dealer" that it must be good -- or that an independent shop isn't as good as a dealer because it doesn't have a Toyota or Ford sign on the door. Ask your friends and family about their experiences with local shops -- the good, the bad and the ugly. Most folks are more than willing to share their experiences (either way). Do some drive-bys of the shops you're thinking about doing business with -- and be wary of places where you see the same cars sitting for weeks (or months) on end. This could indicate a glacially slow work pace -- or (worse) unhappy customers who've had to keep bringing their vehicle back for "service." Stroll inside the office/waiting area of shops you're looking over -- and note whether the employees are friendly (or hostile and sullen) and the cleanliness of the work areas (places that look like run-down Soviet-era machine shops may not be the best place to take your car).

* Lastly, don't passively accept being taken -- Your final bill should always be within a few dollars of the estimate; never tolerate a final repair bill that's significantly higher than what you were quoted (unless you agreed to something after the estimate was written). It's neither ethical nor (usually) legal for a shop to charge you for additional work you didn't specifically authorize. If this happens to you, move up the food chain and complain. If it's a dealer, speak with the service manager (and if that doesn't work, the owner of the store -- and from there, complain directly to the affiliated automaker, such as Ford, etc.) If it's an independent shop, try the owner. If you don't reach an acceptable understanding, head straight for your local town/city's government offices and lodge a complaint with the consumer protection department. The shop may have your car -- but you have the money -- as well as the title to the car, so it can't easily be converted into cash and is just taking up space on the shop's floorspace. The longer everything drags out, the more it costs the shop. Usually, once they understand you won't take being taken advantage of without visiting a serious hassle on them in return, they'll come to the table and resolve the issue satisfactorily. It also should go without saying that the car should be fixed. Be sure the problem you brought the thing in for is actually no longer a problem -- before you pay for the work. Ask to take a quick test drive, if need be. Remember -- so long as you've still got your money, you're still holding all the cards!

Determining the time a 12 volt battery will remain viable!

Just before your battery gives out the alternator works overtime trying to keep up the proper voltage, which can cause excessive wear and tear on the charging system. Is there a way to avoid this excessive wear and yet get the most out of the life of your battery? The answer is yes!

The Midtronics battery tester, which measures the battery’s internal resistance and can actually predict the amount of time the battery will remain viable. Before the advent of internal resistance testing, the tech would apply a heavy load on the battery, which actually shortened its life. The Midtronics tester made load testing a battery antiquated. In just seconds the Midtronics tester can measure the overall health of the battery and doesn’t stress the battery. Read more at .. http://www.midtronics.com/battery/index.html

Is Your Car Trying to Tell You Something?

People sometimes don't listen to their cars -- even when they're trying hard to tell them something important. For example:

* Underhood screeches: Your engine bay's not Abu Graib and it shouldn't sound like it, either. If you hear screeching sounds when accelerating or turning the steering wheel, your car could be telling you it needs a new belt. Or the power steering reservoir might be low. It could also be a failing water pump. Don't just turn up the radio to drown out the noise.

* Undercar sputtering: If you suddenly begin hearing sounds of this kind, you've probably got a leaking exhaust system. Usually, the sound gets more obnoxious the harder you push on the gas pedal -- and when you suddenly lift off the gas, even more so. It's important to get this checked out as quickly as possible because a leaking exhaust system can allow dangerous fumes to seep into the car's interior -- in addition to annoying your neighbors.

* "Clunking" or "Ka-thumping": If, when you put your car in Drive, you hear a fairly loud clunking or ka-thumping sound, it's not the body in your trunk -- but more than likely worn-out universal joints. Let it go forever and eventually, the joint could fail -- and the driveshaft come loose, with potentially unpleasant results.

* Strange smells: Engine coolant has a very distinctive smell -- and if you've smelled it inside your car, you could have a real mess on your hands. A not-uncommon problem on older cars is a leaking heater core -- a small, radiator-like part buried deep inside your car's guts. When it fails, it can allow hot, smelly, disgusting engine coolant to seep into the car's interior, soaking the carpet and making your life very unpleasant. Another clue: The presence of an oily/foggy film on the inside surfaces of the windshield, right near the defroster ducts. Get thee to a shop, pronto.

* The drips: Babies leave clear signs it's time to change the diaper and in the same way, your car's leavings can clue you in to developing "issues." If you notice reddish-brown drips, it's a sign you may have a leaking transmission. Green-orange suggests cooling system trouble. As for oil (heavy, molasses-to-blackish colored goo) so long as it's just a few drips, it's probably nothing to worry about. All engines eventually drip a little. But when you see more than usual -- especially anything that could be described as a "puddle" -- you should have the car checked out right away. And be sure to top off the oil level before you drive anywhere -- and watch the oil pressure gauge as you go. If the pressure drops (or, on cars with just warning lights, the light suddenly comes on) stop the engine immediately and check/add oil. If the leak is severe (or you don't have any extra oil with you) either call a tow truck or go get some oil. Just don't run the engine -- unless you won't mind paying for a new one.

* Metallic tapping/clicking: If you hear a sound like this, it could mean you're low on engine oil. If you've checked the oil level and it's fine -- but the tapping/clicking sound won't go away -- you might have an out-of-adjustment valvetrain (or perhaps a collapsed lifter on non-overhead cam engines). In either case, the underlying cause should be investigated as soon as possible to avoid further damage -- and expense.

* Someone's knocking: If you ever hear really loud knocking sounds, it could be the funeral march/last words of your four-wheeled friend. These sounds are impossible to drown out -- and signal ugly, unpleasant things things like main bearing failure. If you shut down your engine immediately, you may limit the damage. But it's probably already too late.

BP-Amoco Golden Mechanic for 2006

For the second year in a row at SEMA, the BP-Amoco Corporation has crowned a new "Golden Mechanic". Last year's winner Ryan Kooiman was the first to win the prestigious award and was on hand to pass the torch.
From June 19 to August 11,
independent mechanics could register or be nominated to compete head-to-head with other contestants, with the winner receiving $25,000.00 in cash, a one-year supply of BP-Amoco gas, and a complete Klein Tool kit. In addition the winner will be named the Amoco Ultimate spokesperson for 2007.

Damon, 43, is the shop manager and lead technician of Sant Automotive in Crestwood, MO. He is an ASE certified Master Automobile Technician, with an Advanced Level Specialist Certification (L1) in engine performance, Certified Under Car Specialist (X1) and a Gateway Clean Air Program Recognized Repair Technician.

In addition, Damon hosts a weekly automotive radio talk program on KMOX 1120 in St Louis Check out a recent program when available at http://kmox.com/pages/2659.php

For more information on the competition, visit http://www.bpgoldenmechanic.com

How to Deal With Distracted Drivers

Blamed in an estimated 4,000 to 8,000 crashes each day, distracted drivers require careful monitoring
if you're nearby.

Children should always ride in the back seat for maximum protection in the event of a crash; however, d
rivers can be easily distracted by tending to a fussing youngster.

One study found between 25 percent and 50 percent of all crashes are due to driver inattention or distraction.

This driver was caught on camera reading behind the wheel. Stay alert for erratic movements from other vehicles and steer clear of distracted drivers.

Automaker officials tout "hands free" cell phones as one solution to driver distraction. Others say that the device is not the issue: if drivers are talking while driving their attention is divided; that distraction puts them at a higher risk for a crash.

I wondered why the car in front of me on the freeway kept speeding up, then slowing down. Tired of the erratic driving, I moved out to pass. Imagine my surprise when I saw the driver was flossing her teeth while behind the steering wheel!
Sickened by the thought of what her car interior must look like and fearing she could lose control of her car at any time, I pressed pedal to the metal and got as far from this distracted driver as I could.

But I was curious whether my urge to flee was a safe and correct one. Really, what should a motorist do when a distracted driver is nearby?

Not a Simple Situation
Police, safety advocates and an official at a motorists' rights group don't provide any one rule. It all depends on the situation, they said.

"It's not dissimilar to when you encounter someone who is intoxicated, but in this case, with a distracted person, it's not—per se—illegal (as is drunken driving)," said Lt. Ray Samuels of the Newark, N.J., Police Department.

To be sure, the state of New York and a few local jurisdictions around the U.S. have passed laws that ban the use of handheld cell phones—one kind of distraction—in moving vehicles. But more widespread restrictions on cell phone use and other in-vehicle distractions—such as eating—aren't coming any time soon.

So, it's pretty much every driver for himself and herself.

Give Them Wide Berth
If there's a simple message, it is to "drive defensively," said Kathy Lusby-Treber, executive director of the Network of Employers for Traffic Safety (NETS), a Washington D.C. group.

NETS, which promotes the theme that "safe driving is a full-time job," found that nearly all drivers—94 percent—admitted to having engaged in some kind of activity that was potentially distracting, including tuning the radio, eating and tending to a child. A NETS phone survey, conducted in late summer 2001, also found that 39 percent of these activities went on while drivers were on the clock for work. The organization reports between 25 percent and 50 percent of all crashes are due to driver inattention or distraction.

"I would be aware and I'd steer clear of [the distracted driver], whatever it means," Lusby-Treber advised, adding, "I don't really encourage motorists to confront a distracted driver."

Besides, she said, "Lots of times, these people are doing more than one distracting thing."

Samuels called it "making a safety cushion around them" so if the distracted driver loses control or does something abrupt, you have an opportunity—and room—to react.

Allan Williams, chief scientist at the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety in Arlington, Va., recommended "staying alert," even for cell-phone users and other distracted drivers at intersections.

Steering clear, though, can involve different strategies, said Eric Skrum, communications director for the Waunakee, Wis.-based National Motorists Association.

"Take a look at the particular driver and the environment," he said. "If it's a single lane road and you can't get around them, slow down [and give them space]. If you're in front, definitely, get out of the way. If they're weaving through traffic and causing a dangerous situation, you must use your own judgment [to stay out of harm's way]."

And, he noted, "If someone is driving like that, you can call the police. That can be reckless driving."

Where Is the Driver's Mind?
Sgt. Al Della Fave of the New Jersey State Police has seen a lot of distracted drivers. And he says it's simplistic to blame it all on cell phones.

"Most of the time, it's not the cell phone that's the problem," Della Fave said. "It's when they start getting emotional about things and the conversation on the phone gets heated [that driving irregularities occur]."

He also noted drivers can be distracted for other reasons. "When I was on patrol in the early '80s, I found drivers reading novels, even having full-course meals spread out on the front seat," he said. "They had the special sauces right there, too. It amazed me, and it went on every other day."

More Distractions Coming
While you're trying to stay safe on the roads, lawmakers and regulators continue to study driver distraction.

Road conditions are expected to get worse, since automakers are adding more information and entertainment devices inside their newest models. Everything from navigation systems to MP3 players to movie players are potential distractions.

Yes, automaker officials tout "hands free" cell phones as one solution because they allow drivers to keep their hands on the steering wheels. But Della Fave and Samuels still urge caution. "It doesn't matter if it's hands free or a headset," Samuels said. "Drivers are still distracted."

Della Fave added: "For some reason, people don't like to dedicate time to just drive."

"The world hates change, but it is the only thing that has brought progress." - Charles Kettering

[Pictured here is Kettering with his starter invention]


Before starter motors, engines were hand-cranked. Then, in 1911 a friend of Henry Leland (who was the founder of the Cadillac) was trying to start a car for a lady and was killed from injuries caused by the starter crank flying off hitting him in the head.

Leland saw the need for a starting system that didn’t risk personal injuries, especially since so many people suffered from broken wrists and forearms when the engine timing wasn’t retarded properly and the crank handle kicked back. Leland commissioned Charles Kettering (who was head of Dayton Electric Company—which later became Delco) to invent a safer and better method of starting an engine. Within a year all Cadillac’s came standard with electric starter motors.

But you still had to stomp on a mechanical switch on the floorboard which would both engage the starter motor gear as well as provide an electrical switch to power it up. Vincent Bendix designed the starter “Bendix” and was granted a patent 1910. This is essentially the same starter design that’s used today.

Today, with the invention of super-magnets, a starter motor for a 4-cylinder engine produces 1,200 watts of power, which is equivalent to approximately 1.6 horsepower.

ultra-low-sulfur diesel- ULSD

By this fall, most of the diesel fuel available in truck stops will be ultra-low-sulfur diesel, or ULSD, with sulfur content of less than 15 parts per million. Currently available low-sulfur diesel contains up to 500 ppm sulfur, 33 times more than the new federal standard.
The super-refined fuel is designed not only to curb emissions but to prevent sulfur damage to the diesel particulate filters used on 2007 trucks.
The DPF’s( diesel particulate filters)biggest downside is the need to clean it of ash every 150,000 to 300,000 miles, depending on application. The ash is a consequence of the oil additives that protect the engine from sulfuric acid.

Drivers of pre-2007 trucks shouldn’t be overly concerned about the effects of the new fuel, Leonardi-Cattolica says. The transition to 500 ppm sulfur back in 1993 changed the fuel chemistry to a much greater degree than the upcoming introduction of ULSD, she says. ULSD will neither smell nor appear any different from any other diesel fuel.

What is happening is very similar to what happened when Unleaded gasoline replaced all leaded gasolines back in the 1970's. learn more read the article at ..

http://www.etrucker.com/apps/news/article.asp?id=54137

When The Car Doesn't Work

As I have said before, check your owner's manual to see what maintenance is needed on your vehicle
before it needs repairs. Maintenance is much cheaper than repairs. By not taking care of your vehicle
and ignoring warning signs such as pulling or drifting, noises or mysterious problems that seem to fix
themselves will result in a costly repair and leave you stuck. There are three main types of problems you
will run into.


Starting Problems.
Most starting problems are a result of a battery in poor condition. Most of the time these problems are
solved with a jump-start or battery charge. If neither of these cures gets the car started, you will need
a mechanic to look at it to determine the problem.


Moving Problems.
These are problems such as hesitation, loss of power or idle problems. An experienced mechanic is
the best person to handle these problems. Overheating could be due to low coolant level or vehicle
overloading.Turning on the A/C could help lower the temperature as well as turning the heater on high
speed and full hot. In these cases you should check and top off the coolant or lighten the load and,
if you are towing a trailer, dropping the trailer off. If this doesn't help, you will need a mechanic.
A professional mechanic should always inspect transmission problems for repair or adjustment. If you
can still drive the vehicle, drive slowly and carefully to the nearest repair shop. If it won't move at all,
call a tow truck.


Stopping Problems.
If the brakes grab, squeal, drag or don't hold, they should be checked and repaired at a repair shop.
If the problem is due to bad or worn out tires, they should be replaced before damage to other, more
expensive parts of the car, can occur.

Tips on Tires
There will be instructions on using the jack on the underside of the trunk lid or under the spare tire cover, so when changing a tire these are the first places to look. You should carry a piece of plywood
24" x 24" x 1" to place under the jack in case there is no hard surface where you get a flat tire.
Never use a brick or any kind of patio block since there is the possibility of breaking under the weight
of the vehicle. Once the vehicle is up, do not get under the car for any reason!

How to Change A Flat Tire
Changing a flat is something you should practice before you get a flat. This is something that should
be done by everyone who drives the vehicle, Mom, Dad, Son, or Daughter. Pull off the road as far and as
safely as possible. Park on a hard level surface if at all possible, even if it means driving into a nearby
parking lot. Turn on your four way flashers. Chock one front and one rear wheel. Place an automatic
transmission into PARK or a manual transmission into REVERSE. You should have wheel chocks, a lug
wrench, rubber hammer, penetrating oil and, of course, the jack in your trunk.If your vehicle has hubcaps, use the screwdriver or the end of the jack handle to pry it off. Some hubcaps have a lock in the center that needs a special key to remove. In most vehicles it is attached to, or near, the jack or jack handle.
On some vehicles it is in the glove compartment. Make sure you know where it is before you need it.
Crack the lug nuts loose before you jack up the vehicle so you don't knock the vehicle off the jack.
Put your foot on the lug wrench and turn the lug nuts counterclockwise. Remember, righty tighty
lefty loosey.Some lug nuts have a left-handed thread. Look on the end of the wheel stud and if you see
an "L", it is a left-handed thread. In that case you would turn the lug wrench clockwise to remove them.
Use the penetrating oil on the lug nuts and wait a few minutes to make getting them off easier,
especially if they are rusted.

Scissor jacks will have a pad, slot or protrusion that they fit into; bumper jacks will fit into a slot in the
bumper. Actually, I haven't seen a bumper jack in years but a lot of older vehicles will have them.
Place the jack in the position shown in the owner's manual. Some vehicles have detailed instructions
with diagrams. Jack up the vehicle until the wheel is about an inch off the ground. Now remove all the
lug nuts and slide the tire off.Position the spare in the wheel well and line up the holes in the spare
with the wheel studs and place the tire on the vehicle. Most spare tires on passenger cars are of the
"Space Saver" type. These tires are for temporary use only and you should not exceed the maximum
speed prominently marked on the tire, usually 50 miles per hour. Have the original tire repaired or
replaced as soon as possible.Install the lug nuts and tighten them by hand, then a ¼ turn with the
lug wrench. Don't tighten them completely just yet. Lower the vehicle and remove the jack. In a
crisscross pattern, tighten the lug nuts in this order. Be careful not to over tighten them or they may
break off. Another ½ turn is tight usually enough.

If it is a full size spare, replace the hubcap being careful the valve stem goes through the hole provided
for it in the hubcap. Use the rubber mallet to tap the hubcap on or hit it hard with the heel of your hand.
Check it by tugging on it to make sure it is on tightly.
If the tire has a slow leak, you can use a can of flat fixer to temporarily repair it. Just follow the directions on the can carefully. Drive to the next service station and have it repaired as soon as possible.
Be sure to tell the attendant that the tire contains an aerosol flat-tire fixer so he can take the proper
precautions when repairing it.

Low air pressure and worn tires can make squealing noises, mostly when turning. Check the tire
pressures and replace worn out tires. Low air pressure, bad front-end parts or the front end being out
of alignment will cause rapid tire wear. Check and correct the tire pressures. If they are okay,
take it to a repair shop and have the front end and wheel alignment checked.

A few things can cause a tire wobble. Always first, check the tire pressures, lug nuts or bad tires.
Correct the problem if one of these problems is found. Missing wheel weights, bent rims, worn steering
linkage or misalignment can also cause a wheel wobble. Have the car repaired by a mechanic if you
can't fix it yourself.

Other Problems
If there is any steam, fluids, smells or smoke coming from your car, other than the normal cold morning
steam from the tail pipe, catalytic converter smell or diesel engine smell, someone with repair experience or a professional mechanic should check the car. Any problems found should be repaired as soon as possible.
Any strange noises such as hissing, clunking, squealing, clicking or whirring coming from the front, rear
or from the engine should be investigated and repaired by a mechanic if it is not something you can
do yourself.
Most windshield wiper problems are due to a burnt fuse or worn out wiper blades. If you find the problem
is elsewhere, you should have a mechanic repair it before it rains again.

If you have lights, headlights high and low beam, turn signals, tail lights, emergency flashers etc.,
that don't work or stay on all the time the first thing to do is check the fuse and bulbs. Other than
that the problem may be bad wiring or bad switches. Have a mechanic look at it and repair the problem.

Video-Dangers of refueling your automobile!

This is a surveillance camera view of an actual incident. Notice the victim returns to her car during the refueling process. She appears to pull her hair back as she exits the vehicle. As she returns to the gas pump, a fire is sparked as she reaches for the nozzle. See for yourself, watch the video at ...

http://www.pei.org/static/static.avi


You should know that..

* Static electricity can be generated by many different sources. There are documented fires caused by plastic gas cans, nylon windbreakers and, possibly most dangerous of all, human nature. We found a common thread in a substantial number of these accidents: the victims got back in their cars.

* Cell phones have been cited as the cause in e-mails circulating on the Internet. So far the PEI.org has not been unable to document any incidents that were sparked by a cellular telephone. In fact, many researchers have tried to ignite fuel vapors with a cell phone and failed. PEI still recommends not using any electronic device that might distract the motorist during the refueling process.

* If you must re-enter your vehicle during refueling, be sure to discharge any static that may have built up before reaching for the nozzle. Static may be safely discharged by touching a metal part of the vehicle, such as the vehicle door, or some other metal surface, away from the nozzle, with a bare hand.Read more at http://www.pei.org/news/static.htm

Making Emergency Stops

In an emergency situation, there is no time to think, ask questions or RTFM. You will need to immediately
know what to do. Hopefully you may gain that knowledge by reading these emergency methods that are
listed below.


You're driving down the road when one of your front tires blows out. Do NOT slam on the brakes.
Apply gentle even pressure, as if you were coming to a stop sign, to the brakes. Then slowly pull
off the road on a hard, level surface if at all possible.

As Harry Chapin said in one of his songs "The pedal floored easily, without a sound..." You lost your brakes. If there is time, try to pump the brake pedal to get, at the very least, some brakes back.
If there is no time, apply the parking brake firmly but slowly. You do not want the wheels to lock up.


Another way to slow down is to down shift from DRIVE to SECOND to FIRST. You can also shift it into
reverse. A transmission is a small price to pay to save your life and the lives of your kids in the back seat.
Do not try to shift into PARK; it just won't go unless the vehicle is stopped.

If all else fails, try sideswiping signposts, guard rails or trees and bushes to slow down. Be careful to
not make a direct hit, which will probably cause injury or death.

It's night and you are on one of the many unlit roads that are common in this country. Suddenly the
lights go out and it is pitch dark. Do NOT slam on the brakes. Turn the hazard lights or turn signals on.
Even those small lights will help you see where you're going. At the same time step on the brakes slowly
and pull off the road. Don't panic, there will be plenty of time for that later.
You have lots of time and space in which to come to a safe and complete stop, unless you are on a
hairpin curve on the side of a mountain. Then you should place your head between your knees as far
as it will go and kiss your *** goodbye.

You are driving down Broadway in Manhattan and your steering locks up or goes out. Now, what is it we
don't do? That's right. Do NOT slam on the brakes because the vehicle will probably swerve out of
control. Apply the brakes slowly. Flip on the hazard flashers, blow your horn and wave your left arm
frantically out of the window to warn other drivers. Get off the road as soon as possible.

You need to come to a stop and your accelerator sticks. This is an easy one. Shut off the engine and
shift into NEUTRAL. You'll lose power steering and power brakes, so turning and stopping will be more
difficult. Once you have stopped and are safely on the side of the road, you can try to fix the problem
if you can.Try lifting the gas pedal with your hand or foot. Sometimes a stuck pedal is as simple as a
floor mat that slid forward and is jamming the gas pedal. A lot of times a stuck pedal is caused by
broken springs or binding linkages. If you can't find and repair the problem, no not drive the car.
Call a tow truck and have your vehicle taken to the repair shop.

You're driving down an L.A. freeway and suddenly the hood flies up. Again, what is it we don't do?
We do NOT slam on the brakes. Are you detecting a pattern here? Look down and through the space
between the hood the cowl of stick your head out the window to see where you are going. Apply the
brakes slowly, use your signals and get to the side of the road as far as possible.
Take a look at the hood latch. It's probably broken. If you can't tie it down with a necktie, belt or brassiere, call a tow truck and have it taken to the repair shop.

You're driving down a road in Chappaquiddick and as you cross over a bridge, you've had a little too
much to drink and run over the side of the bridge into the deep water below. What do you do? If your
vehicle is equipped with power windows, open them immediately and hold on to the steering wheel or
whatever is handy as tightly as you can.Once the vehicle is filled with water you can swim out the window.
I have power windows in my cars and I keep a special hammer/seat belt cutter in both of them just in case I can't get the power window to work. When you hit the door glass it will shatter the glass. If you can't get the seat belt to unfasten you can use the cutter to cut the belt.
Don't try to use the hammer on the windshield because the windshield consists of laninated layers of glass and will not shatter.You can purchase this tool at your local auto parts store.
If you have manually operated windows wait until the vehicle is almost filled with water then open the
window and swim out. Don't panic, there is enough air in the vehicle for you to breathe. Don't waste
time trying to open the door; the water pressure will hold them shut tightly. The window is the best
way to escape.

You are driving down the road and you realize your vehicle is on fire. Don't panic, just pull over to the
side of the road immediately and get out of the vehicle. If it is a small fire you might be able to put it
out with dirt, a coat or blanket. Never use water to put out a vehicle fire. If it is an oil or gasoiline fire all
that would do is spread it. If it is a fuel system fire, get as far away as possible, at least 500 or 600 feet
since there is a distinct possibility the vehicle will explode. Then call your insurance agent because he
has said that you are in good hands with him.

You see a car jump the median and headed straight for you. You realize he is going to hit you head on.
If you don't have your seat belts on, lay down across the front seats or on the floor. The idea is to get
as far below the windshield and windows as possible. If you have your seat belts on and have an airbag,
you have to do the hardest thing in the world at that point. RELAX!!
Tensing and tightening up will greatly increase the chance of serious injury. Ever wonder why so many
drunk drivers hurt others and never themselves? It's because the alcohol has relaxed them so much
they are practically limp. Don't worry, the seat belts and air bag will do their job and protect you.

This is something that has happened to most of us at one time or another, a bee flies into the car.
Just slow down and pull off to the side of the road. Don't panic and slam on the brakes. That could cause
the car in back of you to run into you. With a bee in the car the worse thing that could happen is you get
stung. That's a lot better than wrecking a car.

Your windows suddenly fog up. If they are fogged up on the outside, turn on your windshield wipers.
If it's inside, wipe the window with a napkin or your hand. Brake gently and pull off the road. Turn on
the defroster and A/C and wait until the windshield clears and you can safely continue driving. If it
doesn't clear, you probably have a leaking heater core and it's time to call a tow truck.

You are driving home from visiting your parents and all of a sudden you are going sideways. You are
skidding on black ice. Do NOT slam on the brakes! In fact, do not use the brakes at all!! Just take your
foot off the gas pedal and steer into the direction you want the vehicle to go. That, and praying, is just
about all you can do until you regain control of the vehicle.

You are distracted for a moment and your wheels fall into a low or soft shoulder. Don't fight the road,
brake gently and let the vehicle slow down and then turn the car back onto the road. Jerking the
steering wheel can cause the vehicle to skid out of control.

Your engine dies while you are driving. Shift into neutral. Brake gently and coast to the side of the road.
You'll lose power steering and power brakes, so turning and stopping will be more difficult.

And no matter where you are or where you are going, wear your seat belts! That's the best thing to have
on in an emergency.

Green Diamond Tires- Traction from diamond-hard silicon carbide granules

In 1995 New Industries Ltd developed a highly sophisticated technique for mixing hard silicon carbide granules into the material compound of a tire tread.



The high standards of performance of Green Diamond Tires are based on the thousands of small sharp-edged granules making firm contact with the icy road surfaces, giving them superior traction without the hammering and damaging effect of studded tires. The granules are distributed evenly throughout the rubber. This infusion of the granules throughout the tire’s wear surface ensures that as the tire wears down and granules are worn away, new ones are uncovered. For more information see..

http://www.greendiamondtire.com


Comments: Not a terrible expensive tire for what it does. Perhaps better suited for the real cold snowy and icy climates.

Warranties -

There are two types of warranties that come with a new car -- the standard (and so-called "bumper-to-bumper") warranty and the powertrain warranty.
The standard warranty is like a comprehensive insurance policy and covers the entire vehicle and its systems -- everything from the paint to the lug nuts -- with the exception of normal wear and tear items such as brake pads, filters and fluids and so on. (There are also exceptions in most cases for damage or problems attributable to "abuse" -- which can be defined as failing to have the vehicle serviced and maintained per the factory recommendations.)
The powertrain warranty typically lasts longer -- but its coverage extends only to the engine, transmission and drive axle. A major engine failure would be covered -- but peeling paint would be your problem.
Surprisingly, the vehicles with the best standard warranties aren't necessarily Japanese imports. While the mainline Japanese brands (Honda and Toyota) enjoy a reputation for better-than-average quality, the standard warranties on their 2007 model year vehicles are only good for three years and 36,000 miles. General Motors now offers a standard four year/50,000 mile warranty on all Buick, Cadillac, Saab and Hummer models -- matching BMW, Volvo and Mercedes-Benz. GM has also introduced a 5-year/100,000 mile powertrain warranty, surpassing the coverage offered by BMW, Mercedes and Volvo -- all of which offer four year/50,000 mile powertrain warranties in addition to their standard warranties.
Honda's powertrain coverage extends to five years/60,000 miles -- while Toyota's is slightly less generous at five years and 50,000 miles. (Hybrid vehicles like the Civic hybrid typically have additional/separate warranty coverage on their hybrid-specific components; in the case of the hybrid Civic, this extra coverage is good for eight years and 80,000 miles.)
The Korean automakers -- Hyundai and Kia -- continue to offer some of the best standard and powertrain warranties in the industry. New 2007 model year Kias, for example, come with five-year/60,000 mile standard warranties -- and 10-year/100,000 mile powertrain coverage. Hyundai cars come with the same 5/50k and 10/100k coverage as well.
Ford and Chrysler remain near the bottom in terms of the generosity of their warranty coverage. Their standard warranties are good for just three years and 36,000 miles -- although Ford's recently upgraded five-year/60,000 mile powertrain coverage (six years and 60,000 miles for Lincoln models) is better than Chrysler's minimalist three-year/36,000 mile powertrain coverage -- scaled back from the previous seven-year/70,000 mile deal that had been offered until last year as inducement to attract buyers.
Several manufacturers also offer free roadside assistance, in addition to their standard and powertrain warranties. In the case of makes/models with skimpy warranty coverage -- and all that implies about the manufacturer's confidence in the long-term durability of its vehicles -- having access to a tow service might be some comfort.
For vehicles not backed-up with long-lived warranties, you might want to give thought to purchasing an extended warranty, if available. You may even be able to negotiate for the inclusion of its cost in the final purchase price of the vehicle.
An extended warranty can pay for itself very quickly -- and sometimes, many times over -- if you happen to buy a car that ends up needing a new transmission, rebuilt engine or other big ticket repair.
And the peace of mind is priceless.

New Poll Suggests 85 Percent of Motorists Do Not Know How to Check Tire Pressure

National Tire Check Day this year is on Oct. 20, 2006. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) statistics show one in every three cars has a significantly under inflated tire. Did you know..

Only 15 percent of drivers properly check their tire pressure including checking the pressure at least once a month when the tires are cold, and inflating them to the vehicle manufacturer's recommended pressure.

26 percent of drivers mistakenly believe the best time to check their tires is when they are warm after being driven several miles.

Only 36 percent of drivers know where to find the recommended tire pressure for their vehicle. It is in the owner's manual, and also usually printed on a tire information decal attached to the driver's door jamb.

55 percent of drivers mistakenly believe the inflation pressure
molded into the tire sidewall is the recommendation for their vehicle.

Only 34 percent of drivers know how to tell if their tires are bald.
Four out of five drivers do not know that the rear axle is the proper mounting position when replacing only two tires.

Read the full story at http://biz.yahoo.com/bw/061020/20061020005157.html?.v=1

Then if your in the market for a Tire Pressure Gauge, check out the The ValveLock Tire Pressure Gauge pictured below.



It's only available on the web at
http://www.valvelock.net/ It's one of the best tire gauges around!

Tools for the do it yourselfers (DIY)

Whether on the road or at home, you need to be equipped with some basic survival items and tools that can make driving and living with your car easier, safer and more convenient. Here are some suggestions as a starting place, divided into two categories: Emergency Road Kit and Basic Maintenance Tools. You can customize the list according to your needs and your ambitions.

Emergency Road Kit
• Jumper cables
• Cellular phone, charger power cord, along with a list of emergency numbers
• Ice scraper and snow brush (winter months)
• Flashlight or spotlight with extra set of batteries
• Rain suit or poncho (brightly-colored)
• Safety goggles or glasses
• Pair of disposable work “coveralls”
• Emergency flares, warning triangle or cones
• Fire extinguisher
• First-aid kit
• Hose-patch kit for emergency mending of coolant hoses. These kits are usually available at auto parts and discount stores.
• Pressurized can of tire inflator and sealer for emergency filling of a flat tire.
• Battery-powered air compressor
• Bottled water and snacks, such as crackers or energy bars (in sub-freezing temperatures, remember that bottles may burst if they freeze).
• Blankets
• Roll of duct tape
• Wheel chocks (placed under the wheels to prevent the car from rolling)
• Basic tool set including an adjustable wrench, pliers, screwdrivers, and wrenches. Many auto parts and retail establishments sell compact “tool kits”, perfect for storage in the trunk of your car.
• Mini shovel (winter months)
• Bag or container of sand for traction (winter months)
• An extra pair of gloves, a scarf and hat
• Extra windshield washer fluid that can be used in cold weather driving.
• Funnel for pouring liquids
• Extra fuses (refer to your owner’s manual to determine amperage sizes needed)
• Mechanical or elastic tie-down straps
• Roll of heavy-duty paper towels or rags
• Pair of work gloves

Basic Maintenance Tools:
• Oil filter wrench (there are different types, including cap wrenches and strap wrenches). You will have to decide which provides best grip of the filter, based on accessibility.
• Catch pan (for capturing used oil and coolant)
• 3/8” basic socket wrench set, including sockets (SAE and metric sizes) ratchets, extensions, adapters, and 5/8” and 13/16” spark-plug sockets
• Torx? sockets or bits
• Combination wrench set (SAE and metric sizes)
• Hex-key wrench set (commonly referred to as Allen? wrenches)
• Flare-nut fitting wrenches (most commonly used to help prevent the rounding-off of brake line fittings and bleeder fittings)
• Fender cover (to protect the finish of your car while working under the hood)
• Basic screwdriver set
• Test light (for checking the availability of voltage and ground in circuits)
• Multimeter (a more advanced electrical checking tool that provides readings of voltage, ohms, amps and sometimes more)
• Slip-joint, groove-joint, needle-nose, and locking pliers
• Torque wrench (a wrench that indicates the “tightness” of nuts and bolts)
• Air pressure gauge
• Radiator hydrometer
• Penetrating oil (used to help free and lubricate seized or frozen fasteners)
• Soldering gun & solder
• Electrical pliers
• Jack stands
• Ramps
• Hydraulic Jack
• Battery charger

Getting better traction in the snow

When it snows many drivers let air out of their tires assuming they’ll get better traction. Don’t do it because with modern tires this will usually lead to less, not more traction. You may also feel that adding weight over the rear wheels will increase traction. This one is true however never use solid items such as concrete blocks, bricks, or heavy pieces of metal. Even a minor fender bender or bumping a curb could cause heavy, solid items to come crashing through the rear seat leading to severe injuries. If you’re going to add weight it should be sand in soft bags placed low in the trunk. The bags that contain the sand must be light enough that during a crash they break open rather than permit the weight of the sand to propel them into the passenger compartment.

Windshield Repair Will Save You Big Money Over Replacement

Most people have no idea that cracks, chips and scratches in windshield glass can be repaired and restored to new again at a huge savings over replacement. It is a proven fact that windshield scratches, nicks and chips can cause added glare and increase or add blind spots while driving. A windshield must be free of any imperfections caused by road debris as it will greatly impede vision and driver safety. Many windshield problems like cracks, scratches and nicks can easily be fixed or repaired without replacement.
Windshield repair was started as a sideline business and has grown into a nationwide aftermarket and additional service. It can be found at almost every used car dealership. There are outside crews that provide services like windshield repair, scratch and paint, headlight repair and restoration and paintless dent removal. All you have to do is ask a used car salesperson or the used car manager about it. If they don't have someone there ask whom they would recommend. All used car dealers use windshield repair instead of replacement, especially since the average windshield replacement is now over $400 and the average windshield repair is only around $25.
Windshield repair may even be free as your insurance company may wave the deductible if you go with a repair instead of a replacement. It saves them lots of money and it improves your driving safety. A windshield repair when professionally done is just as safe as a new or replaced windshield. It also looks a million times better.
Basically a windshield repair squeezes acrylic resin into the blemish by a vacuum that seals out air and moisture. It is then exposed to UV light which hardens the resin and it dries to a crystal clear. When properly done most repairs cannot even be seen by a trained eye and it will stop the spreading or worsening that usually occurs with most cracks. Most small blemishes like nicks, scratches, and cracks can be repaired. Long or spidered cracks that can cover the whole windshield cannot be economically fixed and the integrity of the windshield glass is gone so repair would be futile. A trained windshield repair technician could easily tell you if your windshield is repairable or not.
Scratches are a little different. They will use a glass polishing kit which is made only for glass. This will grind the glass level to the bottom of the scratch and then through different grades of glass polish optical clarity will be brought back. As a final step the best detailers will wax the glass for you. This, when properly done, will have a better effect at removing water and rain then advertised window treatments and it lasts ten times longer (waxing the glass also stops squeaky windshield wipers).
Windshield repair should be professionally done and is beyond the scope of most weekend home repair jobs. Due to its effect on your vision and driving safety and being that the price is only around $25 it is best to see a technician trained in windshield repair.

Video of a fuel saving product that just might work!

Here is a video of a fuel saving product that just might work. Your mileage will vary, but there is some of truth that a cleaner engine just might give you that extra MPG that you have been looking for!

http://www.bgprod.com/fuelstory/fuelstory.swf

Solving Some Electrical Problems

Electric problems in cars can be among the most frustrating and expensive to diagnose and repair. But if you have access to a multimeter/voltmeter and rudimentary underhood knowledge, you might be able to diagnose-or even fix-these five common problems before you bring the car to a mechanic:

Blown fuse(s). If one particular accessory, set of lights, or convenience in your vehicle stops functioning altogether, a fuse has probably been triggered. Fuses are simple to diagnose, find, and replace yourself. Just look in your owner's manual for the location of the fuse panel (your car might have more than one), and the location of the particular fuse for the failed accessory. Using a fuse puller (it looks like small plastic tweezers), slowly and evenly pull the fuse out of the board and hold it up to the light. If the strand of metal that passes through the middle is broken, then the fuse needs to be replaced. Make sure you replace the fuse with one of an identical amp rating (usually color-coded and listed on the outside with an amp rating). If the fuse blows again, then you know there is another problem. Fuses are inexpensive. Auto parts shops sell 'variety packs' of various popular fuse sizes-a good idea to keep in your emergency roadside kit.

Dead battery, or bad battery terminals. Auto batteries can fail without warning, if they've been in service for two years or more or if they're defective. If you have no juice, make sure your battery terminals are tightened and clean of corrosion. If they're not, then that might be the cause. If they are snug and clean, use your voltmeter to check the battery by touching the meter's probes to the battery's plus and minus posts, scratching slightly to ensure a good connection. With the engine and ignition off, if the voltmeter reads between 10 and 12 volts, then the battery is good (9-9.5 is barely acceptable). Now that you know the battery is good, go back and measure the voltage at the terminal clamps, and then again with the positive probe touching the positive terminal clamp and the negative probe touching the bare metal or frame member that the ground wire (narrower black wire) leads to. If all of these tests measure near the same voltage, then you can rule out the terminals, too.

Alternator. A newer battery that won't keep a charge, the dimming of headlights, or stalling at stoplights are all signs of an alternator that is about to fail completely. If you suspect that your charging system is giving out, test it for certain by touching the probes of your voltmeter to the plus and minus terminal clamps when the engine is running. If it registers between 12.8 and 14.7 volts, this is usually considered within the normal range and your charging system is fine. If the voltage is too low, try the voltage at the alternator output terminals, and if it measures as low, then your alternator likely needs replacement.

Fusible link. A fusible link is a higher-capacity connector that protects accessories wired directly from the battery, including the starter. Fusible links can either fail gradually or suddenly, depending on the cause. Sluggish electrical accessories, an unusual pause before the starter turns, and odd behavior of accessories plugged into the power socket are all symptoms of a failing fusible link. If the electrical system is completely dead, the battery cables are tight, and jump-starting does absolutely nothing, then the fusible link has likely failed or been triggered. For replacement, get a proper repair manual for your car or take it to your mechanic. Fusible links can be significantly more expensive than fuses, so check all major electrical connections to see if there's an obvious problem before installing another one. People sometimes cause fusible links to fail by jump-starting a car with the clamps reversed.

Faulty switch. Test the switch that has failed in all possible positions, to see if the accessory works at all, or to test for loose connections or shorts. Particular switches, such as those for headlights, sometimes have built-in circuit breakers. Consult with your owner's manual or shop manual on how to reset the breaker.

Headlamp bulbs need periodic replacement

The days are getting shorter and you will be using your headlights a lot more so did you know that headlamp bulbs need periodic replacement?


New>




Contrary to popular belief headlamp bulbs lose their brightness over time. Just because a headlamp bulb lights doesn't mean it's good! As a matter of fact you could be driving with far less light than when your bulbs were new. A headlamp bulb can lose as much as fifty percent of its intensity in as little as three years. To be really safe this winter replace your headlamp bulbs if they are three years old or older

Winter wiper blades, What's so good about them!

Do you have winter wiper blades? If you don’t you should! Winter wiper blades can give you a much clearer view when it snows and good vision means a safer trip whether it’s to the corner store or cross country. Winter wiper blades have a thin rubber membrane that covers the metal frame of the blade. The rubber flexes as the blades move across the windshield causing ice and snow to fall off rather than collect inside the blade. This helps keep the blade edge firmly against the glass leaving a clean path on the glass

Use white lithium grease to prevent wear and frozen doors

Applying white lithium grease to hinges and latches helps prevent wear and frozen doors. As the weather turns colder moisture will enter the door, hood, and trunk latches and hinges on your car. If the weather is cold enough the water freezes causing the door, hood, or trunk to be difficult or sometimes impossible to open. Also freezing water expands with amazing force. The expansion of water as it turns to ice is strong enough to bend or break steel. White lithium grease prevents water intrusion and the problems that go with it. Spray hinges and latches before the cold weather arrives.

What Is The Difference Between Synthetic Oil And Conventional Motor Oil?

Motor oil is designed to serve many different purposes within a cars engine. While the primary function is to simply lubricate all the moving parts and provide protection from wear and corrosion, it also is intended to keep the engine cool and free from small pieces of debris. Conventional motor oils are made from crude oil which has been pumped from the ground and then processed in a refinery to create a base oil. Additives are then mixed into the base oil to change the viscosity, protection properties and heat breakdown levels of the oil. Synthetic oil is also created in a similar manner to a conventional engine oil, using a base oil combined with a series of additives. The difference lies in the fact that synthetic motor oils are created utilizing a specially "synthesized" base oil where the size of the oil molecules are all of an ideal weight and of a consistent size. While a conventional motor oil, despite the refining processes, is made up of different molecule sizes which are mixed together, along with various waxes and impurities, a fully synthetic oil is made to provide a much purer base oil, with less waxes and with a uniform ideal particle size to help increase the oils viscosity level. Added to this ideal base oil is a combination of more technically sophisticated additives than are used with the conventional oils. The additives which are used in the production of synthetic oils can help to create an extremely stable engine oil which will sustain the correct viscosity levels across a large range of temperatures and which will flow properly at lower temperatures when compared against conventional oils. Additional friction inhibitors which are activated at lower temperatures than those of conventional oils, are generally included in synthetic motor oils, to provide improved protection for the engine from the moment of start-up. This means that the synthetic oil is designed with improved lubricate properties and enhanced viscosity to provide superior protection from engine wear, reduced heat breakdown volatility for decreased oil consumption, improved fuel mileage, easier engine cold starting and a reduction in engine deposits. When deciding whether it is best to use synthetic or conventional car engine oils, it is always best to bear in mind the age of the vehicle as problems and oil leaks can occur when switching to a fully synthetic oil with an old engine. This is because there can be a build-up of waxes and sludge left by conventional oils over time, which may mask worn engine seals. The introduction of a synthetic oil may cause the detergents in the synthetic oil to break down and clean-up this protective build-up which is maintaining the seal, this will then result in oil leaking through the engine seals when the oil thins as it gets hot. Semi-synthetic oils are an alternative to buying a pure synthetic oil. These combine a certain quantity of synthetic base oil with a conventional base oil in order to provide a high quality oil which can be used to gain some of the protection benefits of a fully synthetic for slightly older vehicles. However semi-synthetic engine oils do not typically include all the synthetic oil's advanced additives. Whilst older vehicles are frequently better using conventional oils due to the engine seals, new cars which experience normal day-to-day use with its short journeys, traffic jams, extreme temperature changes, etc, can benefit from the extra protection of afforded by synthetics, but it is always safest to refer to the manufacturer's recommendations before making any changes.

Top Tips On How To Get The Best Shine From Your Car

We all love that brilliant shine of a new car in the dealer's showroom or at an auto show. There are hundreds of car care products and treatments available. The question is what works best and how do you do it? First, you must properly clean and wash your car. Polishing and waxing a unclean car is sure to leave hairline scratches from dirt and debris on the car. Proper car washing and cleaning should be a main staple of any car care regimen or treatment. It is a proven fact that cars that receive routine car washes will last longer (as evidenced in a recent Popular Mechanics magazine). To properly wash your car, first rinse it off. Get the whole car wet and try to spray off any loose dirt and debris. Then use specific car wash soap (regular household items and chemicals are usually too harsh and can strip the wax or sealant right off) and a soft sponge or towel. Wash one panel or area at a time and rinse when done so the suds and soap won't dry on the paint. When done dry off the car with clean terry towels or microfiber towels (a chamois works great also). Next, examine your car. Look at the bumpers, behind the tires, the roof, etc... Are there any contaminants like bug splatter, bird droppings, tree sap, etc... that are still there after washing? You can try and rewash these areas with a little more pressure to try and loosen them up. If they still don't come off, you will need a contaminant remover. This is a spray and each has their own unique formula and set of directions. Some are similar to foaming glass cleaners and others are a thick emulsion that will sit right on the problem area and not drip off. These contaminant sprays will remove most stuck on road debris and there are formulas specifically for road tar and tree sap as they can be more difficult. Follow the directions and then rinse and dry. To smooth out any imperfections in the paint we recommend a cleaner wax. According to a study by Consumer Reports of every wax currently produced it was found that Turtle Wax was the best for value, durability and shine. So, there is no need to waste your money on expensive treatments that will not deliver a finish as well as a $2 bottle of Turtle Wax. Apply the cleaner wax in small circular motions and do one panel at a time, same as you did with car washing. Let the cleaner wax dry to a white haze and then buff with a clean terry cloth. Repeat as necessary. Next, what we recommend is that you use a polymer car polish (again, there is no need for expensive treatments - you are just wasting your money). A good polymer car polish can be obtained at Walmart for between $2 and $5. They always come as a liquid and are very easy to apply and really do last longer than any car wax (up to 1 year and 50 car washes as some labels state). Apply to the whole car and buff dry. Apply 2-3 coats for maximum protection. After the car polish we recommend a high class carnauba wax (again there is no need for expensive treatments). Turtle wax platinum car wax is around $5-$7 and so are some Meguiars and Mothers top waxes. This will give you a better than new deep and wet looking shine. Apply 2 coats in similar fashion to the cleaner wax. Wait until you see the resultant shine from wax on top of polish. It is unbelievable and gives your car the best shine possible and also the maximum protection available. This is how they get that extra deep shine on cars at the auto shows - it works and you will be amazed.

Restoring plastic headlight lenses to like new!

You know it’s important to be able to see and be seen but that isn’t always as easy as it sounds. Over the years cars have adopted plastic headlamps that blend with the car’s styling. They look great but after a few years their plastic lens becomes hazy and scratched. This reduces light output making night driving hazardous. Rather than spend big bucks to replace your headlamps use convertible top plastic window cleaner to polish away the haze and scratches. There are also special products like the one shown on the left which can Improve the clarity of cloudy headlights. Some vehicles have lens covers for improved driving safety! Most vehicles now have a protective, transparent, plastic lens covering the headlights. These lenses protect expensive lamps from flying stones and road debris but will discolor over time. When these lenses become opaque and cloudy, they severely restrict the amount of light reaching the road which makes night driving dangerous. This clouding is caused by accumulated exposure to ultraviolet light. If you live in a southern state, this discoloration can become noticeable in as little as 2 years. By using these products often(be sure to follow instructions on each indivual product for frequency of application)you will keep your headlight lenses from turning opaque!

Oil Change Outrage-Video

The clip from LOS ANGELES, where there was an undercover investigation. Reporter Joel Grover exposes how some of the state's biggest car repair chains could be cheating customers -- even breaking the law. As seen in this video there some well-known chains mentioned that specialize in doing quick and easy oil changes.

Just remember that what you see in this video does not represent what goes on in all oil change shops around the country, which is what the folks who did this investigation would want you to believe!
http://www.nbc4.tv/video/2620224/index.html

Note:If the above link does not load the video try this link below.
http://mfile.akamai.com/12924/wmv/vod.ibsys.com/2003/1107/2620224.200k.asx

Weekly tips- When replacing a fuel filter..

When replacing a fuel filter, pour a little fuel through the filter inlet to "pre-wet" the filter element inside. This will reduce the risk of the filter element shredding loose paper fibers into the fuel system when the pump starts up and sends fuel at full force through the filter. Some filters come with cap(s) on the end as shown in the picture which keeps the filter element from drying out before installation.

POGUE CARBURETOR-200 miles on a gallon of gasoline!

Between 1928 and 1935, Charles Nelson Pogue, an inventor from Canada, applied for numerous patents for what he claimed was a new type of carburetor that supposedly completely vaporized gasoline before introducing it to the cylinders, thereby extracting a great deal more energy from the fuel.
The Pogue carburetor was touted as getting 200+ miles to the gallon.

See the full story at http://www.snopes.com/autos/business/carburetor.asp
Also see.. http://www.mikebrownsolutions.com/fish3.htm

Virginia man wins Volvo's XC90 treasure hunt

Here is another example of what the carfixonline blog can be used for. Enjoy!

The Pirates of the Caribbean-themed Volvo XC90, that was buried as part of the automaker's treasure hunt/film tie-in, has a new owner. David Hutz, 30, of Herndon, VA, and six other finalists were flown to Abaco Island in the Bahamas, where they competed in a group of Survivor-style challenges to complete the search. David was awarded the SUV after he had determined what its ultimate location was. Thankfully for him, he didn't need to dig it up himself. Assistants handled those duties on his behalf.

The V8-powered, movie-themed Volvo is valued at $82,000 and sports 20-inch custom wheels, a full Pirates of the Caribbean graphics package, black leather seating, a quad-tip Borla exhaust system, and numerous other upgrades. After learning that he was the winner, Hutz announced that he'd be giving the car to his wife, who will undoubtedly get right to work removing its way-over-the-top pirate graphics.No need to fret for the other six finalists, when Volvo, in a surprise move, awarded each of them a new vehicle as well. Happy faces were all 'round.Volvo was likely in a good mood, seeing as the contest drew very high interest from people around the world. If you just can't get enough of the hunt, Volvo will post Webisodes documenting the competition on August 25. To see what it was all about go to..

http://thehunt.volvocars.net/us/thehunt

Diagnostic Tech 2

This is part 2 of a series.

In Diagnostic Tech 1 I began some initial tests on a Dodge Stratus that the owner said would stall occasionally and not restart for several minutes. The car did stall after running for some time but restarted immediately. I suspected the fuel system was ok because the stalling was sudden with no poor running preceding the stall. After the restart and while waiting for the next stalling event it seemed a good time to look at scan tool information. I found no codes in the OBDII system but did find the monitors had been reset and not all had been run since the reset.

cont....

With a full-function scan tool connected the module/computer information available included the engine, transmission, abs, airbag, instrument cluster and body modules. If you are wondering why I would be interested in airbag module data, for example, to diagnose a stall/no-start complaint let me explain. The modules on this car are all in constant communication, exchanging information with each other and so well done is the integration that it is actually possible for a fault in the abs module to cause the instrument cluster to malfunction even though there is nothing wrong with the instrument cluster.
A look at the engine module code information showed no stored codes but did back up the OBDII information that the computer had been recently reset. I found no other codes or clues in any of the module information. I left the scan tool connected to the car and set it to monitor sensor data. A scan tool isn't much help on an intermittent stall. Even if you have a scan tool with a record feature, the datastream information updates too slowly to be reliable for the diagnosis of the problem other than just letting you know that yes the car just died. A scan tool can be helpful on the no-start if it has graphing capability or if you have software to graph the data. In hopes that the no-start would occur with the next stall, and with the thought that graphing some key sensor data while the problem was present might help, I left the tool connected.

Example of graphed scan data:



The car stalled yet again but immediately restarted and the scan tool with graphing was of no help. Hmmmm. I had just that same day received the Waekon/Hickok Flight Recorder I had purchased previously. The idea behind the tool is that you connect it to a car with intermittent complaints exactly as my Stratus has and press a button to record data when the problem appears. It seemed a great time to combine testing a new piece of equipment with diagnosing a car problem. I can connect the tool leads to the ignition secondary, the injector pulse signal, the battery and one auxillary channel is up for grabs. I chose to place the auxillary channel on the power side of the fuel injectors. A very important relay on any Chrysler built car is the auto-shutdown which powers the fuel pump, fuel injectors and ignition coil when closed by the engine computer. A monitor of the power feed to the injectors was easy and had potential to be helpful.
The next time the car stalled I had some captured data. The flight recorder captures 30 seconds of data when the button is pressed. The data must be then uploaded to the pc. From left to right the screen grids display 5 second intervals. You can see the car stall almost 15 seconds into the frame. Actually you can see my delayed response, the car died and the recording began when I pressed the button less than a second later.



I can see from the recorded data that I lost ignition spark, injector signal AND injector power all at the same time. I've mentioned the shutdown relay, it seems more important now since the powered circuits from the relay appear to be quitting. Now, don't forget that some other culprit like fuel delivery could cause the stall and the recorder simply record the results. I've mentioned why I thought the problem wasn't in fuel delivery. In theory, this data capture confirms that. If the fuel delivery was failing then the injector pulse width should climb to compensate. You should see that happen before the stall.
It seems to be leading me to that shutdown relay. The car's engine computer will keep that relay closed as long as there is a good camshaft and/or crankshaft position sensor signal. The camshaft position sensor is easier to access for testing purposes. Both of these sensors are notorious for leaking oil and the leaked oil damaging the wiring and connectors. Both connectors and wires on this car were melted together from just that problem. I cleaned the connectors and separated the melted wiring. I still got the stalling condition.
I moved the auxillary connection on the flight recorder to the camshaft position sensor signal output.



I made the pic larger for a reason. Look closely at the camshaft position sensor signal. It not only does not drop out before the stall, it even gets a pulse after the stall. The camshaft position sensor is not a problem.

Here I connected the auxillary to the crankshaft position sensor and recorded on the next engine stall.



The crankshaft position sensor is not the problem. Like the camshaft position sensor, you can see a pulse signal from the cps after the engine stall. I see even more reason to look at the shutdown relay circuits. However, no matter how good the signals are near the cam or crank sensor connectors, the engine computer only sees those signals at it's own connector. I monitor both the camshaft and crankshaft position sensor signals at the engine module while monitoring the power feed to the fuel injectors. The car stalls yet again and both the cam and crank signals appear to have been good while the shutdown relay appeared to shut down. This time though, guess what? The car does not restart! There is no voltage output from the auto shutdown relay. It's like I said, a no-start is much easier to diagnose. There is no power from the relay because there is no ground from the computer to close the relay. With both the cam and crank signals present on the restart attempt the computer should close the relay. I have the scan tool connected and with the scan tool I should be able to command the relay closed just to find out if the computer is capable of doing so. When I attempt to do just that, I get a message from the scan tool that there is no communication with the engine computer. All the car's modules must sign in to the CCD bus when they are functional. I used my scan tool to look for the engine module in the CCD bus and it did show up as present. The car also started then.
The car died again soon after with again no re-start. Again the engine module would not communicate with the scan tool. A test of powers and grounds at the engine computer while it appeared to be dead confirmed it was a bad computer.

Diagnostic Tech 1

1999 Dodge Stratus,
Intermittent Stalling/No-start

I always first like to verify the complaint. In this case the car owner said the car would stall occasionally and not restart for several minutes. It seemed to make no difference if the car was at idle or at road speed. I decided to start by just letting the car run at idle in the shop while I spent some time on other cars and waited for the stall to occur. I don't start with a road test for a complaint like this because it's usually a lot easier to find the cause of a no-start than a stall. If it won't start the testing equipment for that will be right there in the shop. If it stalls and won't start on the road I'm not likely to have the proper tools with me for finding the problem.
After nearly an hour I heard the car stop running. I noted that the engine died suddenly. When you are the diagnostic detective every clue is important. It isn't likely to be a fuel pressure or fuel/air mixture problem if it dies quickly with no warning. Fuel pressure or control problems that cause a stall at idle will usually give you a warning. What I mean is that you will notice the engine begin to run poorly and then stall. Since the car owner said that the car would not immediately restart but would after some time had passed then the time to do some testing was now. I wanted to first see if secondary ignition spark was present since it seemed most likely to not be a fuel problem. The Stratus 2.4 designers were kind enough to make it easy to access the ignition system, the fuel injectors and the fuel pressure port. The car does have a coil and does have plug wires. It is very easy to place a simple spark tester in the end of a plug wire to watch for spark. The trouble here was that as soon as I hit start I not only had spark but the car started. The difference between a no-start diagnosis and a stall diagnosis is time to test. With an intermittent stall it only takes a signal or fault to occur for less than a second to kill the engine. A no-start problem occurs for the entire time the car won't start. I decided to let the car stall yet again and hoped the no-start would appear as well.
In the mean time a scan tool peek couldn't hurt. I didn't immediately go to a scan approach because no MIL was on and no-start testing should be more relevant once it won't start. When you are looking for scan data in any OBDII equipped automobile there are two systems to consider. The OBDII system and the OEM system share some information and hold some exclusive to themselves. I always look at both systems when looking for codes or stored data.

If you take a quick look at OBDII with most scan tools one of the first things you'll notice is if anyone has been clearing codes or "resetting" the computer. On my end, I can do the best diagnosis when all the information is available. Clearing codes or disconnecting a battery just erases information that may have helped me to make a quicker fix. The monitors will reset after such a brain deading ( I mean the car's brain/computer ) and a lot of information I could use will be lost. Coincidentally, the stored OBDII information was gone on this car.

Just to mention on this particular topic, there are two ways to access OBDII data on most full-function scan tools. Generically/Globally the scan tool will access and give you the data for that. However, if you access the OBDII system from a scan tool that allows the oem data entered then you usually will get more help from the scan tool. I'll explain. Here is an example, suppose you are wondering the conditions that must be met for a car to satisfy a monitor test for an O2 sensor heater. If you have a full-function scan tool but are entered under generic/global testing you won't get a clue from the scan tool on the criteria to meet the test. The tests were mandated but the means to test were left to the manufacturer. If you have a full function scan tool and enter OBDII after the tool knows the car data then the scan tool software should help by defining the conditions the manufacterer designed into the programming for the monitor.

Once I get the OBDII data scans done I like to look at the OEM stuff. Now when you have a full function scan tool and it is compatible with the car you are testing then you get a lot of options for further information. Most cars these days have more than one computer and it's never a bad thing to look for the information that each one has stored.

Watch for part 2,